Lately I have become semi-interested in T25 or T3 Kombis.

Can anyone point me in the direction on some FAQ's and history on these models?

Things I am interested in:
What year did they change to watercooled?
How can you tell if the Kombi started life wet or air-cooled at a glance from afar? (eg: extra grille??)
Which is better for performance, economy and longeivty - wet or air?
When did they gain a five speed box and when was the synchro launched?
Are there any parts that are particularly expensive?
Any particular problems to look out for or things to avoid?

Thanks,
Brett.

Brett,

Check out this UK site. http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forums.html

You should find all the info you need there.

Regards,

Matt.

I think it was 1984 when the watercooled brigade started and they were a 1.9 digifant. Water cooled are easily identified by having the lower grille or two front grilles.

The later T3's from around 87 had the 2.1 digifant MV engines which were a detuned version to suit out crap fuel. In Eurpoe they got the 112hp DJ engines which were higher compression and much more powerful. Still our ones seem to last longer as they dont have to deal with as big a bang all the time.

The syncro started here in 1987 (3 were imported only). They got busier after that with the syncro.

The gear boxes are fairly expensive to repair in both 2wd and 4wd.

But the watercooled are the best for longevity. I have seen an original water leaker with nearly 400,000kms still going strong although just starting to need a rebuild and that was pulling trailers with 3 tonne in them a lot of the time (hard life).

The brakes are about as crap as the bay window models they replaced but everything else is miles ahead. They ride fantastic.

When looking check for seam rust along the lower front panel next to the bumper and all other seams plus around the window seams and the gutters much like a bay.

Alos check engine for coolant leaks (if watercooled) as this could mean a water pump is required or the head gaskets are leaking along with potnetially corroded head studs. Head studs are very difficult to remove when corroded into the block and can cost a fortune to have removed. Some have been up graded to stainless.

Fuel tanks are now getting rusty so check fuel filters clogging and some leak around the filler seal.

Radiators get a bit inefficient after around 15 years of age especially as many people just use green coolant and not the G12 expensive stuff.

Many are equipped with factory power steering and are therefore very easy to drive.

Plus they are very cheap.

Cheers,

Scott

^^^ yep, my 91 has 390 000 and at 375 I replaced a cracked head, inside looked like the day it was built. I o'hauled the tranny at 380 000, other than that it just keeps working...... Warwick x 4, Sydney x 2, Portland x 1.

Factory serviced early and factory coolant is important, and believe it or not, but I believe the higher mileage the better to some degree, the low mileage ones seem to have engine corrosion issues.

Nice panel.

As you said - if serviced regularly and the coolant is correct they last for a long time.

Otherwise the engine could go at any time.

I have a 1989 Caravelle auto
They are bargain buys
I have replaced a few bits. The hoses can be expensive and hard to get. Especially the one that goes to the auto cooler.
The thermostat holder is now being reproduced

I have owned mine for 5 years and not too much trouble.
I particularly like the autos