Well,this just fell at my feet.ohhh what to do

nice............perfect for a subie conversion

hmm what to do?

umm bin all the beetles and do that one up lol.

you got an unusual one there. 72 or 73? either way both those years are uncommon and unique to Oz.


yeah suby conversion is always an option

Ohhh and its an auto.......

geeez, i said i'd never do another resto, I may be putting it up for sale. Going to have to do some thinking..........

ok ,so this may turn into a resto thread I'm still debating if I should keep it or not.

so today I started to play and pull out the engine to work out what was going on. It's always cool to find something like this inside. I will rebuild with most likely a slip fit 1641 and not go overboard on this one.
Got a few rust spots but nothing thats going to be a drama,you can't really tell in the pic but I cut n polished the fender and it came up spunky so then I sugar soaped the hoodliner (the seam that is in the centre of the pic) and it came up sweet. I cant believe the liner is in one piece, tight, no cuts after 40 odd years. I'm pretty happy with the overall car for its age and could easily get it on the road pretty quickly I reckon.

the hoodie

wth is that badge on the fender? Thats not standard!

oh yeah, keep the engine case, the auto cases are a little different. there is an opening on the back to gain access to the TC bolts.

oh no! you pulled the TC out of the auto

^^^ you're making me panic now.... i pulled the what out of the what? All i did was drag out the engine like any other and thats how it came out....
Whats with the twin clutch ?... It only had one bolt out of four on it any ways.... oh shit, now I know what you mean... I should of taken out that bolt (4bolts) while the engine was in the car and the TC would of stayed in the gearbox and easier to realign when it goes back in.........

am in in for a world of hurt?

Wow, piston blowout. What causes that?

Quote:

Originally posted by binner ^^^ you're making me panic now.... i pulled the what out of the what? All i did was drag out the engine like any other and thats how it came out.... Whats with the twin clutch ?... It only had one bolt out of four on it any ways.... oh shit, now I know what you mean... I should of taken out that bolt (4bolts) while the engine was in the car and the TC would of stayed in the gearbox and easier to realign when it goes back in......... am in in for a world of hurt?

the fuel injection script if from a vk holden! oddly i like it!

Thats what I thought it might of been off, its hard trying to remember photographic details back from around 2002

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-VK-Commodore-Electronic-Injection-Badges-Su...

Quote:

Originally posted by vlad01 Quote: Originally posted by binner ^^^ you're making me panic now.... i pulled the what out of the what? All i did was drag out the engine like any other and thats how it came out.... Whats with the twin clutch ?... It only had one bolt out of four on it any ways.... oh shit, now I know what you mean... I should of taken out that bolt (4bolts) while the engine was in the car and the TC would of stayed in the gearbox and easier to realign when it goes back in......... am in in for a world of hurt? TC = torque convertor. the impellers? what ever you call them inside the TC have splines, there are multiple separate splined parts inside and they float around and are a pain in the ass to get back on the auto, almost impossible with it still on the engine. If I recall correctly the oil pump for the auto is driven from the central spine in the TC and seen some people break the oil pump when the TC hadn't been installed correctly all the way. Engine bolted up and the oil pump broke due to the spines being misaligned or something also those lines. when installing and removing an auto, undo the flex plate to TC bolts, make a tool to keep the TC from sliding off the spines as you should be right. I found the best way to reinstall a TC is to tip the auto with the TC end facing up and drop the TC on to the input shafts jiggle and turn it and should drop in each impeller eventually one by one.

yeah you should be right once you get the TC in properly settled.

I don't have direct experience with type 3 autos but had my fair share of borg warner autos of various types, all similar, even similar to your auto since they are borg warner unit.

I had one experience with TC not in right and resulted in the bell housing breaking when bolting the engine up lol.

hey vlad01, thanks for all your info but I think I'm going to pass on restoring and sell. I really want to do other stuff with my time/money so this is going up for sale as is....

stay tuned, you will see it in for sale section soon enough.....or if anyone is keen on it pm me.

cheers,
Ian

ignore the above, its too good a vehicle to bump, so I sold a few DH bike parts and am selling a nice Triton dual cab if anyone needs one, just to help pay for a resto....

just ordered a 1641 kit, sorting out some std heads, new bearings n such......

Hey Vlad01,I just did what you said with the TC and it seems like all the splines mated, when I had the TC in I put some pressure on it and spun it and I could feel no resistance.. It spun nice and sounded smooth...when I mated the engine to the gearbox it all went in real nice and with no force..does this sound right ? Is there any way to check I've got it right?
Cheers,Ian

Edit, also this may be a dumb question (hope it isn't) but how does the trans fluid get into the TC? Is it forced in from the auto box or should it be filled up prior to installing the converter, my manuals don't really say much about it......

Ohh and there is a small black rectangle electronic device that was clamped to the coil bracket with a single black wire coming off it.....where does that wire go, I missed it when taking it off..see first picture

In the second picture
K & L are a solid blue wire then liked with a solid black ?
P is a solid white ? Ground maybe
F is solid white X 3 ground maybe
X is red and comes from the auxiliary air valve (is that what it is?)
#3 is fuel hose that connects to manifold under the connector marked FL, where does that go?


Cheers and thanks in advance. Ian

yes the TC should just spin freely. The outside of the housing is spinning but the turbine/vanes are fixed to the input shaft as it should be and they are not rotating when spun freely by hand. Those are driven by the fluid turbulence? if thats the right terminology? when the engine is running which in turn drives the gearbox and ultimately the car. Its like a fan blowing another fan.

The fluid is pumped though the TC when the engine is running. The auto had its own pump.




That black device is a noise suppression capacitor by the looks of it. Looking at the connector on the end, can't say where it went, doesn't look like a spade connector. I have an original VW one on my car so I will check where it is connected, pretty sure it was on D+ on the gen.

I think the white wires are the injector grounds? its been a long time since I last had a EFI fasty. Maybe try the samba, heaps of EFI resources there.

^^^^^^^^^ cheers mate..... Getting there slowly.

yeah the noise suppression capacitor on mine goes to D+