Hi all, i am currently in the middle of a type 4 engine conversion into my 72 auto notch, plans are either a 1911 or 2056cc engine, i am thinking of going for 1911cc which is a 66x96 combo, the main problem is the air intake bellows, i was lucky enough to score an original 412 station wagen intake duct and rubber boot, but there is a problem the type 4 engine sits to far back to use the intake duct and original type 3 boot, so after much thought and measuring i think i will get the 412 intake duct replicated out of carbon fibre for its strength and make a mould and cast new boots out of silicon using the original diameter of the type3 body and original diameter of the 412 intake duct, and hopefully if it works will then sell these to the lovely type 3 crowd if they want to do such a conversion. I am buying a new cam and lifters from Jake Raby in the US, as well as heads from him. I have already got short manifolds and the correct air filters to clear the deck. My notch has been sitting in the shed for 2 years and now the bug is back to get it going again, that and the fact i am seriously considering starting an engine overhaul shop, cant really promote my aircooled engine building skills while driving an 04 Golf gti. Here are a few pics of the eingine in place with the 412 duct. Cheers Damo.

That would be fantastic if you can get some made!
I'm sure there's plenty of people (myself included) who would love one!
There was a big discussion on this on thesamba forums a little while back, someone was going to make some but it never happened.. so theres another entire market over in the US (and probably other places too!)

there is a converted wagon in toowoomba thats a sweet looker. I'm sure i seen somewhere there is a conversion kit of some sort around. My memory fails me to where i seen it but it changed the the outer fan housing to fit type3 bellow.


Tazz

Damo how about just making an adaptor at the motor from fibreglass that bolts on to the type 4 fan screen points and just uses the standard type 3 bellows or is there not enough room between motor and body ???

Adam, there aint enough room, i fitted the type 3 boot it does fit but is severely squashed and rubs against the cooling fan and would most likely get pinched by the belt and get ripped off. Also i didn't want to risk breaking the rare 412 intake duct, i have thought this over for ages and i think a new boot is the answer, maybe even get some silicon rubber sheet and have it stitched to correct size on both ends, was even thinking kevlar cloth could do the trick, hard to get but when you work in the aircraft industry, these things become available more easily. i will solve this problem. Damo.

Sounds good and as i thought to tight for the type 3 bellow , but hay some times we all overlook the obvious in our great ideas and just my 2 cents.
Keep it quite but my name is ANDREW

Quote:

[quote Keep it quite but my name is ANDREW

Quote:

Quote: Originally posted by 66deluxe [quote Keep it quite but my name is ANDREW So it is, helps if you look at the name under the avatar sorry mate.

Yes that is off Tuna's site under t4 conversion i will take photos of the duct and the boot and you will see why a custom boot must be made, i could cut both t3 and t4 boots and glue them together but i want to make these so other people can do the conversion. Thanks Tazz, Damo.

kool. can you just get me a pic of the Type 4 boot... memory is failing me. Wondering if its easier to modify a plate to fit the type 3 hole to reduce it to type4. The plate could sit on the inside of the lip on the body giving you ample room for the rubber to flex. Sheet metal is easier to play with. Sealed up with either some pinchweld or sikaflex. Fully welded wouldnt matter because its inside the type3 hole, so the original bellow would just fit over it if you needed to do a quick engine change back to type3.


Tazz

heres one i did at the workshop for my brothers notch project
i had a 411/412 boot and adapter
but the adapter was not only too close to the body , it also seemed to point up on an angle

i sectioned the adapter , mocked up the two halves
and then fiberglassed it up on the inside/ outside
the ouside is so so looking , but the inside i made sure to shape it for flow as much as possible

sorry i dont have any before / sectioned pics
but here is the finished product , it has no clamps and works fantastic
from memory oil temps went from 115ish to 90-95 while cruising

I'm so interested in putting a Type IV engine in my square, if this part becomes available I'm another customer.

If you know a good motor trimmer that does trimming in industrial strength canvas get him to make a bellow that will fit.

Well i scored another 412 inlet duct of the samba now i have 2, one is still in the car for measuring purposes and the other is at a custom fibreglass shop i found yesterday, now the plan is to make new ducts with the original mounting points to the fan shroud and have the type 3 inlet so we can use the original type 3 boot, but this boot must be cut at the second rib to shorten it, the ducts will be made of aluminised carbon fibre so that they are super strong and high temp resistant. A silicon boot is also getting made, with aramid fibre reinforcement, hopefully should have the prototype made in two weeks, i told the fabricator that if it is successful i will get more made. I am working on custom aluminium cross bar mounts so that they are slightly longer, these attach to th engine case and so i can use a bolt on dipstick adapter that i will get from Jake Raby, the idea behind this is to lower the cross bar to allow fitment of the dipstick adapter and remove the original type 3 diptick filler. i am working on the brackets that attach the cross bar to the body. As for filling engine with oil you can just remove stock type 4 breather and fill from there. The only part they may be trouble is timing your engine, as i have a 914 fan shroud it has a screw in plug that you remove to time the engine, type 2 shrouds don't have this, still working on that one.
Timing marks are usually stamped on the bus fans as i have checked with other fans that i have.

Damo.

It's possible to make the bellows out of thick leather - you'll need to make a pattern to check the fit before cutting and sewing up the bellows into a suitable 'cone' shape to fit - if you don't like the sound of leather - rubber sheeting will also possibly work.

You'll need to use giant hose clamps / duct clamps to fit it on.

Sounds like you got it sorted Damo... cant wait to see it in the flesh.



Tazz

Well got some bad news the fibreglass guy got back to me finally and quoted $1300 for the mold and one finished product, so i said thanks but no thanks, so it looks like its back to the drawing board. Sorry.

I guess not enough market out there just yet hey?
-Staggers.

Would it be worth starting some sort of syndicate by getting those of us who are definite buyers to help fund the initial production?

That sounds expensive damo , i would geta couple of other quotes i think as i have had quotes for moulds to for my Towdster guards and they are half that and twice the size.Send me a PM with your phone number and i will put you in contact with CVD'S Glasser.
As for the timing marks why dont you use the 30mm dia hole at the top of the engine case and mark the back of the flywheel using the original guide for the degree settings then just a simple filed groove in the hole to align with when timing.

Andrew

good idea adam

Hi there I am new here, just wondering if you have you thought of moving the engine forward 2-3 inches it is not that hard and it would help gain a bit more room and also help with the weight as the t4 engine is heavier than the origional moving the the weight forward should also help the handing.

I thought about that but then i decided to use the type 4 boot that i got with the inlet duct and will push the large end into the body and then onto the inlet duct, it fits great, i have made the rear engine mount from kombi mount i just made to uprights from plate stell and two pieces of square tube steel and welded them together, i have almost started on the engine build, rods are currently being overhauled and BBC ARP wavelocks going in and balanced end to end, crankshaft is currently off beeing balanced and remaining parts are on their way from Jake Raby, I have cleaned and measured the case and it is in great condition, i am using a set of original VW main bearings in std/std size a swapmeet find for $30, the crank measured up standard on both main and rod journals, so i had it polished. Heads will be 42x36 2 litre chamber and stock plug location, 96 KB pistons, AA cylinders, RAT Valvetrain kit, twin 40 IDF webers electronic ignition in stock type4 205 dizzy or mallory unilite, custom exhaust. I have to make some steel mounts to replace the rubber ones on the engine cas mounts as the dummy engines rocks easily, the type 3 mounts to the body will be the only rubber mount then.

Cheers Damo.

Looks good Damo!!
(always in stealth mode, seldom revealing my presence :-)

Make sure you beef up the Type 3 body around where the engine bar mounts into it.

Howdy Damo, looking good mate!
Question for you, you have kept the stock kombi bar at the rear (modified of course).
Do you still have the rubbers between the bar and the case?
And will you use the stock type 3 mounts betwee nthe body and the bar??
Cheers,
Richard