Over the last week or so the Notch has developed an engine Clatter...
A couple of weeks ago the Pivot Pin in the Fuel Pump worked its way out causing no fuel. Luckily it fell onto the top of the motor and was easily retrieved.
I put it back in on the side of the road and continued on our way.
A few days later I notice the clatter on start up then faded while warming up in Neutral. In drive (Auto) under no load it got worse again then settled once under load. Travelling about 70km to Laura yesterday she ran fine but got noisy while idling along in the Parade. Fine again at highway speeds on the way home.
So today after doing the Tappets which were due I warmed up the motor and found the clatter was from near or in the Fuel Pump.
Pulled Pump off, it was ok. Went to pull Pump Rod up and it wouldn't come out. Pulled with pliers bringing up the whole guide assembly to find this...

Total length of Pushrod 98mm.
Went and pulled one out of Rusty Red the Squareback which has been donating a few parts lately. 108mm with rounded end.
Quite different.

So now I need to get a 100mm Pushrod with the correct end.
All I can guess is that someone has cut down a 108mm at some stage to replace one. The hard facing that would be on the proper end would be gone and the fuel pump spring would have helped cause the mushrooming. Anyone else ever found this?

it totally depends on the pump you have, i remember the alternator pumps having a shorter pump rod i think?
could be too much to drink

take a pic of your fuel pump first see if it alternator or generator type

According to Sept edition of Hot VW's mag, generator style pump uses a 108mm rod and alternator pump uses a 100mm rod on a Beetle motor. Don't have a Type3 so unsure whether this info is relevant

it could be that the lever inside your pump was faulty and then repaired making up 8 mm by someone then matched the rod to fit but seems to habe worn further

Dropped the 108 from my other type 3 in. Wound the engine till it was at its lowest point and could not get the fuel pump back on as the rod sat too high. Have ordered a 100mm from Mick Motors today.
Also added a bit to the 98mm rod with the MIG and have ground it and reshaped it to suit. Works well. Turns out it wasn't the cause of clattering noise though. More on that soon. Have videoed it with my phone and will work out how to post it tomorrow.
Running under load in Park we have clatter although I may need to adjust the selector as Park may be partially engaging reverse. With a few revs on (1000rpm approx) the clatter dies down.
In Neutral the idle is about 8-850rpm and no Clatter, and none when reved either.
In Drive or Reverse the engine clatters while idling (foot on brake) but dies away once under load.
Sound is prominent around Generator or perhaps fan area.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Did a bit of research last night and will check generator bearings by taking the fan belt off and then next step will be to check the fan itself.

Make sure the 3 torque convertor bolts are tight.

The alloy fan housing is held on with 4 x 6mm bolts / screws
Sometimes these come loose and get between the fan and the housing making a scratching sound they need to have a dob of locktite on the threads or the heads drill and tie wired so they don't come loose

this happened to my cars about 3 times over the years

Took the fan belt off last night and ran it. That discounts the generator as a source.
The sound seems to be more at the fan end or possibly number 4 cylinder. Will check the torque converter bolts on the weekend. Next after that will be the fan.
Next possibility is piston slap,but will cross that bridge once I've discounted other possible faults.

Checked the Torque converter bolts last night Gary, all ok. Cheers

Sorry about bouncing here and KC Grumble. The drill and cut worked on the bad exhaust stud nuts got 2 almost off before they snapped, 2 by working them back and forth and cut the nuts on the 2 worst one. Going to put new studs and gaskets in anyway since they're off.
Fan is exposed and looks ok. As its an auto I don't have the means to restrain the crank shaft pulley to crack the 30mm bolt to get at the fan (Have checked the Hayne's - "The crankshaft can be locked by jamming a screwdriver in the fly wheel teeth."), or a torque wrench to put it back on. (Pretty sure my torque wrench is at my folks place over 200km away!)
There doesn't seem to be any movement in the rivets where I can see them. No loose bolts visible but they would be behind the fan. Do I go further or start looking elsewhere...
Distributor drive, fuel pump drive, pistons, rods.....

This is the fuel pump for those that were asking. Brazilian made.