The type 3 motor i recently obtained was said to be a good runner, no smoke, no noise/bang/rattle, with a miss in cylinder 3 and that is all.

having a look, pistons/barrels look excellent! despite soot from a rich run. even the piston rings look great, factory machining lines for the pistons are still on there.

however, whilst cleaning my block, (with the pulley off, only the flywheel attatched to the crank shaft)... i can physically pull it and push it in and out by a matter of a huge amount! i will measure it.. but friggen huge compared to 0.003 to 0.006 inch factory specs.

its like, a mm and a bit.

Does it make a difference if the crankshaft pulley is not fitted? it current isn't fitted and wasn't while i was moving the crankshaft. however, every video i have seen that pulley has been attached. and i'm wondering whether the pulley itself takes up some of the slack, and hence with it removed, caused me to have this scare.

otherwise its a new main bearing, align bore for me, if the case hasn't been pounded by the moving crankshaft.

Conrod main bearings seem good though...

pulley doesn't affect the end float.......have you measured it or just guessed ?

guessed a measurement... but the movement is psyko. will take a caliper reading tomorrow and perhaps even a video. its nutz.

so i guess i'm rooted! i can see the movement

yeah but you can see the movement in a tappet as well and its .006........so don't come to any conclusion until you measure

i might have hope then!

i have a set of vernier calipers... i spose what i will do (tight arse method lol) i push the crank as far in as i can and out, measure both as a distance from the case and find the difference.

Thanks Craig. This might be good, we'll see soon!

even feeler gauge can give you a good indication..

dial indicator on the flywheel is the best way to get a truely accurate measurement

have you dropped the flywheel off to make sure theres 3 shims in there?
i once scored an engine with about 2mm play which i thouight the worst with but found it only had 1 shim in there
the oil pressure when hot will give a bit of an indication of whats going on if the front bearings pounded out

Hi

If you take the flywheel off, push on the face of the main bearing and see if it moves, if not get someone to push on the crank from the other end while you look at the bearing to see if it moves or use your verniers if you cant get a dial indicator.

Another way to measure end float is makeup a solid adjustable stop against the flywheel, then you can measure it with feeler gauges.

Steve

Ok, so i appologise, it was a case of blind Chris and the 'Fish was this big" :P

according to the rough vernier caliper measurement, play is 0.45mm, equates too 0.0177 inches, which is still too big, but not as bad as 2 mm lol.

I haven't taken off hte flywheel to look at the shims yet. hopefully its got one or so short of 3, i'm sure that'll sort her out

I guess the thing that freaked me out.. is that i can move this crankshaft by hand, in and out. i don't need to pry. is that supa bad?

I might have missed the point, but wouldnt more shims increase the float?

Newt

nah reduces, basically its packing up the crank so it cant move as much

Chris that really is FA, some thicker shims will take care of that

i had a 71 1500 bug with a 1600 twiny that i sold to mate
it had abit of crank movement

from out at the farm into Lismore which is 19KMs it would go from the full mark on the dipstick to the add mark.
and i wasnt burning it either, pumping it all out passed the main bearing

when i finally dropped the engine out and chucked the dial indicator on it only had.....4.6mm float

still ran well considering