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[MOD] - 2 speed wipers
56astro - June 11th, 2003 at 07:36 PM

Here's a pic of a 2 speed wiper motor grafted to the old 1 speed assembly of the Oval.

The crank on the spindle needed to be slightly modified as well.


VWFOOL - June 11th, 2003 at 08:40 PM

if u dont mind,
can u send me some detailed instructions on how to do this, im keen to do this to my Oval's wipers.thanks mate
good luck with the Oval
sam


56astro - June 11th, 2003 at 10:11 PM

No worries Sam.

I'll jot a few things down and e-mail or U2U u.


Flintstones - June 11th, 2003 at 10:30 PM

Hi
Can you send those details my way as well please.
Really appreciate it
cheers:thumb


helbus - June 11th, 2003 at 10:40 PM

56astro it may be easier to post all the details here!:D


56astro - June 12th, 2003 at 11:16 AM

Yep

Stay tuned peoples

:thumb


56astro - June 12th, 2003 at 01:33 PM

I have made this mod as a requirement for my blue slip for my 56 Oval. A 2 speed unit would simply not bolt straight in because of the different locating points for the frame, and also the fact that the spindles that the wiper arms attach to are in different positions in the body work below the windsreen.

INSTRUCTIONS

I started with 2 complete units. One from my Oval, the other was a complete unit Luke Pell got for me off a wreck (year model unknown).

Then make sure both motors have been "parked". This is importent cause it gives you a reference point to work from.

Before removing the single speed motor make sure you mark a line along the frame, in line with the long arm which is attached to the crank on the spindle. This gives you an indication where to line up the new 2 speed motor on your old frame.

Remove the single speed motor and discard it (ya won't be needing that bastard again :D ).

Remove the 2 speed motor and its backing plate from its frame. The motor is screwed to this backing plate.

The new 2 speed motor's location onto your old frame will be determined by the location of several things: the relationship of the key-way between the spindle and short crank arm, and the location of the long arm from the crank when in the park position.

In relation to the crank, I had to make a new one and insert a key-way into it. Now you can see how important it is to mark your reference points first!

Once you get the location of the motor right, you need to tack weld it. Once tack welded you can connect the power to it and test run it.

In my case I had to make another short crank arm, and also bend the long arm that attaches to the crank. The reason for this is that I had to "clear" the nut on the spindle. I think from memory the long arm rotated under the crank on the old setup. On the new setup you can see that the long arm rotates over the crank.


duncombemu - June 12th, 2003 at 02:01 PM

Right now I have a bit of an idea, do you 'marry' the two types of wiring setups together?
Have you a diagram of the wiring of the new motor? Can you supply?
Regards,
Mark:thumb


56astro - June 12th, 2003 at 09:54 PM

Ahh, the wiring.

Now that's something I know little about.

I'm getting all new switch gear (mostly) so the new switch will be a 2-speed (maybe even intermitent) switch. I assume the wires out of the motor are all that is needed.

I think I'll leave it up to my auto-sparkie.


vw54 - June 13th, 2003 at 08:54 AM

In my Orange Smoothieee I used a 1500 Beetle wiper assy. Its much smaller that the S Bug type and fits neater under the front panel.

The spindles are slightly narrower and the hole only need to be filed out to make it fit.

The best method is to turn the drive arm on the motor 180 degrees from where it parks in the stock form.

thsi allows the wiper arms to park on the same side as a stock 40hp beetle or Oval.

the wiper arms have to shortened and bent slightly to make the blades sit flat on the screen.

Pic below shows wiper park postion before turning drive arm 180 deg


vw54 - June 13th, 2003 at 08:55 AM

Pic below shows wiper park position after turning motor drive arm 180 deg.


slow n low - July 20th, 2003 at 10:15 AM

G'day
I just converted my 66 beetle to two speed, by bolting a 1500 beetle motor onto the earlier frame. (this mod doesn't need the crank rotated because on the earlier frame, the motor bolts on the opposite side to that of the 1500). test fitted it in the car to see if it shuts off in the right place and all is well.

Cheers damian

[Edited on 20-7-2003 by slow n low]


whatnow - July 25th, 2003 at 01:27 AM

when i fitted a 2 speed motor into my car ( a 63 ) i also wanted to fit the later switch (i used a 68-70 switch) but not cut the dash to do so.

after a little head scratching and generally sitting looking at stuff it all came together.

the center hole on the late bezel is just the right size to tap to screw the early bezel into.
find someone who can tell you what size the thread on the early bezel is (can't remember the size now) and get the late bezel tapped to suit. (a mechine tool shop or alike should have the gauges to tell you the tap you will need)
take off the lipped section on the late bezel back to the base of the threads (disk sander or file etc), so it will screw right into the switch.
add a little loctite on the bezel threads, screw it into the switch so that the end of the bezel is flush with the mounting point on the switch. now your switch will mount onto the dash with no dash mods.

the next problem is the knob. because of the differences in the switches the early knob will screw onto the late switch but cannot screw down tight so it will not turn the switch on or off.
the perfect knob to use is a early T3/overseas beetle dash knob. it is the late 50's/early-mid 60's shape but has a button in the middle so you can use the windscreen washers. these are available (reproduction) now.
when i fitted my switch the early T3 style knobs were v.hard to find and i was in a hurry so i just got the normal early knob, put a fair dose of "pacer" "zap a gap" gap filling super glue (excellent stuff, available in decient hobby/model shops) in the knob threads and screwed it on. the zap a gap filled the threads in the knob so it is now a v.tight fit but will still screw on and off. perfect solution

i had origionally planed that when i did the "big" resto thingy i would make up some sort of spacer the fit the knob properly but now i think i will just use the super glue... :)

i hope this helps and makes sense.
if anyone wants things clarified just ask.

henry.


vw54 - July 25th, 2003 at 09:57 AM

Heres a pic of the wiper motor in position


vw54 - July 25th, 2003 at 10:00 AM

Pic of the fuse box with intermitiant wiper module in place.

Its a later Type 3 fuse box installed in the 65 so the high beam, wiper and blinker modules can be plugged in.


slow n low - July 25th, 2003 at 08:59 PM

Vw54
This is a photo of the 2 speed wiper motor that came out of my 1970 1500 beetle. As you can see it has the extra contactor and associated wiring for 2 speed as compared to the single speed 6v volt adjacent to the renovated unit. this motor looks different to the one you have fitted. My oval is a different story, it's 2 speed motor is the same as yours but void of any of the modifactions to make it stop in the right place. I am assuming that it is out of a later model beetle? which one is actually the 1500 unit.

Cheers damian