Here are some pics of how I do it.

Some people just bore the hole for the barrel
right down to the bottom... with a sharp tool.

If it does not break through behind #3
it will most likely crack (from the sharp corner) at some point soon.

Some people do not "deck" the barrel face either.

My first step is to spot face the case savers
so they will not lift the barrel at all, when the head nuts are tensioned.
I spot face them about .010" below the proposed final deck.





I then "deck the case" ...usually about .070", to make sure that ALL four will clean up
and have a nice flat surface for the barrel to sit on.



All surfaces must be at the same height from the crankshaft centreline.



First step is for piston clearance,
and second step locates the barrel.

Before decking #3, I press in a sleeve
on top of the 'deep' top case saver,
to get a bit more support.
See the top stud hole closest to the FW.



By doing the bore and deck in one machine setting
you know that they are dead square.

You will note that the decking process is only removing just enough material for the barrel to sit on.



Also note that I have used a nice large radius in the corners. (3mm radius)
Going to a larger bore,
is a good way to remove he sharp corners that are there from the VW factory.
Sharp corners are a good place for cracks to start,
so it is good to get rid of them.



Doing the job properly takes twice as long as boring the hole straight to the bottom,
with no steps , radii, or decking.
But it will give your engine a good base for a better lifespan

only a complete fuckwit would bore the case without a step

there is a few fuckwits out there

Always wanted to see how this was done

perfect and to the "nth degree" as always DB

How much do u charge for this kinda service dangerous?

I don't do it for anybody, it takes too long.
I am currently doing it on my big lathe,
so all the studs and oil suction pipe need to be removed.

I am saving up for a milling machine, may be then...prob about .....?

wow...excellent stuff.

Once the mill arrives the sky is the limit

Dave well done as usual.

Not trying to steal any thunder, but if anyone wants this done, I (and probably Dave too) can organise it in Bris. Cost runs around $220- $270.

As a comparison, a less perfecto job may be around $120

^^^^^About time Dave

Good work Dave...........unfortunately there is plenty of workshops out there just boring a hole straight through, some using a drill press!!!

Mick motors charge $220 for the case to be milled for 94's

wow its gone up $7 for a MAG case, its still half the price of some other places and top quality

Oh, thats a bargain then!

HANG the price

Finding someone to do the job or is interetsed in it is far more important


Good machine shops are disappearing VERY fast

thanks for the write up dave, always interested in this stuff

This is nearly 4 years ago.
I have had my milling machine for a while now, so dont use the lathe any more.

Who ever people get to do their case machining,
ask them to use a radius tool (minimum 2 mm radii),
spot face the case savers just below the final deck,
and sleeve the #3 deep stud hole
to help support that thin web that is left when boring for 94's.

need to replace a broken head-stud 8mm ! recent Mexican case ..stud snapped on 1661 tp mtr
had a case saver in it ....hours to remove....anyone got larger savers ?
tried Micks just need 1 for ca 13mm dia saver and a 8 mm stud
happy to pay postage etc

0421286423
Bern...happy to come for a drive Sat?