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posted on May 6th, 2013 at 01:10 PM
1916cc, should I turbo or not worth it?
Hey guys, I was digging through my garage and I found an old turbo setup that was on my 1600 show car. My new car is a 62 beetle with a 1916 pobjoy
motor. I still have to dig through a heap of boxes and find all the piping/exhaust for the turbo but what im wondering is if its worth while fitting
the turbo. There is a performance car company near me that does turbo setups for cars, thinking about trading them my ute in exchange for them fitting
up this turbo. I know nothing about turbos so this is all new to me. The turbo is a IHI VR-1. Only looking to run around 4-5 psi so I dont have to
change the compression. What are your thoughts on this?
Cheers!
Blake
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posted on May 6th, 2013 at 06:15 PM
I am guessing you would need to change a few of the internals.
Guessing it is a non CW crank and a non turbo cam(??)
Don't think it is a bolt on and drive
I would just drive and enjoy
Futue te ipsum!!!
cnfabo
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posted on May 6th, 2013 at 06:32 PM
i would ring stan and have a chat to him..
fabo
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posted on May 6th, 2013 at 06:33 PM
The car it came off had a stock 1600 motor and ran for a good 15-20 years like that. I didn't think it would be an issueif iIran low boost?
bajachris88
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posted on May 6th, 2013 at 06:50 PM
Read this, its an article based on three cam profile trials with turbo (stock, mild, wild). not vw but the theories are the same.
Your stock cam can be used, overlap not an issue.
non-CW crank not an issue at low rpm, only a problem with eccentricity at high rpm.
Thus, if small turbo, spool comes on early (thus boost early), power band is down low which compliments your stock cam shaft and keeps the rpms at a
safe range.
Low psi like what you have suggested that will suit cast internals for 1600cc, for a 2ltr i can't tell you whether it would survive or not. I'll let
the pros make the call.
Extra heat is inevitable. This is heat at the heads, not in the oil (and thus additional oil coolers won't do much to assist). Doghouse cooler setup
will keep typical hot spot #3 cylinder cool with improved air flow, ensuring good fuel mixture will keep temps down. Also ensure dissy timing is
strictly limited in boost to prevent detonation/pinking and make sure all tinwear is present. CBperformance have a distributor you can tune for that
applicable with changing springs for mechanical advance.
great thing about turbo's is you are only on boost when you want to be (IE: when you have your foot down and your at the rpms suitable for spooling)
So its not like you will be boosting all the time and building up extra heat during your drive, unless you are racing).
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New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on May 6th, 2013 at 07:49 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by cnfabo
i would ring stan and have a chat to him..
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posted on May 6th, 2013 at 09:56 PM
It sure is worth going turbo. Have a look at the different options like blow through vs draw through, different carbs you could use or even EFI. There
are several suitable turbos available for a 2L engine these days which might be a better option before rebuilding your VR-1. If you already have the
whole set up, it shouldn't cost much for a professional shop to get it going for you. Best to keep the turbo & pipework out of the engine bay for
a daily driven car. Have a chat with Stan about compression ratio, rings, cam, oil lines etc. Plan to beef up the rest of the driveline somewhere down
the road.
