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Author: Subject:  why not to buy a Amarok TSI if your in a cold climate!
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posted on May 14th, 2013 at 10:55 AM



No dealer is in Tamworth nsw and i think the next dealer is hunter or port maquarie...

Yes exactly i was not made aware of the problem before i bought it!




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posted on May 14th, 2013 at 12:43 PM



An email or letter to head office? Phone calls don't work, they get thrown in the bin!



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posted on May 14th, 2013 at 02:28 PM



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posted on May 14th, 2013 at 09:08 PM



Everyones entitled to an opinion and here's mine.

I owned a top of the range Tiguan diesel auto. Not bad car. Economical too. But some niggling issues persisted including oil consumption so bad it wouldnt last 15,000 between services without a top up. VW said "that's normal". So approaching 60,000kms I was thinking of selling it. Then the 60,000 km service came around. It had a DSG gearbox so an extra $450 on top of the standard service charge. And a new windscreen set me back a further $950 and that charge was cheap compared to the listed price- around $1450. So an all up cost of just under 2 grand for a 60,000 km service and new screen.

Sold the car. Now I also own a Hyundai i30 diesel. A totally different vehicle by far but if I assess the operational servicing costs of the i30 and that over 230,000 ksm of trouble free driving then I'm sold on Hyundai. And zero oil use. So IF I was to want an SUV I'd check out the Toyotas, Hyundai and most likely the great Subaru's. I wont go back to VW.




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posted on May 14th, 2013 at 09:17 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by tweety including oil consumption so bad it wouldnt last 15,000 between services without a top up. .


hah!
Good thing you dont own a Polo GTi

1L per 2,000kms is "acceptable" :lol::crazy::mad:




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posted on May 15th, 2013 at 10:03 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by tweety
Everyones entitled to an opinion and here's mine.

I owned a top of the range Tiguan diesel auto. Not bad car. Economical too. But some niggling issues persisted including oil consumption so bad it wouldnt last 15,000 between services without a top up. VW said "that's normal". So approaching 60,000kms I was thinking of selling it. Then the 60,000 km service came around. It had a DSG gearbox so an extra $450 on top of the standard service charge. And a new windscreen set me back a further $950 and that charge was cheap compared to the listed price- around $1450. So an all up cost of just under 2 grand for a 60,000 km service and new screen.

Sold the car. Now I also own a Hyundai i30 diesel. A totally different vehicle by far but if I assess the operational servicing costs of the i30 and that over 230,000 ksm of trouble free driving then I'm sold on Hyundai. And zero oil use. So IF I was to want an SUV I'd check out the Toyotas, Hyundai and most likely the great Subaru's. I wont go back to VW.




I am starting to feel that way,very disappointing..




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posted on May 15th, 2013 at 10:07 AM



-1 this morning very hesitant... would hate to try to pull out on a highway in the cold if it wasn't warmed up..



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posted on May 15th, 2013 at 12:54 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Bizarre
Quote:
Originally posted by tweety including oil consumption so bad it wouldnt last 15,000 between services without a top up. .


hah!
Good thing you dont own a Polo GTi

1L per 2,000kms is "acceptable" :lol::crazy::mad:

I was watching the race golfs last year at the vw Nationals Supersprints...... and they were topping the oil up after each 5 laps :blush:




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posted on May 15th, 2013 at 04:26 PM



So all that oil must be burnt (?) how does that meet polution requirements?



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posted on May 16th, 2013 at 01:43 PM



update.....

i have had contact today and have been advised that it is the engine mapping that does it? I have to start the car then turn it off to try reset the mapping on cold start.

i have no idea what that is anyone?




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posted on May 16th, 2013 at 05:08 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by sgetty
update.....

i have had contact today and have been advised that it is the engine mapping that does it? I have to start the car then turn it off to try reset the mapping on cold start.

i have no idea what that is anyone?


I think that the person that told you that has no idea either.




I read it on samba, so it must be correct.

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posted on May 16th, 2013 at 08:24 PM



I have owned my Hilux for 12 years and haven't had such issues.
This morning it choked on a gutful of unusually cold air on startup.
Took all of 2 seconds to recover.
Drove perfectly. As usual.
WTF is going on with these supposedly more evolved products?
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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 09:07 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Lucky Phil
I have owned my Hilux for 12 years and haven't had such issues.
This morning it choked on a gutful of unusually cold air on startup.
Took all of 2 seconds to recover.
Drove perfectly. As usual.
WTF is going on with these supposedly more evolved products?


Id say in the race for Quantity, Quality has been compromised..
They have offered to lend me another one to see if it is the same but we are getting cloud cover at the moment so might not get cold mornings again till that clears.
its was 8 degrees this morning so i had no problem




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 10:19 AM



I was also getting oil consumption issues on my 2010 polo gti (and not alone as there are many threads on it on the watercooled vw forum).... a whopping 1.3 litres consumed every 1000km. Had a rebuilt engine and a new engine and the problem still continued at varying rates but I would never get over 2000km without an oil top up. Vw dealerships don't care at one point they told me they had no fix and to just keep coming back for oil top ups?? The service was pretty poor and the cost of a service was high and probably unnecessary me paying for oil change considering I was pretty much replacing the entire oil content ever 2 months hah.

I sold when the issue appeared to be resolved (though I have no faith in those engines) and went back to my '60 bug as a daily. It has a judson and doesn't burn as much oil as my new volkswagen did!




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 01:48 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by AA003
Quote:
Originally posted by sgetty
update.....

i have had contact today and have been advised that it is the engine mapping that does it? I have to start the car then turn it off to try reset the mapping on cold start.

i have no idea what that is anyone?


I think that the person that told you that has no idea either.


I second that....




see.... air and water do mix ;)

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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 02:49 PM



^^ 3rded



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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 03:06 PM



mapping is the programmed 'air/fuel' ratio. its like a curve in a graph... where the fuel delivered is dependant on temperature (in engine), air temperature, manifold pressure MAP (or mass air flow MAF), rpm etc. to ensure optimal fuel/spark delivery and thus adequate burn. This mapping also includes the ignition advance 'curve' based on those same parameters. the computer is meant to put all these measured parameters together to determine both your spark timing and fuel injector squirt duration.

your hesitation is typical of a lean condition. efi has no 'choke' like the old skool cars to suck in more fuel, so the computer should be able to recognise that and provide more fuel for the cold condition. Most cars have a cold start injector, but i believe that is for the hard starting attributed to cold, as opposed to driving/running in cold. A car without a cold starter (like an 80's jdm celica i once had) had rough starts in cold and took a couple more turns then normal, yet would run fine once it starts up. While a 90's ADM celica i once had, had the cold start injector and it would do just start, inject on a 'cold start', and made the motor fire up easier.

What you describe though is a continual issue after you have 'started' in the 'cold'... :crazy:




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 03:08 PM



I think they make cars so fast these days they dont have the time for testing, so you get the green car and the public do the real time testing. they run them so lean to get good fuel econ. the next model series 2 will be better .
After the customer do the testing and vw work out haw to improve it.




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 03:18 PM



Actually, if its the mapping the dealer might just have to obtain a revised 'firmware' or map for your ecu and simply upload. They might be able to tell you if there is one in the making.

There might be a revision floating around. Otherwise, some tuners are also able to modify existing ecu's so they may upload their own air/fuel maps (to account for engine modifications), and thus you could have it independantly retuned. Goodbye warranty i spose.. :( eek. At the end of the day its dealers responsibility.




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 03:28 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
mapping is the programmed 'air/fuel' ratio. its like a curve in a graph... where the fuel delivered is dependant on temperature (in engine), air temperature, manifold pressure MAP (or mass air flow MAF), rpm etc. to ensure optimal fuel/spark delivery and thus adequate burn. This mapping also includes the ignition advance 'curve' based on those same parameters. the computer is meant to put all these measured parameters together to determine both your spark timing and fuel injector squirt duration.

your hesitation is typical of a lean condition. efi has no 'choke' like the old skool cars to suck in more fuel, so the computer should be able to recognise that and provide more fuel for the cold condition. Most cars have a cold start injector, but i believe that is for the hard starting attributed to cold, as opposed to driving/running in cold. A car without a cold starter (like an 80's jdm celica i once had) had rough starts in cold and took a couple more turns then normal, yet would run fine once it starts up. While a 90's ADM celica i once had, had the cold start injector and it would do just start, inject on a 'cold start', and made the motor fire up easier.

What you describe though is a continual issue after you have 'started' in the 'cold'... :crazy:



Yes i see now, looks like i am the guinea pig and my amarok is the series 1 VN commadore of the naughties..
does anyone remember those i had one.
the only car worst series 1 EA falcon




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 03:37 PM



Hmm, same sort of problem different car and situation.
When I first got my diesel Caddy, second hand and 200k on the clock, quite often it would hardly move when I started in the morning (cold and up a bit of a hill) I found that if I lifted the foot off the accelerator then planted it the car would take off and the problem disappear, hasn't done it for ages now though we are just getting into the colder weather, I hope the problem dosn't return. When I mentioned it to the VW service people here in Newcastle they simply shruged and told me I would have to learn how to drive it, that was a great help. :no:




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 03:50 PM



My last car was a caddy but the petrol, only cold start badly(rough idle) once and never did it again.

How much does a bad attitude inflame the situation and why do these people have jobs if they just don't give a stuff?




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 03:51 PM



yep vn commodore i did heaps of the recalls.
starter motor
welsh plugs
coil paks
rear main oil seals
fuel pump
fuel line hammer
computer memcal replace
timing chain replace
did these for weeks every day another VN recall list to do.
:crazy:

these days they have updates just like your home computer get from mircosoft. etc

these days they can plug your car in and a vw tech in the home land can check out maping. it sounds like it just needs a little more fuel on cold starts ,
just like how a auto choke works on a carby.




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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 06:50 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by sgetty
Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
mapping is the programmed 'air/fuel' ratio. its like a curve in a graph... where the fuel delivered is dependant on temperature (in engine), air temperature, manifold pressure MAP (or mass air flow MAF), rpm etc. to ensure optimal fuel/spark delivery and thus adequate burn. This mapping also includes the ignition advance 'curve' based on those same parameters. the computer is meant to put all these measured parameters together to determine both your spark timing and fuel injector squirt duration.

your hesitation is typical of a lean condition. efi has no 'choke' like the old skool cars to suck in more fuel, so the computer should be able to recognise that and provide more fuel for the cold condition. Most cars have a cold start injector, but i believe that is for the hard starting attributed to cold, as opposed to driving/running in cold. A car without a cold starter (like an 80's jdm celica i once had) had rough starts in cold and took a couple more turns then normal, yet would run fine once it starts up. While a 90's ADM celica i once had, had the cold start injector and it would do just start, inject on a 'cold start', and made the motor fire up easier.

What you describe though is a continual issue after you have 'started' in the 'cold'... :crazy:



Yes i see now, looks like i am the guinea pig and my amarok is the series 1 VN commadore of the naughties..
does anyone remember those i had one.
the only car worst series 1 EA falcon


I remember only too well. I got one of the first VN wagons when they were released. Driving it out of the dealer, I had to go back as the auto box was stuck in 2nd. On the drive home, the speedo broke not to mention ALL the paint defects. The last straw was when the passenger window just shattered overnight when it was parked and the dealer didn't want to know about it. I have not nor will I ever buy another Holden since.

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posted on May 17th, 2013 at 08:31 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
Actually, if its the mapping the dealer might just have to obtain a revised 'firmware' or map for your ecu and simply upload. They might be able to tell you if there is one in the making.

There might be a revision floating around. Otherwise, some tuners are also able to modify existing ecu's so they may upload their own air/fuel maps (to account for engine modifications), and thus you could have it independantly retuned. Goodbye warranty i spose.. :( eek. At the end of the day its dealers responsibility.

So much easier for the dealer to just make the problem go away.
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posted on May 18th, 2013 at 07:21 AM



I doubt if it is a mapping problem. The VW dealer would have been notified and it would be an easy upload. If it was a design problem there would be thousands with the same problem.

You have a defective part on your vehicle (probably a sensor). They should fix it.

A friend of mine bought a near new GTI for half price because it would not run properly. The original owner had taken it back to dealers over many months and they could not find the fault. The new owner just kept checking things and found that the altitude correction sensor was faulty. It cost him about $100 to replace.




I read it on samba, so it must be correct.

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posted on May 18th, 2013 at 10:23 AM



An altitude correction sensor...hmmmm i am 800m and Tamworth is only 400 odd i wonder.
If there is thousands more with this problem it may be a case that its still a little early in most areas that is hasn't got cold enough yet..
If there is more with this problem then i think its going to more likely that mine will get fixed and if its something else well who knows really if it will get fixed or not.




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posted on May 18th, 2013 at 10:33 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by AA003
I doubt if it is a mapping problem. The VW dealer would have been notified and it would be an easy upload. If it was a design problem there would be thousands with the same problem.

You have a defective part on your vehicle (probably a sensor). They should fix it.

A friend of mine bought a near new GTI for half price because it would not run properly. The original owner had taken it back to dealers over many months and they could not find the fault. The new owner just kept checking things and found that the altitude correction sensor was faulty. It cost him about $100 to replace.



You have to wonder why sometimes they don't just replace a few things like sensors that are probable causes rather than doing nothing and just waiting for the answer to magically appear.

A few years ago we had a air leak in our exhaust brakes on our 6 tonne hino, had it in and out so many time they would think it was here and then replace one seal.
A trucky friend said you know in the long run you would be better off replacing the whole thing compressor seals lines everying in the long run!

And he was right it was three or four to replace the whole unit but
cost us because they couldn't find the problem
around six because they spent so much time trying to track down the leak in wages and parts and replaced three quarters the whole system in the end.

hard lesson learnt there




:)
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