| [ Total Views: 1089 | Total Replies: 16 | Thread Id: 102187 ] |
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 HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 08:15 AM |
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Ignition system...what is good?
It was a very frustrating day at the Supersprints on Saturday, with a serious lack of power in No.8 Beetle.
There were a few suggestions as to what was causing the miss-firing, and I think Rene F. may have nailed it. Rene thought the higher compression of
the 'new' 2276 engine may have been too much for the coil [which worked fine on the 'old' engine. He suggested using a Crane HI 6 set-up.
Anyone out there have any ideas on this? Any help welcome.
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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cnfabo
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 09:09 AM |
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Rene swears by that crane set up and he should know considering he has done a lot of dyno time with it and other systems...
Fabo
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bat69
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 12:31 PM |
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I got a crane HI6 'fireball' system with a whole heap of other perfomance stuff for the race bug but never ended up using the crane as I ended up
using a different system with the injection. I know there are a few circuit guys with escorts using this system on their BDA's. That's were mine
come from. Its just sitting in the shed if your interested.
White Knuckle Racing Team
"Drive it like dirt"
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 12:45 PM |
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PM sent, bat.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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sander288
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 01:46 PM |
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twin spark?
But I've spoken to Rene about his setup and he absolutely swears by it; it also is a much easier install
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MickH
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 06:07 PM |
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The Crane systems rock!!!!
tssnq.com.au
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dangerous
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 06:21 PM |
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Start by closing the plug gap a little, say to .018", then you can tell if it is a lack of ignition.
I have run 10:1 and 42psi boost with a stock early WBX ignition and it worked fine with close gaps,
although I will be the first to admit that a better ignition would have made more power.
I would be chasing a 'fault' rather than an upgrade,
since most ignition problems are fuel problems.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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colin
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 08:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
Start by closing the plug gap a little, say to .018", then you can tell if it is a lack of ignition.
I have run 10:1 and 42psi boost with a stock early WBX ignition and it worked fine with close gaps,
although I will be the first to admit that a better ignition would have made more power.
I would be chasing a 'fault' rather than an upgrade,
since most ignition problems are fuel problems.
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Would have to agree with Dave, before you upgrade or change anything I would be looking to find out the fault. Then address the solution with a
upgrade or other.
Good luck, fault finding can be frustrating.
Cheers Col
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colin
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 08:04 PM |
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What heat range plug did you use?, higher comp likes a cooler plug.
Cheers Col
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 08:53 PM |
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The plugs were NGK B7ES. Comp. is 11.5 : 1. Fuel - BP 98.
Had some input today from an old friend, who has years of experience with race engines. Alf thinks the problem started when I first started the engine
in the morning, when the temp. was about 2 degrees. He believes the plugs 'cold fouled', and did not fire properly after that. Makes sense to me.
Will be doing some looking at the fuel system, float levels, etc, etc. as well.
Dave, I agree about finding the 'fault' first. As this was the first time I have run the 'new' engine, it will be a case of 'sorting it
out'.
Thanks for the input...it all helps.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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DubbyDo
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| posted on May 27th, 2013 at 09:11 PM |
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"I have run 10:1 and 42psi boost with a stock early WBX ignition and it worked fine with close gaps"
You wouldnt even need plugs when it was running on boost would ya
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on June 6th, 2013 at 08:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bat69
I got a crane HI6 'fireball' system with a whole heap of other perfomance stuff for the race bug but never ended up using the crane as I ended up
using a different system with the injection. I know there are a few circuit guys with escorts using this system on their BDA's. That's were mine
come from. Its just sitting in the shed if your interested.
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HI 6 arrived today - thanks Nathan. If I can figure out the wiring, it will be going again soon......without the bad miss-fire.
Thanks also to Rene for the advice.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Grey 57
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| posted on June 6th, 2013 at 11:01 PM |
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Been running a Crane Hi6 for years on my 2.4ltr Porsche engine in my T34 Ghia. Really happy with it and no troubles at all.
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psimitar
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| posted on June 7th, 2013 at 12:10 AM |
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Have you rolling roaded the engine to make sure you have correct AFR across the rev range and engine loads?
Got an AFR set up in your exhaust. Great way to self tune the jetting.
I'm assuming the Hi8 is an older version of the current Hi6 CDI multi spark ignition system? So similar to the MSD AL6?
Will certainly make sure that if the spark is being 'blown out' by the compression ratio the CDI should cure that.
Sooty plugs is a very real possibility too.
Still least you have a few avenues to go down to try and eliminate the issue 
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on June 7th, 2013 at 05:12 AM |
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now you have a better ignition you can use a colder plug as well!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on June 7th, 2013 at 07:37 AM |
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Dave, hopefully the NGK 7s will be OK. Interestingly Crane recommend .045" gaps, for the HI 6. I'm saying well away from any wires when the engine is running.
Psim, the AFR looks good on the dyno sheets that Ben gave me, however I will be re-checking it. I intend to fit smaller venturis, so it will need to
be re-done.
Are those AFR gauges any good? It would be handy to have an ACCURATE reading , although it's another bloody gauge to look at.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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psimitar
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| posted on June 8th, 2013 at 12:07 AM |
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Well they work off the same sensor as an ECU Lambda sensor as far as I'm aware.
As for accuracy the electronics are pretty simple but as always a more expensive brand will likely be more accurate and reliable than a cheaper
brand.
Saw loads of the turbo boys in the UK using them to make sure they didn't cook the engine at full boost.
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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