| [ Total Views: 2061 | Total Replies: 39 | Thread Id: 102769 ] |
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 DakDak67
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 12:14 AM |
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The box came direct from Rancho in the US as that's where the car came from. I personally know the guy who built the car and I know the history going
back about 12 years and over 100,000 kms.
My friend in the US has a 270 HP 2276 turbo donk that copes fine with one .
If DB can build a box to suit your needs that would be a great option too , it may work out cheaper. I'll shortly be dropping my box off to him for
some TLC . Call around and go from there I guess 
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vwo60
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 10:04 AM |
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I am not argueing for the sake of it, i must be the only person to trial fit the fly wheel with the oring in place, it makes perfect sense to me to do
it that way, other wise you would have no way of knowing that it is damaged in the final assembly, easier to recifiy than having to dismantle the
whole engine when it is on the bench in pieces. my point is constructive as it alerts people to the trap of fitting the fly wheel without the oring in
place during the mock up.
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Allbones
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| posted on July 18th, 2013 at 09:55 AM |
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Out of curiosity, is anyone in australia running a 90x94 combo on the street?
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 matberry
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| posted on July 18th, 2013 at 12:47 PM |
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I have a client with an 88 x 94 that I built and it's great to drive, very mild cam and goes really well, in a trike too. The 90 crank is available
but a damn tight squeeze. You end up with about 1/2 the camshaft diameter
In response to Shayne with the O-ring during trial assy, I only use them once as I don't like the idea of the O-ring getting reused/damaged. Maybe
with light of this thread (and the news from the guy with the issues) I may change my technique.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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1916baja
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| posted on July 18th, 2013 at 12:59 PM |
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Keep in mind also, your car is slammed! You suspension setup is not ideal for 150+ hp, you may need to rethink some of that too.
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Allbones
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| posted on July 18th, 2013 at 02:10 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1916baja
Keep in mind also, your car is slammed! You suspension setup is not ideal for 150+ hp, you may need to rethink some of that too.
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I do realise this.
Will probably half the height its lowered, add a kaffer bar, disks & use drop plates instead of rotating splines to get the drop I want.
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Allbones
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| posted on July 18th, 2013 at 02:11 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
The 90 crank is available but a damn tight squeeze. You end up with about 1/2 the camshaft diameter.
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Ahh ok, Guessing that will impact reliability/strength somewhat, not really what I am going for, haha.
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matberry
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| posted on July 18th, 2013 at 03:36 PM |
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The bigger you build it, for reliability, the more you de-tune it as the crank journals are smaller therfore flex more as the stroke and rpm increase.
So it becomes a complex game of trade offs. I recommend lower rpms as the engine gets bigger as the forces involved is what makes the bigger combos
less reliable.Pushing a beetle along takes very little power, even a 1776 can be an enjoyable experience, live long and go hard. The combo in my '59
is very strong in both performance and reliability as it's components have been chosen with these goals in mind, it runs cool, fast and isn't so
highly stressed as I put the best parts where necessary and continually aimed for light and strong. It's 90.5 pistons are lighter than 94's, the
rods are light, the gudgeon pins are light, the flywheel and clutch is light, even the clutch bolts and washers are light, also by using a mild
stroke, the crank has larger VW journals which makes it stronger, all these things IMO reduce stresses. And let me tell you, it's plenty fast.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Aussie
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| posted on July 18th, 2013 at 08:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vvwbeetle
Allbones
I have a 2332, putting out 151hp on the dyno, not a revy engine, max power just over 6500rpm, awesome street driver with heaps of torque, happy to
discuss any questions
ps. not my daily driver-but on the run to Valla last year avg close to 9ltrs/100km with a 4 speed box sitting at 3500 rpm bang on 100km/h.
Simon
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What are the motor specs? Sounds nice 
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on July 19th, 2013 at 06:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
The bigger you build it, for reliability, the more you de-tune it as the crank journals are smaller therfore flex more as the stroke and rpm increase.
So it becomes a complex game of trade offs. I recommend lower rpms as the engine gets bigger as the forces involved is what makes the bigger combos
less reliable.Pushing a beetle along takes very little power, even a 1776 can be an enjoyable experience, live long and go hard. The combo in my '59
is very strong in both performance and reliability as it's components have been chosen with these goals in mind, it runs cool, fast and isn't so
highly stressed as I put the best parts where necessary and continually aimed for light and strong. It's 90.5 pistons are lighter than 94's, the
rods are light, the gudgeon pins are light, the flywheel and clutch is light, even the clutch bolts and washers are light, also by using a mild
stroke, the crank has larger VW journals which makes it stronger, all these things IMO reduce stresses. And let me tell you, it's plenty fast.
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Matt,
I spoke to a lot of people and was recommended to build a1776 am really looking forward to the first drive in a few weeks
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