| [ Total Views: 2626 | Total Replies: 25 | Thread Id: 102794 ] |
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 haggismuncha
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 11:22 AM |
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engine oil
Hi everyone, I am new to the veedub scene and just bought my first dub a few months ago. I have a 1976 microbus 1800cc. Can anyone tell me the best
engine oil to use. I went to my local VW mechanic to get an oil change kit and he recommended I use Diesel 15w-40. Am not sure what type of engine oil
is in the bus just now. Is it ok to use the 15w-40 to top up the oil in the meantime or should I do a complete oil change. Cheers |
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 matberry
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 11:35 AM |
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Ok to top up with, the diesel has been recommended as it has some good slippery stuff (ZDDP) in it that has been removed from later generation oils,
there are many oil manufacturers out there with the right stuff, but I use and recommend ACE 30 (20W-40) which is Australian made/owned and designed
for our air cooled engines (hence the name Air Cooled Engine oil)
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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68BUS
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 12:11 PM |
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Matt,
Were do you get the ACE30?
I read on aircooled tech talk that they recommend using a Synthetic (or semi) 20W-50 for new engines?
Any merit in that for the first few run ins.
BTW, I got stalked the other day. When I pulled up a fella jumped out and told me he had just inherited a 71 bus.
He did not it to look nice ("just like mine ).
He did want it to go fast though. I gave him your details Matt for the engine and Dave Butler for gearbox if you don't do them.
So expect a call soon form a fella who met a fella........
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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matberry
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 12:19 PM |
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Cheers mate, I don't recommend Syn till after run in preferbly, but I'm also mainly using mineral oil. Synthetic is best in trannys but keeping it
inside is a problem.
I sell ACE or look on the QPL (Quality Performance Lubes, located Baccus Marsh Vic) website for a distributer or they may supply direct.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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68BUS
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 01:06 PM |
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Funny,
I was told Synthetic for the engine and Hypoid for the gearbox. Total reversal to you.
Alright then. You sell the ACE but you are on the Sunny Coast yeah?
Can you PM me a number so I can have a chat about with you about getting some ACE30.
Not sure I would drive all the way to the coast to get oil but my folks are often in Noosa. Maybe able to sort something out.
Cheers.
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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matberry
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 02:40 PM |
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No worries, ph # is on the bottom of each of my posts
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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68BUS
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| posted on July 17th, 2013 at 02:42 PM |
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Well derrr brad.
Call you later.
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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haggismuncha
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| posted on July 20th, 2013 at 02:26 PM |
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Thanks, thats a great help. |
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bugzla
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| posted on July 20th, 2013 at 08:28 PM |
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check out classic oils from penrite the racing series 15w50 awesome 1350 parts of zinc if you need something thicker 25w60 nulon 1500 parts of zinc
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matberry
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| posted on July 20th, 2013 at 08:39 PM |
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Thick oil hurts engines from lack of volume. It is the volume of oil that is the only source of piston cooling so choose carefully. Also the wider
the viscosity range, the more additives hence less actual oil in the brew
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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bugzla
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| posted on July 20th, 2013 at 10:16 PM |
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I don't know why people stay with mineral based oils other then rotarys with oil feed still connected, that's why they make syn products and ester
blends like the racing series low vis high protection high zinc less friction more power I don't know why people are scared to protect their pride
and joy... . I hear it everyday oils are oils, but I change the oil every 5 km so I can, cheap mineral in my car that's what I used for 20 years and
and never hurt the engine but how ever oil manufactures never keep the same blend with base oils as they always need to make it stretch to the next
model of car as matt said choose carefully
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AA003
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| posted on July 21st, 2013 at 05:35 AM |
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Synthetic oils do not transfer heat very well and are not recomended for air cooled engines. Ring the lubrication engineers at Mobil etc.
You will notice that the oil temperature is much lower with synthetic oils as it is not transferring the heat from the engine.
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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vlad01
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| posted on July 22nd, 2013 at 10:55 PM |
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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 22nd, 2013 at 11:12 PM |
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just on the use of diesel oils in petrol engines. A number of fleet cars where I worked in the late eighties ended up with some very rattley engines.
I was told it was because the fleet mechanic decide to stock and use just one oil, diesel oil in all cars, and that the diesel oil has more
detergents and was stripping the bores too clean.
any knowledge on that point?
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fish26
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| posted on July 24th, 2013 at 12:51 AM |
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Brad Penn Green Oil
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bitten by the bug..........several times
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DakDak67
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| posted on July 24th, 2013 at 06:38 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by fish26
Brad Penn Green Oil
Valvoline VR1 Racing
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Yup. Only the best.
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Lucky Phil
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| posted on July 25th, 2013 at 10:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Uber Kafer
just on the use of diesel oils in petrol engines. A number of fleet cars where I worked in the late eighties ended up with some very rattley engines.
I was told it was because the fleet mechanic decide to stock and use just one oil, diesel oil in all cars, and that the diesel oil has more
detergents and was stripping the bores too clean.
any knowledge on that point?
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Yep.
Did it myself.
Used diesel oil in a perfectly good 253 holden v8 (cos I got the oil for nothing) and ended up with noisy lifters.
Also saw several perfectly good engines ruined back in the 80's when Teflon treatments were the go.
Turned out the Teflon treatments were chockabloc full of the same detergents, and stripped all the carbon and varnish out so the Teflon could attach
itself to the metal.
Turned them into noisy old oil burners.
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vwo60
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| posted on July 26th, 2013 at 07:19 PM |
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http://www.aircooled.net/synthetic-vw-oil/
http://www.lnengineering.com/joegibbsracingoils.html
I have been running penrite in all my engines but i will try the Joe Gibbs DT50 at my next oil change
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bugzla
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| posted on July 26th, 2013 at 10:06 PM |
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just putting it out there.................... with the vw motor it's air cooled not oil cooled correct
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DakDak67
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| posted on July 26th, 2013 at 11:07 PM |
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Both.
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vlad01
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| posted on August 7th, 2013 at 02:27 PM |
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DT50 will be the best, Raby developed that oil with Joe Gibbs company.
Make sure you use Joe Gibbs run-in oil first for little bit to flush the old oil, then DT50. Otherwise the chemistry clash will do harm.
Also penrite released 10 tenths "premium" range.
over 1600ppm zinc and class 5 and 4 synthetic esters, not just class 4.
Will see if I can get the HTHS rating as well, might have to email them for it.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on August 7th, 2013 at 02:49 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Thick oil hurts engines from lack of volume. It is the volume of oil that is the only source of piston cooling so choose carefully. Also the wider
the viscosity range, the more additives hence less actual oil in the brew
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if its synthetic it will have a wider range as synthetic base stock is more stable over over a greater temp range than mineral.
so if its fully synthetic, regard the wide range as good, if its mineral and wide range, stay away.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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bugzla
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| posted on August 7th, 2013 at 11:44 PM |
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found that lucas also make a syn and mineral based oil for the trusty vw ive just purchased a infra red temp gun so ill do some testing in a couple of
weeks on head temps between mineral and syn oils lucas could be donating a bottle for me to try in the trusty buggy so I use that as a starting point
as for the zinc massive amount
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vlad01
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| posted on August 8th, 2013 at 09:34 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bugzla
found that lucas also make a syn and mineral based oil for the trusty vw ive just purchased a infra red temp gun so ill do some testing in a couple of
weeks on head temps between mineral and syn oils lucas could be donating a bottle for me to try in the trusty buggy so I use that as a starting point
as for the zinc massive amount
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only way to be sure is do a UOA on the current oil for reference.
Use break in oil from the new brand, then do a UOA after say 2 oil changes with the new oil.
you will see if its better or not once you get the results back.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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bugzla
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| posted on October 8th, 2013 at 09:37 PM |
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Mobil 1T V-Twin 20W-50 anyone used this ............................. sounds good I asked the mobil tech guys they recon this is the go a bit weird
cause when asked a month or so ago they said no to syn oils interesting
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Newt
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| posted on December 14th, 2013 at 01:15 PM |
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Guys
If you used Joe Gibbs break in oil, can you switch to other brands after?
Cheers
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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