| [ Total Views: 970 | Total Replies: 17 | Thread Id: 104083 ] |
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 Beerboy
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 03:23 PM |
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High Temperature Contact Adhesive Wanted
Not sure if I am looking for the impossible. High Temp contact adhesive wanted to stick bunnings boat type carpet to the roof and get it to stay there
rather than the glue melting in the heat.
WANTED kombi drivers side rear corner for a early bay! found after six years lol
WANTED engine lid for early kombi 71
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donn
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 03:40 PM |
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silicone? but that's not a contact type glue...maybe one of the construction adhesives will do the job, simmilar to LIQUID NAILS, though you would
need the LIQUID NAILS PLATINUM variety as the standard is not for metal heated by the sun, I know the standard Liquid nails works as a contact
adhesive, not sure about the platinum .
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 04:09 PM |
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Hi
I have used generic contact cement which is very cheap to purchase in tubes...
The secret is...
one.. the surfaces MUST be perfectly clean..
two.. coat both surfaces with contact adhesive...
three... wait until its touch dry... [not long on a hot day]
four... push together... in Your case the carpet to the roof.
Now You only get one go at this...
as soon as it grabs.. that is it...
and it should stick for many years...
I stuck those foam yoga mats everywhere in My beetle about 15 years ago... two layers on the roof... around the sides.. in the doors etc.. under the
mudguards to stop stone chips..
above the gearbox and on the sides in the engine compartment.. and painted it flat black..
If You use contact cement the other way... just stick it on the roof or carpet and hold it there till it drys... it doesn't last all that long...
and especially carpet will come adrift...
as far as i can tell... all contact adhesive or contact cement are all the same.. all look the same and smell the same and stick the same... so the
cheaper the better...
cheers
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 04:35 PM |
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Sikaflex.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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AUSSIE_MICK
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 04:47 PM |
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There is a high temp contact adhesive, just ask any auto upholsterer
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57oval
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 05:21 PM |
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http://www.ritepricedistributors.com.au/adhesives/aerosols/3m-super-90-spray-...
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Beerboy
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 06:58 PM |
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I should have pointed out its for a T3 transporter so don't want to be spending a fortune either. anything in a tube I am going to be needing lots
of. I will give the normal contact adhesive a go. I might ask an auto trimmer too and see what they say. its a big bit on lining
WANTED kombi drivers side rear corner for a early bay! found after six years lol
WANTED engine lid for early kombi 71
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hellbugged
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| posted on November 16th, 2013 at 07:00 PM |
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Kwik grip gel.
Can get it in a tin, apply with brush
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Beerboy
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| posted on November 17th, 2013 at 09:15 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
Kwik grip gel.
Can get it in a tin, apply with brush
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no it does have to be the heavy duty stuff as the carpet isn't that light. the ones for more the craft stuff are not strong enough. I know which one
to use was looking for the extra backup of it being high temp so it doesn't melt
WANTED kombi drivers side rear corner for a early bay! found after six years lol
WANTED engine lid for early kombi 71
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donn
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| posted on November 17th, 2013 at 09:25 AM |
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There is more than one type of "standard" contact adhesive (though there is not really a "standard" as all manufacturers have slightly different
mixes ), one is a liquid and there's another one more like a jelly, the jelly one is easier to apply overhead as it won't keep dripping / running
off your application tool. The construction glue in tubes is available in a large sausage like container (like a large long plastic bag) and is
surprisingly inexpensive, I'd strongly suggest you read the instructions on the pack for its' suitability before investing the time, $ are most
times cheaper than time even if you are doing it yourself and not paying someone, the manufacturers make recomendations for a reason, they don't want
their product to earn a bad reputation which it will quickly do if used in the wrong situation.
My two bobs worth. 
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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hellbugged
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| posted on November 17th, 2013 at 11:48 AM |
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Fair enough, however i did use it with marine carpet on the roof of my matt black beetle 
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LUFTMEISTER
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| posted on November 17th, 2013 at 05:59 PM |
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Sikaflex polyurethane adhesive tube. Will stick a runny turd to a waterfall. Setting time may be an issue, upside down. Make sure you do not get any
on you as you have to wear it off once it sets. My2c
Customer service is not dead in Australia.
Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on November 17th, 2013 at 06:08 PM |
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Sikaflex is acidic and will cause rust on bare metal surfaces. Not sure if this issue was ever addressed but that's coming from our bus panel shop
where the whole fleet suffered from rust on siliconed areas.
Use wurth products as the alternative was their recommendation after researching the issue
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LUFTMEISTER
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| posted on November 17th, 2013 at 06:53 PM |
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Sikaflex is a polyurethane adhesive not a silicone. There are 2 types of silicone acidic & non acidic depending on the surface they are being used
on.
Neutral cure silicones are used on Metal, painted surfaces, acrylics and "soft" plastics.
Acid cure silicone are used on fired masonry such as tiles, porcelain, glass (except coated or painted glass), PVC class 2, timber or timber product
and "hard plastics".
As the name suggests acid cure silicone contains acid which chemically displaces hygroscopic water and oily molecules trapped in pores on the
embedment surfaces.
Always read manufacturers instructions regarding silicone sealants for plumbing fittings because sometimes they specify neutral sealants where the
rule would suggest using acid cure sealants and visa versa.
Polyurethane sealants and polysulphide sealants (Hybrid silicone/urethane) are another class of sealants that can generally be used where ever
silicone is used. The advantage these sealants have over silicone is that they are stronger, can bridge greater distances, and can be used with
special primers to really adhere strongly to surfaces.
Again however anything classed as a polysulphide will have a slightly corrosive effect on delicate surfaces and should be used on the same surfaces as
acid cure silicone.
Read more: http://www.renovateforum.com/f205/neutral-cure-vs-acidic-cure-silicone-56863/...
Polyurethanes hold our jets together, so that sh*t hangs on. My2c
Customer service is not dead in Australia.
Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools
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57oval
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| posted on November 17th, 2013 at 07:39 PM |
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http://www.daleys.com.au/products/view/92
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on November 17th, 2013 at 08:00 PM |
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Good info luftmiester, thanx
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Beerboy
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| posted on November 18th, 2013 at 04:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
Kwik grip gel.
Can get it in a tin, apply with brush
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great thanks bought this one. wife pointed out it was to 150 degrees temp. missed that. spot on.
WANTED kombi drivers side rear corner for a early bay! found after six years lol
WANTED engine lid for early kombi 71
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vlad01
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| posted on November 20th, 2013 at 09:49 AM |
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use TAC adhesive brush 205.
designed for automotive trimming and industrial applications, made in Dandenong, high temp rating.
sticks like no other contact glue I have EVER used. 25 bucks for 500ml or 1L? I forget. I have bulk of this stuff coz I loved it so much.
http://www.tacadhesives.com.au/
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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