| [ Total Views: 3713 | Total Replies: 29 | Thread Id: 104799 ] |
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 stilson
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| posted on January 21st, 2014 at 04:15 PM |
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'70 1500 beetle EJ20, IRS and type2 trans conversion
Hi all, I'm putting an EJ20 in my semi off-road bug and want to convert to IRS and want to use a 1600 bus transaxle and RJES bell housing.
I have a couple of transaxles I'm looking at, one with Porsche flanges.
Does anyone have any experience or advise for me before I lay down my hard earned?
I can pick up the engine, computer, wiring harness, IRS and trans for $700. Bell housing is about $800 and I'm factoring in another $1200 for sump,
mounts, throttle body relocation etc.
After pricing up my 100hp aircooled wish list hit $5000 in parts alone this seems like a no brainer as I love fab work and being a little left field
(and an off-road Subaru nut).
Of course there's the radiator location issue, a custom exhaust, and Porsche shafts, but have I overlooked anything that is going to bite me?
Cheers
Seanan.
Biting off more than I can chew...
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 21st, 2014 at 07:32 PM |
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ask Baja Wes he know a lot of buggy guys .
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http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/Big%20Bad%20Baja%20-%20Part%202.pdf
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nils
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| posted on January 21st, 2014 at 08:10 PM |
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Rethink your budget, it will always be twice what you think it is.
There are a huge amount of little things you are going to need. If you are thinking a budget build I would stay away from the Porsche axles, they
don't seem much dearer but with new stubs, cvs, axles, boots and flanges you'll find yourself parting with near to a grand. Concider type 4 cvs as
an alternative if travel is what you are chasing.
Quit calling rust patina
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stilson
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| posted on January 21st, 2014 at 10:30 PM |
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Thanks Ian, will do.
Nils, one can't budget for something as infinite as vehicle modification. I'm happy to roll with the punches.
So will type4 shafts bolt straight to the type2 box and IRS stubs? All good for length?
For the Porsche shafts I was looking at these:
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac598220.html
Thoughts?
Thanks for the replies,
Seanan.
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Bone
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| posted on January 22nd, 2014 at 06:58 PM |
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I used RJES bellhousing kit, type1-type2 stubs, T1 axles machined to suit T2 cv, Commodore fuel pump ect ect. Fab your own short sump and grap a
reverse manifold/ thottle body of steelart in brisbane. I made 50% of my exhaust also. All up about $2700 all up including$300 donor car. Ej22 with
about 130 hp. Very happy with result and bye bye aircooled days forever for me.
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stilson
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| posted on January 22nd, 2014 at 07:19 PM |
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Thanks for the info bone, got a build thread?
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nils
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| posted on January 22nd, 2014 at 08:08 PM |
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Hi Seanan,
The empi shafts you linked, will set you back 700ish with exchange and shipping and of coarse they are empi.
The type 4 CVs are direct replace for kombi cvs
Quit calling rust patina
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Bone
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| posted on January 22nd, 2014 at 09:38 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by stilson
Thanks for the info bone, got a build thread?
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Sorry mate no!
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stilson
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| posted on January 23rd, 2014 at 09:34 AM |
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No worries Bone, I'm going stalker on your past threads though 
Thanks nils, picking up the standard flanged trans today.
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vlad01
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| posted on January 24th, 2014 at 10:59 AM |
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I have a set of T1 -T2 conversion stubs brand new from CSP. I mostly likely wont use them. They are empi ones but sold under CSP brand.
If anyone needs them just give me a buzz.
I am personally looking for genuine Porsche 924 or 944 stubs so I can have the dust shield that the aftermarket ones don't have, but damn! they are
pricey for some reason?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 25th, 2014 at 07:12 PM |
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motor and loom, radiator etc
1974 (standard) Vw beetle with Subaru wrx turbo engine. Engineered and registered. Has disk brake front end, adjustable beam, porsche 5 stud /Vw 4
stud drilled hubs, HID head lights, standard interior( hood lining needs replacing) plastic rear windows with NACA ducts ( feeds air to intercooler).
Has a 97 Subaru ej20t motor with adaptor plate to a Vw gearbox. 3" custom exhaust. Radiator is up front under bonnet. Car runs well needs a few tidy
ups here n there. PORSCHE WHEELS NOT INCLUDED ( will provide stock wheels) NO TIME WASTERS OR JOY RIDERS. And NO swaps $
i think josh was after about $2700 for just the engine and adaptor set up. exhaust , cat convertor, radiator . pipes & hoses etc, give
him a call, engine 225Hp
Tenambit, NSW 2323
phone josh 0413871901 or pm me
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stilson
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| posted on January 25th, 2014 at 08:38 PM |
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PM sent vlad.
Thanks Ian, already have engine and hope to successfully run a rear rad setup (haha we'll see!)
Cheers,
Seanan.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 26th, 2014 at 12:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by stilson
PM sent vlad.
Thanks Ian, already have engine and hope to successfully run a rear rad setup (haha we'll see!)
Cheers,
Seanan.
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its a lot easier just to put a small radiator up the front . you add extra cooling with the pipes running under the pan.
just open a bonnet on any car in summer and feel the heat coming off of the radiator and hoses.  you want to add all that 100deg heat to the back of your car where's there not very good air flow.
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vlad01
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| posted on January 26th, 2014 at 06:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by stilson
PM sent vlad.
Thanks Ian, already have engine and hope to successfully run a rear rad setup (haha we'll see!)
Cheers,
Seanan.
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PM sent yesterday.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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lou0060
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| posted on February 3rd, 2014 at 06:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by stilson
PM sent vlad.
Thanks Ian, already have engine and hope to successfully run a rear rad setup (haha we'll see!)
Cheers,
Seanan.
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I'm running a rear rad and I doubt you could get any better flow than what I have. If I had to do it again i would go front mount. In fact this
might be my 2014 project. ( I can hear them all laughing now......)
1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising 
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust 
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief 
1960 beetle - old school low & slow  |
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stilson
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| posted on February 7th, 2014 at 09:00 PM |
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Got a link to any pics mate?
I can't go front mount because I don't want to drag dust into my hood offroad as all my sleeping gear goes in there. Pls my spare wheel goes in
there etc...
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nils
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| posted on February 8th, 2014 at 08:33 AM |
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Hi seanan, you mentioned your beetle was semi off road. So it is full body ?
Quit calling rust patina
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Joel
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| posted on February 8th, 2014 at 04:13 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by stilson
I can't go front mount because I don't want to drag dust into my hood offroad as all my sleeping gear goes in there. Pls my spare wheel goes in
there etc...
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With a front mount the radiator needs to be sealed off from the boot anyway so you dont get dust and heat coming through the dash as well as getting
into the boot,
In a standard beetle something like this:
What you will have to remember with one in the back is your fans will be running alot and they will be pulling in all the dust from not only the front
wheels but off the back as well and dragging it through the radiator.
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stilson
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| posted on February 9th, 2014 at 10:59 AM |
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Yeah nils it's full body.
Ahh that makes sense Joel, I am a stubborn prick but I'm warming to the idea/starting to see reason.
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Shuffs
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| posted on February 9th, 2014 at 11:54 AM |
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| Quote: | | Quote: | | Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
| Quote: | Originally
posted by stilson
I can't go front mount because I don't want to drag dust into my hood offroad as all my sleeping gear goes in there. Pls my spare wheel goes in
there etc...
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With a front mount the radiator needs to be sealed off from the boot anyway so you dont get dust and heat coming through the dash as well as getting
into the boot,
In a standard beetle something like this:
What you will have to remember with one in the back is your fans will be running alot and they will be pulling in all the dust from not only the front
wheels but off the back as well and dragging it through the radiator.
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I'm running a rear rad and I doubt you could get any better flow than what I have. If I had to do it again i would go front mount.
In fact this might be my 2014 project. ( I can hear them all laughing now......)
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Not only the dust,Joel,as Lou says,given hindsight he should have done a front mount,as I think his biggest problem is getting rid of the heat with an
enclosed rear end
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ian.mezz
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| posted on February 9th, 2014 at 08:16 PM |
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don't worry there will be a few people telling him we told you so 
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Baja Wes
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| posted on February 10th, 2014 at 10:02 PM |
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Hi Stilson,
I run a rear radiator set-up, it is ok. The front radiator position in front of the beam can be prone to damage offroad, you really have to lift it a
bit higher to get it safe and then it won't be under the body anymore.
If you haven't bought the engine yet, consider the EJ22. It is SOHC and will fit easier than a DOHC EJ20.
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stilson
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| posted on February 11th, 2014 at 01:00 AM |
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Thanks, yeah I'm still in two minds honestly. I think once I get it mocked up I can see how much space I have and where. I'm trying to find some
decent diagrams showing air pressure and flow. Where is your rad exactly?
I already have a SOHC EJ20.
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Baja Wes
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| posted on February 11th, 2014 at 07:11 AM |
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My radiator is above the transaxle, I cut out the luggage area behind the rear seat and turned it into a curved region. I had to cut the firewall
anyway because the V6 distributor and throttle body needed to pass through it. So I just kept cutting.
There is some more info about rear radiators in this thread;
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=104076&page=1
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stilson
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| posted on February 11th, 2014 at 12:41 PM |
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I like it, looks like it fits well.
I've read your page but haven't seen these pics before. What car did it come from?
Looking through air pressure simulations on openfoam the airflow from underneath to the low pressure void at the rear should be good and thermo fans
will take over at low speed and/or high load. I wonder how a full width rear mudflap would affect (increase) undercar pressure and aid flow.
Cutting and re shaping the firewall would also eliminate the need to reverse the intake manifold (I think?).
I do like the fact that I can carry the stock spare up front and see losing that position to a rad as a massive negative.
Is there anything you don't like about this setup?
Has it been adequate to cool your V6?
Does it pick up a lot of shit from under the car?
Cheers,
Seanan.
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Baja Wes
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| posted on February 12th, 2014 at 07:26 AM |
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Who's doing CFD on openfoam?
With the radiator where I have it, I initially had a problem with too much heat coming into the cabin. I have since insulated the area above the
radiator really well and it is now ok (I have the metal foil face with recycled cloth type insulation on the radiator side of the radiator cover, with
normally interior insulation and carpet on the inside also).
Driving around at 60-80kph it works fine, the thermo's don't come on much. Above 80kph the air mustn't be able to make the turn and come up through
the radiator, so the thermo's start working. Long runs at 110kph on the highway shows the water temp going up and down because of this. To fix this
problem I put a single small scoop on one swingarm to direct the air from under the car up to the radiator.
It works really well and it's much better on the highway. I even towed my bike trailer with 2 dirt bikes from Brisbane to Gympie and back with no
issues.
At the moment it has a problem with trying to run too cold when I have the air conditioning on because the condenser fan is the radiator fan, so the
air conditioning runs the thermo fans. I am running an electric water pump so it starts slowing down to stop it running too cool. The electric water
pump even with it's fancy electric controller isn't as good at maintaining the water temperature as an old fashion thermostat.
Offroad it is good as the radiator is up out of the way. The only issue is beach driving. When I drive on the beach I have to take the scoop off
otherwise it throws sandy water all over the radiator which eventually covers it in sand.
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Joel
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| posted on February 12th, 2014 at 12:03 PM |
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Haven't you got your condenser up front Wes?
Is your ECU just running the rad fans because of A/C request?
In mine natural road draft does the work 99% of the time so normal driving it was running the fans for no reason whenever it got A/C request so I
disabled that.
Later subis get around this by using the speed sensor to dictate fan operation, they don;t come on above a set speed.
I've got a trinary pressure switch for my A/C drier, it has a 3rd medium pressure switch so the condenser fan only run when the liquid line pressure
gets high enough which is only puttering around town in stop start traffic.
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Baja Wes
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| posted on February 12th, 2014 at 05:54 PM |
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Yeah, condenser up the front, but I use the Mazda ECU and Mazda thermofans on the radiator, so they do whatever the A/C wants. It doesn't know I
moved the A/C to the front.
I wired the condenser fan to a relay with runs off the A/C compressor wire.
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stilson
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| posted on March 7th, 2014 at 09:17 PM |
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RJes bell housing arrived, very nice looking bit of kit, all holes seem to line up well on testfit to motor.
Pics when and if iPhone comes back from visiting its maker.
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stilson
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| posted on April 3rd, 2014 at 02:28 PM |
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Swapped my kombi flywheel for beer this morning and discovered my ring gear is missing a few teeth.
Luckily the guy I bought it from had another trans and was good enough to give it to me.
Someone buy my type 1 1500 and trans so I can buy trans mount kit. 
Biting off more than I can chew...
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