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posted on February 2nd, 2014 at 07:39 PM
Dizzy Advance curve info
Gday.
I am hoping someone has info on the mechanical advance curve and vacuum can advance for this dizzy please, or where I could possibly find the
info.........
1973 "L" Bug 1584.
Ta muchly.
BRUTUS
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posted on February 3rd, 2014 at 09:49 AM
Isn't the JFUR4 the late type 3 1600 twin-carb. distributor? Not sure about the U in front though.
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posted on February 4th, 2014 at 06:45 PM
how much web searching have you done? I know the guy on the samba who recons early dizzys puts up the total advance of each carb and sure I've seen a
listing somewhere of other dizzy total advances.
As for the exact curve relative to vacuum and engine revs I dunno. SUN used to make dizzy curve readers. Maybe try and find one online.
madness is in the eye of the beholder
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posted on February 6th, 2014 at 05:38 AM
LOTS of web browsing. Nothing specific for this exact dizzy, but lots of suggestions (educated guesses, but still guesses) it's the same as 205ZB
(Mex).
I've seen the list you mention.
I'm going to check the weights and measure spring tensions then compare against my own Bosch dizzy notes (other models doesn't matter, it's all
weights, springs and baseplate distances really), but also against a 009 if I can find one to borrow. I think this dizzy is used in most Oz stuff for
post-72 1600s, so I'm sure results would be helpful to others too.
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posted on February 9th, 2014 at 04:33 PM
I've got one, it is made in Australia and its a slightly shorter overall height than the German made SVDA distributor. If yours is the same these
part numbers might be correct.
Cap 1 235 522 027. or 03 001. or GB514
Rotor 1 234 332 082. or GB524
Vac' Can 1237 121 …
Points GB529
Also, if its the smaller body, from my experience you might not be able to fit electronic points.
modnrod
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posted on February 9th, 2014 at 10:35 PM
Gday man, how you going?
Yeah, looks to be the same dizzy at a glance.
You can go electronic if you like and remove points by retro-fitting pick-ups from other Oz Bosch 4 cyl stuff I rekn, I've done it with Hemi six guts
in Holden Red dizzy for example (but NOT with these dizzy's, so not positive) , but if you use a HEI or Ford ignition module then the points only
carry 0.125A or so anyway, so even without a condensor they last forever.....well, nearly!
I still haven't got to stripping it down yet and measuring. *sigh* I will eventually.
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posted on February 18th, 2014 at 04:21 PM
IGNITION ADVANCE CURVE FOR 205Z DIZZY:-
(I did the above to help out the search engines! ).
I found it! Many, many thanks to Schultz Auto Electrical in Willetton, they have all the different Bosch dizzy info still on microfiche, and kindly
gave me the info over the phone so I could run up a quick graph to look at. http://www.schultzautomotive.com.au/
Thanks man! I've put it up here so hopefully others can find it too.
And here it is.......
It has 23 degrees or so total all in at 3600RPM, compared to a German 009 that has 20 degrees all in at 3000RPM or so, so a little bit lazier and more
total.
If you need to match it up to a mild cam like a (yuk!) Engle W100 or Engle W110 or a (YAY!!!!) Norris 352S, a 009 curve would work better because then
you could get a smooth idle at 10*BTDC but still have no more than 30* total, but they don't have vacuum advance, so your fuel economy and on/off
cruise throttle will suffer. If you want to match it up to a FK87 or some other nonsense ( ), no worries, just re-curve it.
Being a genuine Bosch dizzy the quality is good (and new bushes, etc are easy enough to get, post it to Schultz to do it for you!) and the spark
scatter would be minimal compared to a cheap Chinese thing, and of course there's all sorts of solder-blobbing, spring-changing, weight-trimming,
post-bending, parts tweaking that you can play with in the shed to your hearts content!
If you want a high-voltage output big enough to make you whack your head into the engine hatch when you grab the ignition leads, then there is also
the option of a HEI module swap-in, or also of course the Duraspark module swap-in (if you have blue blood not red.......). The standard points will
then rev happily past 6000 all day until the spring tension starts to die off, but since that takes (based on personal experience only) about
30000-40000km, you won't be changing or adjusting points very often, so relax.
I prefer the Duraspark personally, because it also has a wire that retards the spark 6*-8*electronically when activated, great for retarding spark for
easy starting, and also for other spark retarding stuff that secret squirrels like to do occasionally........
Probably best if we keep all this info to ourselves though, couldn't have people spending $300+ on a new dizzy, the same again on "race" modules,
and then more on assorted fluff if a can of carby clean, a box of springs and a $50 module will have the same end result!
).
), no worries, just re-curve it.
