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 Bizarre
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| posted on November 19th, 2014 at 06:54 AM |
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There is a good article on Kombi Klub
I will try and link
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Bizarre
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| posted on November 19th, 2014 at 07:01 AM |
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Have a read here
http://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/running-in-new-motor.49472/
Futue te ipsum!!!
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 tweety
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| posted on November 19th, 2014 at 01:46 PM |
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Thanks Bizzarre,
Info was "Gold". think I'll remove spark plags and coil lead and crank for a few seconds to get oil pressure up prior to starting.
Very informative.
Tony
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vlad01
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| posted on November 20th, 2014 at 06:04 PM |
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yes, plugs out and crank til oil light goes out and for good 30-60 sec more.
start and immediately bring to 2000 rpm or there about and hold it there for 15-20 min. This will break in the cam and initial break in for the rest
of the engine. This rpm heaps break the cam in and keeps it splashing with oil spray critical for break in.
Dump the break in oil and let it cool off for hour or so.
refill with new break in oil, fit new filter.
Start it, readjust anything if needed and proceed to break in.
Drive it with lost of varying rpms and loads. Do some standing starts flat stick to full rpm, allow overrun til a crawl. Repeat several times. Then
do the same but in a high gear and plant it of from just idle, really lug it to load the shit out of it and allow it to climb the rpm to max, repeat
couple of times.
Continue driving is various conditions, heaps of hills in different gears, lots of overrun. Don't be afraid to get the rpms happening.
Do this for 500km, dump the break in oil, readjust what ever is needed and fill with same brand oil, but normal running oil of correct grade.
You will notice the break in oil to have a metallic look to it, this is normal. Goes to being clean after break in, even after the first normal oil
change.
First normal oil change should be at a short interval, something like 1500km then normal intervals after that.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on November 20th, 2014 at 06:11 PM |
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oh yeah, dont pre-fill the oil filter on the first time. you'll have problems getting it primed.
it need to be dry so the oil pump can purge the air out of the oiling system without complications. You end up with an air lock between the oil pump
and filter thats a pita to overcome sometimes.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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tweety
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| posted on November 22nd, 2014 at 08:24 PM |
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Thanks for that Vlad.
I've written to Penrite. They told me that their running in oil is perfect for this process. They didnt tell me to dump it after initial run in with
another new filter but will take your advice as there will be lots of moly and filings in there.
They sent me this advice-
lubetech@penriteoil.com
Your enquiry:
Have a Subaru Brumby engine EA81 being totally rebuilt with rebore etc. New oil pump, asling what oil you would recommend. Older style design
engine, rockers, OHV, flat 4 etc. originally Subaru recommended 15W-40 when new. Synthetic??
Based on your enquiry regarding your vehicle our recommendation is:
Following the running in period (500 km on our Running In Oil SAE 15W-40) I'd go to a semi synthetic, rather than a full synthetic. HPR Diesel 15
fits the bill, despite the word "diesel". The diesel detergent properties will not be an issue in the "dirty, older engine" as it is clean and
new. Petrol rating is API SL, so this is fine for the engine given its year of manufacture. Another advantage of HPR Diesel 15 is its availability
-it's a widely used oil, with lots of protective zinc.
You can go synthetic later on perhaps.
Regards,
Alan Jeffery
Now I think that is good service. Also I knew the Penrite owner Mark Diamond via his mechanic in the 1980's and they are one well oiled company.
pun intended. lol FYI Mark raced one of 25 AC aces (pre cobra) cars in Oz and USA. He had a Ford Zephyr engine and Toyota 5 speed. I owned Zepyrs at
the time. Cheers
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vlad01
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| posted on December 4th, 2014 at 11:56 PM |
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yeah I still would dump it on initial cam run in and then go with the 500km interval like they said on the 2nd fill of run in.
Being a flat tappet engine older style I'd expect more wear metals to be present in the first run than a more modern low friction engine design such
as roller rockers, roller lifters etc... Hence the cam run in dump oil. I dont think having too much metal is good for the rest of the run in.
unrelated but interesting anyway. I have re-broken in 2nd hand engines which were not officially broken in by factory and certainly a granny owner
wouldn't break em in properly.
when I fill with the penrite break in oil.
2 things I try to achieve.
flush out old incompatible oil and its additive chemicals, as run in oil is only zinc additives and not much else. Its basically base stock oil.
run in the engine to my operating conditions 
Amazingly the engines always show clear signs of breaking in even though they may already have 100,000 on them. certain components in the engine
flex, move, load up different if the engine is really put though its paces compared to if its only putted around.
I get that classic break in metallic oil on the first to second dump and it clears to nothing normally by 2nd or 3rd oil change. Get a UOA done after
its settled and results show perfectly low wear rates and engines of mine goes years of abuse to live 300+ and counting.
gearboxes do the same for me, they produce metallic oil on the first run and come clean from 2nd onward. but i dont run anything than normal oil in
them 1st and then with teflon additive there after so i guess they get stressed pretty hard then lol.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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tweety
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| posted on December 5th, 2014 at 07:08 PM |
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Yep,
Worth the few dollars for another 4 litres of run in oil after cam break in.
Appreciate the advice. Looking good for Feb to buy the Porsche radiator and 6" fans.
Tony
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tweety
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| posted on December 18th, 2014 at 07:59 PM |
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Engine running. Once we figured out the dizzy was 180 degrees out that is. Anyway here is a video of it running.
Start really easy. Early indications are that jetting is either correct or near to right. low down torque is apparent. wont know much more for a
while.
[IMG]http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy330/eaglefree/th_MVI_0054.mp4[/IMG]
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vlad01
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| posted on December 20th, 2014 at 04:17 PM |
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nice!
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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tweety
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| posted on January 24th, 2015 at 08:55 PM |
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Running in has finished. Done about 1100 kms. Still varying speed though. Running rich so needs a tune. Instant starting with the choke then choke off
after 10 seconds and can idle nicely. Gee its nice to have an engine that idles the same faultless way everytime.
Economy, bearing in mind I've been running it in but 26 mpg is impressive for me. Likely easily hit 30 mpg once loosened up.
Have now got engineers report. No hiccups there. Engineer had to do a "stability test to find out the angle of the balance point. In Tweety's case
it was 62 degrees. Something required for ADR's for trikes. Trike weighs 660 kgms.
Ready for a trip up the mountains
The engine has a lot more low down torque with that 38/38 carb and torquey cam. Mid range power has increased. Top end- dont know yet, havent tried.
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tweety
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| posted on February 9th, 2015 at 08:06 PM |
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Just an update for those following this thread.
I have known the 38/38 carbie is running rich at all revs. I'm not wanting to fiddle with float levels etc, rather Weber performance give it a dyno
and fix it all at once.
We headed off for a trip from Euroa Vic to Mt Kozzy, Batemans Bays, Orbost and Mt Hotham then home. We towed a 300 GVM motorcycle camper trailer and
trike now weighs 660 kgms. So total weigh is around the same as a Brumby ute = 1 ton. But this is a VW auto and a larger carbie than the 32/36
commonly used, larger manifold from a SPFI USA model and wind resistance of the trike roof.
And all those hills. But was very impressed with the recoed EA81. economy ranged from 10.3 to 11.1 L/100 kms or 25-28mpg. Very good result.
Power seemed disappointing at higher revs. Then when we got home I discovered that the two gears of the carbie throats were touching the new adapter.
About 75% throttle only. Ground away some alloy and boy- revs out nicely indeed.
Another issue I had was the auto kickdown. The VW unit has both vacuum and electric. My electric unit switched on at half throttle making it compete
with the vacuum unit so hunting gears was annoying. Adjusted the switch to come on only at full throttle seemed to have fixe dit.
Went for a ride without towing for a picnic at Yea welands on Sunday. Achieved 8.7 L/100kms or 32.5 mpg. This gives the 48 litre tank a range of 550
kms. Which is really good. My 1916 would not get over 420, the supercharged version of this EA81 210kms (slurpy) and the sPFI version 380kms although
the SPFI version had faulty internals.
All in all it was worth the work to get the reco, higher compression, 38/38 carbie and larger manifold.
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vlad01
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| posted on February 10th, 2015 at 12:20 PM |
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very good!
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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bevelhead
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| posted on February 14th, 2015 at 09:58 PM |
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Pity you weren't doing the blower setup now that everything is rebuilt and sorted, nice work.
Just out of interest I have an ea81 in my kombi with a progressive and never had an issue, I think they are a great little carb, bus will sit on 120
with 30x9.50 tyres stock gearing, sounds like a Cessna with the twin straight thru pipes 
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 15th, 2015 at 09:30 AM |
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660 kg's is a lot of weight for a motor/trans and 3 wheels? That's only 100 kg's lighter than a 6 volt Beetle.
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tweety
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| posted on February 16th, 2015 at 09:08 PM |
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The supercharger drank too much fuel and was hard to dyno successfully to get it running efficiently at all revs. Nothing beats a factory set up
blower. It was fun at the time. It lifted the front wheel easily but no one saw it due to the black smoke and raw fuel out the exhausts lol
My ea81 has the sPFI manifold being 6mm larger in diameter. Add the 38/38 weber and it was a real gamble if it ran well and response was better. it
was a success but I also dont know if the new cam a 16/56 (I think) high torque at low revs contributed a lot to this. Obviously better breathing, two
throats operating all the time, 9.5 CR and short exhausts all help.
These trikes prior to 2011 were not allowed to go over 450 kgms then the restriction was abolished allowing imports weighing 700 kgms or so (Ford
focus or Peugeot engines. Boom trikes and Touroz are the two in mind. I recall those days and how Tweety would hop over bumps. Now ithe suspension
(airbags) works much better with the added weight. The important thing was the roof was constructed with the C of G not changed. And dig this, there
is only 65 kgms downforce on the front wheel.
Now the engine needs a tune with jetting only (rich). But we went over the mountains from Vic to Cooma, batemans bay and Orbost then Euroa. Towing
300kgms camper (about a ton all up weight) we got 10.3-11.1 L/100 kms or 25-28mpg. I was reasonably happy with its performance BUT I didnt realise
until we got home that the two small gears on the carbie throttle were hitting the custom adapter. I only had 3/4 throttle. And man did that make a
difference!! Consider that the original 1916 never achieved those economy figures without towing. But I'm not on here to turn you guys away from your
babies...
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vlad01
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| posted on February 17th, 2015 at 05:20 PM |
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yeah you'll never get good economy out of a SC setup due to parasitic losses. Turbo you certainly can, and even improve economy further as it does
in a way recover lost energy from exhaust heat and uses that to improve volumetric efficient and overcome some pumping losses. Oh and increase thermal
efficiency via boost.
thats why turbo 4 cyl today get such great economy and power to boot.
Anyway this little adventure of yours really did come out with great results.
i've been digging this thread, everything just done so well and out of the box thinking.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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tweety
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| posted on February 24th, 2015 at 07:50 PM |
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Thanks vlad01.
Strange how everything changes when you retire. I ran a business for 18 years. So a lot of items were deductible etc. But when you retire you ahve
different priorities. Reliability so you can board your vehicle anytime and drive/ride. 40 years with my head under bonnets has come to a close-
almost.
I love the tinkering. Tweety is always a project in action. A different more efficient windscreen, another sunroof etc. But it is comforting that the
engine is soooo nice and strong. Start up with half choke- immediate start, off with the choke and idles perfectly. Suppose the 9.5:1 CR has a lot to
do with that.
Now to the garden. And thats what retirement is like- a mix of activities. Make sure you guys have damn good engines in your vehicles when you retire
because engine woes is not what you want.
Now we tour around. We just got home from Portland. 2 weeks ago Batemans Bay. Tweety is like a magnet for people. I do get tired of the questions.
Thats how it is though.
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vlad01
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| posted on February 24th, 2015 at 10:32 PM |
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I only started my working life few or so years ago and I already focus on reliability and tinker free engines and vehicles.
But I'll be under the bonnet for long time, finish one car, move to the next and not have to touch the one before it for years to come lol. Only
problem doing it this way is its frustration free and you run out of space quick lol
Something most satisfying having something you built that you just can't kill or fault for years and years. Looks like your trike will be like that
from now on. Enjoy it!
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vduboy
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| posted on March 4th, 2015 at 08:38 PM |
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Enjoyed the read mate, congrats on getting your ride all sorted and happy! Would be a big weight off your shoulders I reckon.
It will all be OK in the end, if it's not OK it's not the end!
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tweety
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| posted on March 7th, 2015 at 08:05 PM |
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Thankyou also for reading the thread.
The trike engine is well and truly broken in. That little ea81 is a nice little donk. If you dont need a kick in the back performance otherwise go EJ.
If the ea81 has really good CR 9.5:1 good breathing (the optional at the time twin carb) or larger SPFI manifold etc and its running "on song" it
has enough power. If it was a 4 speed manual it would have "more" than enough power for this weight of 660kgms and a early beetle. And being of the
older generation it is easy to maintain myself.
And that was the original objective. The fuel consuption was all along done with fingers crossed but it is clear that without the right carbie jets
I'm getting 10.3-11.5 L/100kms and thats impressive with an auto towing a camper.
Thanks again. Feedback is a nice thing to get.
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