| [ Total Views: 1246 | Total Replies: 24 | Thread Id: 106859 ] |
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 Paul Smith
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 08:00 PM |
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Mexican Seal
I've heard a Mexican style seal can be used instead of the standard PITA around the boot lid. Where in Aus can I buy one? Does the standard channel
that the original type seal sits in have to be removed and if so how?
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vwo60
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 08:40 PM |
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You can buy a welting that has a rubber seal on one side from Clark Rubber, it comes in two sizes and I have used the smaller size as a inner seal on
my pop out rear windows and would fit your application perfectly.
http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/rubber-and-flooring/rubber-extrusions-3/pinchwe...
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Paul Smith
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 08:46 PM |
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There are 13 options on that page. Which one are you referring to?
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 Bizarre
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 09:02 PM |
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i used one that looked like this
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 09:05 PM |
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probably #8 or #12
Futue te ipsum!!!
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grumble
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 09:16 PM |
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I have a couple of door rubbers from a Lada Niva with a similar profile PM if interested.
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modnrod
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 10:14 PM |
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XD-XF Falcon door rubbers can be used too, but Clark Rubber is cheap.
More options.......
http://uesint.com/shop/category/rubber-truck-trailer-emergency-vehicles/
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hulbyw
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 10:20 PM |
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Paul, I am looking at doing the same, however I understand you need the original style seal across the bonnet in front of the screen, as there is no
flange on the rear of the bonnet to attach the Mex seal to in that area.
I also understand the original channel needs to be removed (drill out the spot welds with a special drill bit) except across in front of the screen,
however I am hoping someone else can confirm this
Cheers..........Wayne
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Governor
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| posted on August 12th, 2014 at 10:28 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hulbyw
Paul, I am looking at doing the same, however I understand you need the original style seal across the bonnet in front of the screen, as there is no
flange on the rear of the bonnet to attach the Mex seal to in that area.
I also understand the original channel needs to be removed (drill out the spot welds with a special drill bit) except across in front of the screen,
however I am hoping someone else can confirm this
Cheers..........Wayne
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Yes you are correct, you still need the original seal for the rear as the Mexican style just fits to the actual bonnet and will not fit on the edge
closest to the screen.
You will also have to remove the original metal channel on the body so the new seal will actually seal.
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 vw54
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 07:35 AM |
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If you want one cut to size and posted to you ring VVDS 02-9789-1777
they have the right stuff on the shelf
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 08:13 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hulbyw
Paul, I am looking at doing the same, however I understand you need the original style seal across the bonnet in front of the screen, as there is no
flange on the rear of the bonnet to attach the Mex seal to in that area.
I also understand the original channel needs to be removed (drill out the spot welds with a special drill bit) except across in front of the screen,
however I am hoping someone else can confirm this
Cheers..........Wayne
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I disagree.
First of all, you don't need to drill it out. Just pry a bit up and get hold with a pair of plyers and pull. Weakest spot welds ever.
As for the top lip. Get rid of it. That is the seal that rusts the most and eats into the body.
Clean it up and preferably weld up the 2 holes that "lock / hold" the seal to stop ingress of water. A strip of rubber say 20mm X 3mm stuck across
the top seals beautifully.
My bug lived outside 24/7 and was the most waterproof with this set up.
Futue te ipsum!!!
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vw54
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 08:20 AM |
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Baz
I have used the origional type seal cut down on the top scuttle
never had any problems with it sits nice been there for 12 years now
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 09:19 AM |
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Dave, I am positive your babies live under cover. The only time my cars see cover is when I fill up with petrol.
That to seal, especially on later models, is notorious for rotting out on that top seal in front of the screen. Muck gets under that channel and just
sits there.
If your car lives out side you are better to get rid of anything that is likely to promote rust
Futue te ipsum!!!
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vwo60
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 01:07 PM |
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http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/pinchweld-epdm-rub-ex-lge-depth-bulb.html
This is the one I used on my pop outs, measure up ands select the one for your job.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 03:10 PM |
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Hi Paul
I actually bought Mine from VVDS in Sydney when I first heard of them..
but its the same as the Clark rubber etc type..
I have had an original WCM new seal in a cupboard since 2002
I just used silastic or some other similar material to block up the two holes..
I do have a strip of black foamy material across the top..
I took the rusty channels off before it was painted..
Never had any water in the boot problems...
Also use the mexican type seal on the engine lid..
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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vw54
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 05:20 PM |
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| Quote: |
That to seal, especially on later models,
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Get a Torsion bar car then you wont have any problems all those struts banging around causing distortion in the body work
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Paul Smith
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 06:01 PM |
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Thanks guys. Very good info. 
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matberry
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 06:33 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
| Quote: |
That to seal, especially on later models,
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Get a Torsion bar car then you wont have any problems all those struts banging around causing distortion in the body work
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Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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hulbyw
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 10:24 PM |
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I am glad Paul asked this question. As usual I have learned heaps. Not sure whether I am brave enough to just pry then yank the rusty channel with
pliers though. But they have to go, one way or another.
Cheers....Wayne
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on August 13th, 2014 at 11:33 PM |
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I would use a belt sander, also called a power file to remove the channel. They come in air and electric models. I believe Bunnings have a cheap
electric Ryobi verson available called a power file
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 14th, 2014 at 07:09 AM |
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It will scare you how easily they came off
Have a look at my old car below
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=36756&page=3
Note what I did in pictures is not how it ended up after I sprayed it
I will try and dig a photo up of that
Futue te ipsum!!!
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vw54
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| posted on August 14th, 2014 at 07:27 AM |
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the origional seal channel does come off easy
BUT take care or you will bend the scuttle section sanding would be better option
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Joel
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| posted on August 14th, 2014 at 12:57 PM |
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My bugs "Mexi seal" is just a mid 90s onwards Mazda boot rubber.
You can find them free at most wreckers
Along the front of the windscreen in the boot they can just be glued down if you want to get rid of the rust strip.
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cam070
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| posted on August 16th, 2014 at 01:29 PM |
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I just used an old flat blade screwdriver in a chisel-like manner and hammer to remove the seal channel. It was surprisingly easy and revealed more
rust spots that you would not otherwise even be aware of. Well worth the effort if you are going to the trouble of getting rid of rust.
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 16th, 2014 at 02:05 PM |
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the underside of what the strip will look like
Futue te ipsum!!!
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