| [ Total Views: 1123 | Total Replies: 18 | Thread Id: 107404 ] |
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 donn
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 01:23 PM |
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workshop floor finish
Well after 30+ years the concrete floor in my garage / workshop is looking kinda sad, what with paint spills and places where vehicled have marked
their spot over the years (not all dubs, a Renault was the worst offender ) plus other marks of significance it's now time to make it look more presentable and hopefully easier to clean. While my
preference would be ceramic tiles the large area makes that option cost prohibitive, a painted surface would do the job but I have had that before
(forgoten the brand but a common type specificaly for painting concrete) and it actually wore off after a few years, maybe sheet vinyl , that would
cost but it would be easy to clean as long as it will stand up to driving vehicles over it, I'm wondering if it would stretch under the compresion of
constant vehicle trafic.
So....... what have you got or had that either did oir didn't do the job, maybe there's a system (two part maybe?) that will stand up to constant
abuse and is easy to keep clean. I've been researching on the interweb but all systems / materials I've found are recomended highly by the
manufacturer, surprising I know, but they really are all "the best on the market" .
All comments would be appreciated. The area is around 130m2 but with very little ventilation.
Thanks
Don
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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modulus
A.k.a.: Peter Hill
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 04:56 PM |
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I suggest cream shag-pile carpet. It will be quiet, kind to dropped tools and parts and will encourage you to get your oil seals just right.
hth
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donn
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 05:25 PM |
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Thanks Peter, carpet sounds ok but not sure about the shag pile, in days gone by shaving on the carpet was ok but now that I'm an ancient bugger I
kinda look for a bit more comfort, though you are correct about it being a bit more quiet, but that's not such a requisite these days either 
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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beetleboyjeff
A.k.a.: Jeff Walsh
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 08:50 PM |
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How about polished concrete - hire the gear and do it yourself maybe
From your ole' mate Jeff
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grinderman
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 09:21 PM |
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For a good finish with little prep and a reasonable price, grab a drum of berger jet dry garage floor formula (2 coats) and let it dry for 24 hours
before doing burnouts and stuff
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vlad01
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 09:26 PM |
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I got a semi burnt finish on my slab when it was done few years ago. Should of got fully burnt finish and then it would be a like a bunning store
floor.
Still, its very easy to clean my floor. I was going to epoxy it but I think the burnout marks give it character 
I was smart and place a large board of corflute under my notch to catch the drips as soon as I got the slab done.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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modnrod
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 09:41 PM |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EalqlDjTnPw
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donn
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 11:06 PM |
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Now why didn't I think of that LMAO
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 11:09 PM |
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I spoke to a guy doing floors here. He said they, coat heavily and while wet add a sand until it won't take any more. Wait for it to dry thoroughly
sweep off any excess then redcoats the top.
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on October 14th, 2014 at 11:10 PM |
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Some sort of epoxy floor coating.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on October 15th, 2014 at 02:18 PM |
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Hi
I've seen some finishers lift off when you drive in with wet tyres, as the tyre dries it lifts the paint, so be careful what you use.
Steve
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LUFTMEISTER
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| posted on October 15th, 2014 at 02:36 PM |
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Heat sink is the major problem with floor coatings. Hot tyres parked in the same spot for long times lifts the coating. Polished is probaly the best
after sealing.
Customer service is not dead in Australia.
Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools
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Euro_67
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| posted on October 15th, 2014 at 08:54 PM |
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I like the PVC interlocking tiles. Easy to clean, and if you damage one easy enough to replace.
There are may different versions
http://www.carpettiles1.com.au/pvcinterlockingtilesProduct-detail.php?Pid=1&a...
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h
A.k.a.: Towely BuMpEr KING! ILLegal ALIEN on a roadtrip
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| posted on October 16th, 2014 at 06:45 AM |
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tile it and it's done,, save ya cash and sell the caddy :P
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Davin
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| posted on October 17th, 2014 at 05:04 PM |
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I had my shed floor done about five years ago in epoxy and it has been fantastic. The floor was 20 years old with the usual collection of stains and
oil. They used a rotary polisher to grind it a little then they applied two coats of epoxy over two days. It still cleans up beautifully with a broom
or mop and is impervious to solvents like oil, petrol, kero, thinners etc. Cost was about $3200 all up for a 9m x 9m shed.
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vlad01
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| posted on October 17th, 2014 at 05:22 PM |
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^ thats why i never did it, my shed would cost probably 10K then, which is more than the slab lol
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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AA003
A.k.a.: Phill
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| posted on October 17th, 2014 at 05:56 PM |
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I put up Berger, Dulux etc for 30 years. A waste of time. Wet tyres stuffs it. This time I had a professional do it with epoxy. 120sqm cost around
$6k. I'll see how it goes.
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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mactaylor
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| posted on October 18th, 2014 at 05:48 AM |
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jotacote 605 is good, we use it in our sewage tanks and industrial floors. not cheap but one of the best.
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
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Imac
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| posted on November 1st, 2014 at 08:51 AM |
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I have some Amour floor left over from a job It's an epoxy base coat, sand or paint chip texture and colour and a polyaspartic clear top coat, very
pretty and extremely durable, goggle it and PM me if needed
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