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Author: Subject:  Who has recently gotten their VW resprayed?
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posted on April 12th, 2015 at 05:27 PM
Who has recently gotten their VW resprayed?


Hey all,

Im going to be sending the VW Type 3 Squareback off to a shop to get panels fixed and get it resprayed. Does anyone have people that they can recommend for these types of jobs and touch old cars with a bit of rust (Not much, just the few spots here and there) and is willing to do cut and weld jobs? Also, how much did it cost to get your car redone? Just looking at a ball park figure for my VW and i would like to spend no more than $5000. Anyone who is also reputable on gumtree for backyard jobs? Any workshops? Im based in Edens landing/Beenleigh and can travel to Yatala and such or Loganholme.

[size=5]CLOSED DOOR RESPRAY ONLY[/size]

Here are some pics of the type 3.
http://i.imgur.com/jxT6ock.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ac6TlKx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TtgWccN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5dHU8Md.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2T9lytA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MdWYMg5.jpg

This is what i would like the type 3 to look like. Preferrably a 2pac.
http://i.imgur.com/LbDATfn.jpg

Also there is a cut and weld job thats needed for under the passenger side rear wheel well.

Thanks Dubbers!
Nick




*1970 Type 3 Squareback - Nicknamed "Sparks" - AIRBAG SUSPENSION COMING SOON!
CLASSIC NOT PLASTIC!
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posted on April 12th, 2015 at 07:09 PM



I will have to honest here.

You can get a respray for $5K

However, do not be under any delusion that you will get a perfect job. It will have ripples, it will have imperfections, it will be painted with hopefully a reasonable brand paint product. It will have some rust or paint imerfections showing after anywhere from 6 months to 5 years.

Nobody can guarantee a paintjob unless the entire car is tripped to a shell, media and chemically stripped of all original paint, then epoxy coated. There is $5K before any rust, panel repairs or paint work.

Mind you that is a starting point to do it really properly. Then things continue, and again depending on the finish you can get $20K pricerange.

So just remember your budget, finish expectations and your workmanship warranty. Ask the repairer heaps of questions. Communicate and make sure they understand your expectations. Be reasonable about hidden unexpected problems. If they cut out a piece to fix rust and underneath there is another hidden panel with a hole, then that will be extra.




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posted on April 12th, 2015 at 09:45 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by helbus
I will have to honest here.

You can get a respray for $5K

However, do not be under any delusion that you will get a perfect job. It will have ripples, it will have imperfections, it will be painted with hopefully a reasonable brand paint product. It will have some rust or paint imerfections showing after anywhere from 6 months to 5 years.

Nobody can guarantee a paintjob unless the entire car is tripped to a shell, media and chemically stripped of all original paint, then epoxy coated. There is $5K before any rust, panel repairs or paint work.

Mind you that is a starting point to do it really properly. Then things continue, and again depending on the finish you can get $20K pricerange.

So just remember your budget, finish expectations and your workmanship warranty. Ask the repairer heaps of questions. Communicate and make sure they understand your expectations. Be reasonable about hidden unexpected problems. If they cut out a piece to fix rust and underneath there is another hidden panel with a hole, then that will be extra.


Fully understand. Thank you for your tips! Will definitely ask LOTS of questions as this will be the first respray i ever pay for. Im not expecting SHOW quality and MINT paint. Just something respectable/neat and NOT OXIDISING! Haha! Gotta preserve that metal. Ive got someone coming to look and quote next weekend so we will see what they have to say. As for imperfections, there is TONS on this paint job and such. I just hope the paint job lasts more than 5 months :S

ALSO!

What can i do to keep prices down and paint quality high. Taking parts off the car reduces labour and such? What can be removed from the car and done to reduce the cost so they dont have to do it.




*1970 Type 3 Squareback - Nicknamed "Sparks" - AIRBAG SUSPENSION COMING SOON!
CLASSIC NOT PLASTIC!
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posted on April 12th, 2015 at 10:00 PM



Strip everthing - windows, lights, badges, wipers, strips.

Dont tape anything. Front doors are the biggest pain but it doesnt take THAT effort

Door rubbers / scrapers are cheap. Well for beetles they are




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posted on April 12th, 2015 at 10:28 PM



Being a closed door respray, and two tone. You can strip all the parts yourself, and definitley take out all the windows and any other parts that bolt on the outside. Any respray where parts are masked up and it shows, makes it look cheap, and will always be noticed by those that know.

Get a reasonable brand of paint like DeBeer, Standox, DuPont, Spies Hecker, PPG etc. Being solid colours, not metallic, it can be painted in 2K (2Pac), however clear over base (COB) would also be good. Your colour transition is at the body strip moulds, so 2K is also fine. If it is 2K or COB, it will not oxidise. The clear on COB is 2K anyway, just clear. Most higher quality paint jobs are COB, they rub and polish better. 2K jobs hide imperfections better.

One thing that you should not accept no matter how much you pay for the job is paint runs. A cheaper job may have a bit more texture or orange peel, as high end paint jobs get rubbed back and polished or a second flow coat. You pay more for that. But runs are not acceptable.




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posted on April 13th, 2015 at 07:24 AM



Have to agree with everything stated above- strip it down - take off front guards and quarter panels - they are not painted on the inside so it it's an opportunity to get at least a coat of sealer on them - you probably will find some more rust to neutralise under there as well.

My advice would be to be careful when stripping down - if you can save anything decent (eq window rubbers, scrapers, fender beading,door handle seals etc) then do it - I went hell for leather when I stripped mine - tossed it all out - and thought I would just replace everything. You can buy replacement parts, but a lot of it is rubbish and no where near the fit or quality of the original. I'm still chasing some decent replacement parts

A bloke at Redland Bay did the paint on my notch (http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=104502&page=2
- He's down your way. My car cost more than the $5K budget you have set yourself - but he is open to some negotiation and may be able to complete work according to your budget. Let me know if you want his details.
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posted on April 13th, 2015 at 10:16 AM



Check this for some inspiration




http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=102653 




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posted on April 13th, 2015 at 09:41 PM



I agree , a summernats top 20 winner is going to cost you $50,000 and an el crapo pressure pack can job will cost you $50. I think you will find a spray painter at the right price as long as you make it easy for them by stripping the trim off the car. If it's a standard sand/prime/paint job with minimal welding then I would do some initial sanding as well.
If I had some shed space I would hook you up with a clean respray under your budget. :tu:
If you are going to do some disassembly make sure you label everything and keep it all together !
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posted on April 17th, 2015 at 07:23 AM



Take photos of everything as you strip, and note it down in a book with photo reference, part name and where you put it. I use boxes (banana boxes are great, they stack, their large enough for most parts and the good ones are waxed so they don't break down so quickly. Try your local green grocer) and put all the parts from one part of the car in one box - ie Interior, Under bonnet, Exterior Trim. Label the part, put screws, clips and little bits in sandwich bags or small containers. Label the boxes and store them together. Don't throw anything out, even broken bits, you may need them to find replacements later.
It all may sound anal, but in 6 months or a year it will make sense.
19 years down the track when your looking for that clip from the back seat you pulled out you hopefully will find it! (Don't laugh, my Monaro still hasn't been worked on! 1996 - 2015!)




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posted on April 18th, 2015 at 06:14 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by grinderman

If I had some shed space I would hook you up with a clean respray under your budget. :tu:



That's a very generous offer you have put out there grinder man.
:tu:
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posted on April 18th, 2015 at 06:42 PM



How are you going with this ? Got yourself a panel beater/painter yet?
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posted on April 18th, 2015 at 10:40 PM



@hpnotch - I have yet to find a panel shop to spray paint it. Most shops around beenleigh wont touch it due to its age. Some will though and i have to plan a day and put the car on a trailer and knock out the quotes in a day. See who can offer the best.

@grinderman - Thats so generous of you! Muchly appreciated! Thank you for the wise advise. Completely Thankful :D

@wombatventures - Thanks for the tips! Ive labelled all the parts ive taken off so its easier during the reassemble process.

@donn - That's sick as!

@helbus - You've been a MAJOR help on the introduction to vehicle paints. Thank you so much for the advice. All brands have been noted down to ensure the workshops stock quality paints that i appove of.




*1970 Type 3 Squareback - Nicknamed "Sparks" - AIRBAG SUSPENSION COMING SOON!
CLASSIC NOT PLASTIC!
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posted on April 20th, 2015 at 03:42 PM



So pricing around, the El-crapo jobs are about 5k to 6k. Thats painting around everything... So there is a place out at Beenleigh called B and M Smash Repairs that said the guy would buy all new rubbers and paint it like its immaculate for 13k. He said he's done plenty of VW's and oldies and they've got show car awards and summernats awards in their office. That was closed door with removing all panels and replacing the entire rubbers and rust repairs. 2 pac with 2 tone and COB. Im thinking that maybe i should invest in a high end paint job because later on down the track as "helbus" said. It's better forking out the 13k and having it with a lifetime warranty (As what the quoter specifically said and promised) then getting another 5k job done in 6 months to 2 years. Its just figuring out if i can repay the loan for the spray job (Goddamn retail jobs).

Places I've visited so far:
B and M Smash Repairs - Beenleigh QUOTED: 10k but 13k to be safe with hidden bad stuff and fresh rubbers.
Main Street Smash Repairs - Beenleigh QUOTED: Owner wasn't in the office so they were willing to remote quote via email and pics.
Cam's Panel and Paint - Waterford QUOTED: 5k but el-cheapo paint job and painting over beading and taping up all windows and no removing of parts
Colour Smart Panel and Paint - Yatala QUOTED: 6k but i had to remove all the parts prior to arriving and had to re-bolt everything back onto the car as they had never done a Type 3 before and didn't know how
Bayer Smash Repairs QUOTED: Wern't interested as they dont really do resto jobs but more smash work and insurance claims.

*NOTE: Ive found that the smaller workshops are happier doing these cars rather than the bigger mobs which are more interested in insurance big dogs and fast smash work for more profit.




*1970 Type 3 Squareback - Nicknamed "Sparks" - AIRBAG SUSPENSION COMING SOON!
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posted on April 20th, 2015 at 07:48 PM



What happens with the big shops, is that the major insurance companies will send them lots of work. It has to be done according to the insurance companies pricing structure. So the only chance to make profit is large numbers of repairs done quickly with cost effective materials. New cars are only expected to last 10 years, however many more don't last that long with the original owner. The average would be 5 years. So the major insurance smash repair 'lifetime warranty' is really only based on the paintwork lasting 5 years. The few claims they get for warranty are already factored into the pricing structure. For example if an insurance company says there is 20 hours labour in repairing a car, they will pay $23 an hour, so $460. It costs about $80-100 per hour to run a panel shop, so you have to cut corners to make a profit. The panel shop will have to repair the 20 hour labour car with about 5 hours labour to make the profit.



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posted on April 21st, 2015 at 10:02 PM



Hmm - if you strip it down I reckon you would get a decent full respray (that's matching colour on inside door surfaces, pillars and dash) for well under 13 k. (Of course it also depends on how much rust repairs need to be done). This is how I took my vehicle to get resprayed.I then bought the new rubbers etc and finished the job - I think you'll find that's how most owners on here did their resto's. It might be worth going back to B and M and asking for a price on a stripped vehicle.

Just my 2 cents....
( have you tried Andrew - he's the bloke who did my paint and panel - replied to your pm with his details)

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