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 Growler
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| posted on February 13th, 2016 at 07:22 PM |
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Growlers Gunna build a Baja
G'day everyone. Hoping to own my first VW within the next few days. Plan is to build up a Baja. Im looking at a 76 and a 73 model tomorrow. I want it
for off road but also as a part time daily. I was down at Loveday 4x4 adventures recently and my Patrol copped some new bush pinstripes and a smashed
wing mirror which got me thinking about a Baja, smaller, lighter and maybe quicker on the tight tracks. The tracks do have some jumps but i wont be
doing anything extreme extreme just some of the smaller jumps, its a trophy truck, can-am, buggy track. Ill pick everyones brains for suspension
upgrades as i go along.
First question. Has anyone used a SCAT rebuild kit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-Beetle-SCAT-ENGINE-rebuild-KITS-1835-cc-/321982... Is upgrading from a 1600 to a 1835 a case of
using this kit in a standard 1600 engine case. And using the heads etc from the 1600?
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on February 15th, 2016 at 12:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Growler
G'day everyone. Hoping to own my first VW within the next few days. Plan is to build up a Baja. Im looking at a 76 and a 73 model tomorrow. I want it
for off road but also as a part time daily. I was down at Loveday 4x4 adventures recently and my Patrol copped some new bush pinstripes and a smashed
wing mirror which got me thinking about a Baja, smaller, lighter and maybe quicker on the tight tracks. The tracks do have some jumps but i wont be
doing anything extreme extreme just some of the smaller jumps, its a trophy truck, can-am, buggy track. Ill pick everyones brains for suspension
upgrades as i go along.
First question. Has anyone used a SCAT rebuild kit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-Beetle-SCAT-ENGINE-rebuild-KITS-1835-cc-/321982... Is upgrading from a 1600 to a 1835 a case of
using this kit in a standard 1600 engine case. And using the heads etc from the 1600?
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Hey mate. Can't wait to see you Baja come together.
As for that engine kit it will not be a straight bolt together into a 1600 block.
Standard bore is 85.5mm and the 1835 kit requires a 92mm bore. It is also not a desirable engine size as the 92mm bore is designed to 'slip in' to
another smaller bore size, specifically 90.5mm which yields a 1776cc engine.
The thinner walled bore is not normally a good idea for the Australian climate, especially not in an offroad car as you tend to work them pretty
hard.
In order to fit these larger bores and increase the size of the engine you will need to have your block machined out to accommodate the larger bore
pistons and barrels.
Typically if you are going to bore it anyway you have it taken out to 94mm bore which gives you a 1915cc engine and thicker walls on the barrels than
1835.
When you do this you can still use your 1600 heads as you suggested. You just need to have them flycut for the bore size too.
If you have any more general engine/mechanical questions you will probably get more answers in the Tech Talk section of this forum as there aren't a
lot of offroaders on here not many people seem to look at the Offroad section. It is more for suspension/offroad tech questions.
I can also suggest the Manx Club Forum as a good offroad Aussie forum.
http://www.manxclub.org
And the Offroad section on Shoptalk Forums has lots of helpful people and info.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/index.php
Any more questions just ask mate.
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Growler
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| posted on February 15th, 2016 at 01:39 PM |
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Cheers Smiley thanks for the info and links mate.
Still looking, the two i looked at yesterday havent eventuated (bit rustier than described in their ad) Im going to look at another one tomorrow or
Wednesday. Its a 66 and has fibreglass bonnet and guards already fitted, but the arse hasn't been cut off yet.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on February 15th, 2016 at 02:23 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Growler
Cheers Smiley thanks for the info and links mate.
Still looking, the two i looked at yesterday havent eventuated (bit rustier than described in their ad) Im going to look at another one tomorrow or
Wednesday. Its a 66 and has fibreglass bonnet and guards already fitted, but the arse hasn't been cut off yet.
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Where are you located mate? Somewhere in SEQ?
Update your profile information (Using the USER CP link at the top of the page) and you should be able to add you location to your avatar information.
Under edit profile.
And I agree, don't settle for a rusty one. No one wants to cut a bug into a Baja, AND fix rust 
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Growler
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| posted on February 15th, 2016 at 05:52 PM |
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Adelaide mate. We have good beaches to drive on down the south east, but im going to be on fast (maybe not in a beetle) dirt tracks. Not excluding
beaches altogether, but my Patrol will do that with aircon and with ease
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Growler
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| posted on February 16th, 2016 at 06:09 PM |
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Got stuffed around today by the seller, but it should be on tomorrow. Its a 66 that someones added flares to, but not finished, which is good i like
using grinders on cars
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on February 17th, 2016 at 11:35 AM |
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Hey mate. Looks like a good solid car!
It is later than a 66, there are a number of ways to tell. Larger windows, rear decklid shape, fuel door on the outside etc.
It also have a Cheetah Baja kit fitted which is great. They have the widest front and rear guards.
As long as it is solid. Check for rust in the bottom of the door pillers, along the bottoms of the front quarter panels, under the sills, and the
bottom of the front firewall on the outside. Also check the doors.
And it is good that it is not chopped at the back yet. Many people make the mistake of cutting it up too high and then bolting the rear guards on
afterwards. Then they realise that they have cut the rearmost mounting hole off. You should chop down from level with the rear guards. I had to add a
heap of metal back to the last two Bajas I have built for this reason.
I would also highly recommend leaving as much of the sheet metal that makes up the front and sides of the engine bay as possible. So basically cut
down from the rear guards and leave the rest. That when you can still seal the front of the engine to the front and sides of the engine bay. This
helps stop mud and sand coming in from the sides and onto your engine and also helps with creek crossings. My last body has a lot of this cut away and
my carbies used to cop a lot of sand on the beach. I will put a picture up to help explain what I mean.
Looks like you have a great starting point. Curious to see what gearbox etc is fitted. Being the late body it should have ball joint front suspension
and swingaxle rear. It is very likely a 68/69/70 model car going by the pictures.
Good luck with the purchase, just make sure you check it out first and make sure it is pretty solid.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Growler
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| posted on February 17th, 2016 at 03:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
Hey mate. Looks like a good solid car!
It is later than a 66, there are a number of ways to tell. Larger windows, rear decklid shape, fuel door on the outside etc.
It also have a Cheetah Baja kit fitted which is great. They have the widest front and rear guards.
As long as it is solid. Check for rust in the bottom of the door pillers, along the bottoms of the front quarter panels, under the sills, and the
bottom of the front firewall on the outside. Also check the doors.
And it is good that it is not chopped at the back yet. Many people make the mistake of cutting it up too high and then bolting the rear guards on
afterwards. Then they realise that they have cut the rearmost mounting hole off. You should chop down from level with the rear guards. I had to add a
heap of metal back to the last two Bajas I have built for this reason.
I would also highly recommend leaving as much of the sheet metal that makes up the front and sides of the engine bay as possible. So basically cut
down from the rear guards and leave the rest. That when you can still seal the front of the engine to the front and sides of the engine bay. This
helps stop mud and sand coming in from the sides and onto your engine and also helps with creek crossings. My last body has a lot of this cut away and
my carbies used to cop a lot of sand on the beach. I will put a picture up to help explain what I mean.
Looks like you have a great starting point. Curious to see what gearbox etc is fitted. Being the late body it should have ball joint front suspension
and swingaxle rear. It is very likely a 68/69/70 model car going by the pictures.
Good luck with the purchase, just make sure you check it out first and make sure it is pretty solid.
Smiley
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Cheers mate, youve just answered nearly all my Q's, your a bloody mind reader! Yup swing arm rear front disc brakes 4 stud pattern 15x10 Chrome
stockies on the rear. Does have some rust but nothing too significant. I dont know what motor it has, is there an easy way to tell? The badge on the
back says 1500 but that may not be original. The rego papers say 69 the engine number is H1096270
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Growler
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| posted on February 17th, 2016 at 05:37 PM |
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I should start a build thread and leave this here for my questions directly related to off road tech talk
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on February 17th, 2016 at 06:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Growler
I should start a build thread and leave this here for my questions directly related to off road tech talk
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Start a build thread in the Members Rides section.
And a H case should be a 1500 singleport engine. The decklid is probably original and I would back that it is a 69.
Great year for a Baja! has loads of improvements over the early body. I have been swapping my Baja to a late body after I ruined the early one when I
rolled it.
Some of the improvements include, bigger windows all round, burstproof catches on the doors, 12V electrics, fresh air ventilation in the top of the
dash, external fuel door, etc etc. They are also a lot stiffer body than the earlies, especially around the front firewall area which tends to crack
out if you are lifting wheels a bit
Can't wait to follow your build up, any questions just ask mate.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Growler
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| posted on February 17th, 2016 at 06:05 PM |
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Ive been reading your build up mate...........Epic is the word that comes to mind
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on February 17th, 2016 at 06:14 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Growler
Ive been reading your build up mate...........Epic is the word that comes to mind
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More like lots of time wasted, heartache and frustration!! 
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on February 17th, 2016 at 06:39 PM |
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Glad to see there is a baja scene here in Adelaide; I just moved here temporary (for next 2-3yrs) from QLD with my own baja!
At the Volkwagen Enthusiast's Club of SA show recently there was only 1 baja!! (not mine!)
You'll have to tell me about these tracks (although my gal's got a crook donk on the mend right now)
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Growler
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 02:59 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
Glad to see there is a baja scene here in Adelaide; I just moved here temporary (for next 2-3yrs) from QLD with my own baja!
At the Volkwagen Enthusiast's Club of SA show recently there was only 1 baja!! (not mine!)
You'll have to tell me about these tracks (although my gal's got a crook donk on the mend right now)
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Here ya go mate! A bloody fun place, has a bit of everything. The tour track is 40km long from memory, he has short rally tracks, the 350km (10x35km)
track which is where the trophy trucks and the likes race, and mild to wild 4wd tracks http://www.loveday4x4adventures.com/
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Growler
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 05:07 AM |
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The arrow in the pic attached is a little bit off, but would i cut here straight down? Looking on youtube people cut it in many different ways
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 09:26 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Growler
The arrow in the pic attached is a little bit off, but would i cut here straight down? Looking on youtube people cut it in many different ways
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That is pretty much it. I was supposed to get you a photo wasn't I! I will get onto that!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Growler
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 10:41 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Growler
The arrow in the pic attached is a little bit off, but would i cut here straight down? Looking on youtube people cut it in many different ways
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That is pretty much it. I was supposed to get you a photo wasn't I! I will get onto that!
Smiley
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Nah you're right mate im gunna get the 5" out now and have a crack
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 11:27 AM |
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Did your kit come with the scoop? The fibreglass bit that goes over the engine?
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Growler
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 03:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
Did your kit come with the scoop? The fibreglass bit that goes over the engine?
Smiley
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Nah it didnt i need to source that and some rear bar work, then a front bar, then bigger rubber all round, I think i need wider fronts as the pizza
cutters on it now look wide for the rim
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Growler
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 03:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Growler
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
Did your kit come with the scoop? The fibreglass bit that goes over the engine?
Smiley
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Do you know if 67 doors will fit my 69. saw a cheeeeep set on gumtree today that would be great for spares if needed
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 04:13 PM |
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You shouldn't really have to go too wide on the front. 6 Inch at the very most. But I would just leave it how it is and put wider tyres on it.
My Bug has 7" wide rims on the front with 225/75/16s on it and they are too wide. With a bug you don't want to run the front tyre pressure too high
or your braking gets worse and so does the ride. I normally run mine around 16-18 psi. But I have had some dramas getting crap in the beads. So I want
to go narrower on the front to help keep it seated better.
67 doors can be made to fit. But they are about 5-10mm narrowed in the door aperture. And the have a completely different latching mechanism which you
will have to make fit.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Growler
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| posted on February 18th, 2016 at 06:51 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
You shouldn't really have to go too wide on the front. 6 Inch at the very most. But I would just leave it how it is and put wider tyres on it.
My Bug has 7" wide rims on the front with 225/75/16s on it and they are too wide. With a bug you don't want to run the front tyre pressure too high
or your braking gets worse and so does the ride. I normally run mine around 16-18 psi. But I have had some dramas getting crap in the beads. So I want
to go narrower on the front to help keep it seated better.
67 doors can be made to fit. But they are about 5-10mm narrowed in the door aperture. And the have a completely different latching mechanism which you
will have to make fit.
Smiley
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Cheers i wont buy them. Who else does the rear cowl and bar work. Ive emailed and phoned this mob and had no response and the phones constantly
engaged https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/gallery.aspx?code=customer
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