| [ Total Views: 788 | Total Replies: 4 | Thread Id: 110601 ] |
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 Strogger
Casual Dubber
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| posted on February 21st, 2016 at 04:57 PM |
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Front suspension problem
Hi all,
Have an issue (possibly more than 1) with my 65 King and link beetle.
First and most annoying is that after a beam swap to regain factory wheel base, the ride is rough - as in non existent. 2ndly is car is lop-sided,
driver side is lower than passenger.
If you lift car by bumper car stays up, if you push bumper down car stays down. Seems to stay equally lop-sided too. But harder to lift and push on
drivers side.
Back story,
aftermarket adjustable beam, red plasticy bushes, 1 new leaf pack, 1 second hand, drop spindles and tried with and without shocks with no apparent
difference.
3 of the bushes the trailing arms pushed in and arms moved sweetly, 4th I had to drive the arm in with a plastic hammer and was very stiff to move
compared to other 3.
An suggestions as to what I should do next.? Thinking of re-striping and lubricating again. Maybe replace red empi plastic bushes with harder bug
pack style....?
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fish26
A.k.a.: benito
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| posted on February 21st, 2016 at 06:43 PM |
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Sounds like you have a binding bush, i've heard a lot of people are having issues with the red nolathane bushes, usually need to be chilled before
installed.
bitten by the bug..........several times
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on February 21st, 2016 at 09:52 PM |
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K&L beams should be using needle roller bearings for all 4 torsion arms but you also have to make sure that the inner micarta bushes are present
and in good order before fitting the new needle bearings.
Those urethane bushes can need trimming down to allow for the micarta bush still being in place and can also need reaming for the torsion arm to move
freely in them.
Personally, the needle roller bearings are the far better choice when doing repairs to a K&L beam.
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ragged
A.k.a.: David
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on February 22nd, 2016 at 12:21 AM |
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(A)I think a part of your answer is here
"3 of the bushes the trailing arms pushed in and arms moved sweetly, 4th I had to drive the arm in with a plastic hammer and was very stiff to move
compared to other 3".
(B) I assume you have measured and shimmed your link pins correctly?
(C) Link pin adjustment 'TOO TIGHT' and binding. Back them off a touch.
(D) Narrowed beams are not the best way to correct wheel track, but that will open another can of worms and I'm going to regret saying that!
(E) Check the rear suspension is even. That has a huge effect on the front if incorrect.
(F) Grease the front end.
Cheers Dave
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Strogger
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| posted on February 22nd, 2016 at 05:38 PM |
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Thanks guys,
Seems like the binding bush idea bears out as being probable cause. Makes sense now I think about it and my installation "stiffness" on one bush.
Agree the red bushes are not ideal, i knew when putting them in I'd regret it. Set came with beam, so thought I'd give them a whirl.
Given they had a feeling like firm jelly and not stiff like a traditional bushing should have been my first warning.
Going to ring around a few places tomorrow to see what getting original type inner bushings and outer needle rollers + seals supplied and fitted will
cost me.
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