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 roofchop
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| posted on March 17th, 2016 at 02:34 PM |
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8 dowel jig question...
Help......
My only daily driver just acquired a very loose flywheel, and mangled the dowel holes on the crank and flywheel.
Been googling and it is doable to drill new holes with a jig without removing the crankshaft. Effectively creating an 8 dowel setup.
http://www.aircooledtech.com/8_doweling_crank/
Money is tight so the cheap fix is what is happening. No new crank/flywheel etc.
So does anyone have the magic jig that I can hire or where can you buy one?
Cheers
Dave
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ragged
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| posted on March 17th, 2016 at 03:53 PM |
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The long answer is; if the dowel holes are elongated, than the crankshaft end needs to be refaced flat and the flywheel machined so they both have a
flat surface to connect, other wise it will come loose again. Once you have the parts fitting together, you will need the jig to guide your drill
through the flywheel and then the crankshaft. I've seen it done before, but he was a specialist machinist with tooling that was specific to the job,
that he had made. And I might add, it was the 1980's and he would do heaps of them. And if you get this far, don't forget to reset the end float, or
else the rear main will seize with in a minute.
Short answer is; NO
sorry for the bad news, Dave
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 vw54
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| posted on March 18th, 2016 at 06:30 AM |
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I don't think trying to drill the pin holes in the crank while the engine is assembled will be very successful
you really need to strip it and do the job
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beetleboyjeff
A.k.a.: Jeff Walsh
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| posted on March 18th, 2016 at 06:35 AM |
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I had it done once years ago, and it worked OK. From memory, the holes in the crank were OK, it was only the holes in the flywheel that had been worn
a bit, so we only re-drilled them.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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beetleboyjeff
A.k.a.: Jeff Walsh
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| posted on March 18th, 2016 at 06:37 AM |
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Just thinking about it, I have a feeling we drilled the holes in the crank a larger size and used larger dowels.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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roofchop
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| posted on March 19th, 2016 at 06:07 AM |
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Thanks guys.
Ordered a jig from Volks.com.au $54 delivered.
Also getting a freshly re-ground crank on Monday.
Will be 8 doweling it and the flywheel.
While the case i split may as well put in a cam, so just getting an Engle 100.
Someone said VW engines are uber reliable......until we modify/mess them up....
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vw54
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| posted on March 19th, 2016 at 07:33 AM |
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make sure you get the engle lifters as well to match the cam
what carbies do you run
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roofchop
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| posted on March 19th, 2016 at 02:10 PM |
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Weber ICT 34's (Empi ones)
Stock internals, 1641 stock heads, above carbs, Pertronics ign with dual advance dissy (not sure I get much vac advance off the T'd ICT's...)
Getting lifters too, do I need springs as well?
Currently on OG '67 ones....
Also is line boreing needed, or optional?
Not split the case yet, what do you look for to see if boring is needed?
Cheers
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ragged
A.k.a.: David
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| posted on March 19th, 2016 at 07:59 PM |
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When you split the case, clean it up and take it to a reputable engine re-conditioner and have them measure up the case. They will then tell you
whether or not it needs to be done.
Dave
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 Bizarre
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| posted on March 19th, 2016 at 08:37 PM |
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the thrust bearing face? seems to be a bigger issue on cases i have worked on
What is the endplay like on your crank now?
Futue te ipsum!!!
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roofchop
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| posted on March 20th, 2016 at 05:44 AM |
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End play was minimal, but with the flywheel off it's massive ( to be expected)
Will take the lot to my nearest engine man next week.
Is line boring similar to getting oversize bearings but on the outside of them?
Like a crank gets ground smaller, then bigger bearing to suit, the case "hole" gets bigger and an oversize (externally) bearing to suit?
Cheers
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vw54
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| posted on March 20th, 2016 at 01:29 PM |
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| Quote: |
Getting lifters too, do I need springs as well?
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NO only engle lifters matched to the engle cam
once you split the engine cases you will see if the middle bearing has been hammering in the case if so you will need a tunnel bore also the no1
bearing thrust face if its hammered it will need to be machined then a bearing cut down to suit
Can be done by some one whos knows what there doing
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Bizarre
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| posted on March 20th, 2016 at 01:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by roofchop
End play was minimal,
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Define minimal
Should be say 5 - 7 thou.
More f@ck all rather than minimal
| Quote: | Originally
posted by roofchop
Is line boring similar to getting oversize bearings but on the outside of them?
Like a crank gets ground smaller, then bigger bearing to suit, the case "hole" gets bigger and an oversize (externally) bearing to suit?
Cheers
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correct
line boring is to do with the up / down movement
The thrust bearing is the back / forward movement
Futue te ipsum!!!
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roofchop
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| posted on March 20th, 2016 at 03:37 PM |
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Ok, cases split and all cleaned up.
The surfaces on all main bearing areas look very good, tight contact between the bearings and case, no hammering/fretting at all.
Looks like it's had work done before, white pen marks on the crank...
T .020
M .010
Thrust and mains clearances? also each con rod and end cap have been punched and matched, 1 dot, 2 dots etc, but they are not on the corresponding
journals, so probably reground at some point. (will measure)
The guy I'm getting the cam from fitted it but never ran, he's going hotter, so I get the cam, lifters, gear, and he's going dual springs so I will
get his new springs as well.
Just need to see if my case has already been bored over size, looks too bloody good for 49 years old..... Will compare tomorrow against new stock
bearings.
Got a tiny bit of side to side play on the con rods is that ok?
I will be using new main bearings, on the freshly ground crank, (obviously)
Assuming the case is not stuffed, thrust wise (which it looks like it's good) do you just dial out the end play with the 3 shims between flywheel and
crank?
Cheers
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roofchop
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| posted on April 3rd, 2016 at 06:30 AM |
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Ok almost finished now, 8 doweled the crank and flywheel, could have easily done it without removing the crank...
At least now I have a hot cam Engle110, lifters, hd springs.
I will get the correct shims for end play tomorrow then refit and back on the road.
Anyone can borrow the jig for post costs, it is really easy!
Cheers
Dave
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