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duncombemu
A.k.a.: Mark Atkins
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posted on October 10th, 2003 at 09:04 PM |
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Clutch shudder problem
I've just changed from a 1200 to a 1500 in my '62 IRS Beetle. Now when I let the clutch out, like I've always done and now I get
violent clutch shudder. Please can someone let me know how to fix this.
Regards,
Mark :thumb
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
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56astro
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| posted on October 10th, 2003 at 10:46 PM |
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The first thing I'd check is that the boudon (sp) tube has the correct amount of bend in it. About 45mm I think the manual says.
After that, no idea sorry.
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on October 10th, 2003 at 10:59 PM |
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Yes check the Bowden tube, also the steel tube coming from the chassis tunnel, sometimes the welding breaks away from the steel tubing, especially if
the chassis was from a Semi Auto beetle..
The other two things: Your clutch is out of alignment? or Your clutch cable is frayed and starting to break strand by strand and stretch at the same
time.....
and will need to be renewed... before it snaps completely...
Lee
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vw54
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| posted on October 11th, 2003 at 08:12 AM |
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Did you check the clutch and pressure plate on the new engine.
If you change the gearbox did you chack the chutch throw out arm for cracks and see if its square.
could be a number of things
Is the clutch adjust correctly and is the outter tube fitted right
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wadd
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| posted on October 11th, 2003 at 08:46 AM |
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ya gota admit that engine sures is brrright,sort of make ya wonder what colour ya paint the car :vader
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duncombemu
A.k.a.: Mark Atkins
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| posted on October 11th, 2003 at 09:18 AM |
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Yes, I do understand all these things that can contribute to the shudder problem. But I was driving the car for a while that the engine came out of,
without any problems. The car that the engine is in now never had any shudder problems either. So the only thing it can be is what 68AutoBug
has said, that the clutch is not aligned properly. The Bowden tube hasn't been touched, so that should be OK. So do I have to remove
the engine again to align the clutch?
Thanks for the ideas, guys.
Regards,
Mark
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speedster356
A.k.a.: Peter Mcleod
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| posted on October 11th, 2003 at 03:23 PM |
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My gearbox mounts failed and it always shuddered on takeoff.
Spyder-WISD 07-09-05 11.6s @ 125 MPH
Speedster-WISD Nats 05 14.4s @ 89 MPH
Jet cruiser-Coogee 22-09-05 900 deg C @ 110,000 rpm
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vw54
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| posted on October 11th, 2003 at 06:24 PM |
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The clutch outer may be wrong as you have fitted a new engine and it will have different distance to the pressure plate so please check that its not
too tight ofr loose first.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on October 11th, 2003 at 10:36 PM |
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Thats another one I forgot... engine/gearbox mounts... when worn out these move as You let the clutch out and can make the cllutch shudder...
these should be replaced when You have the engine out.... or a clutch replaced...
for some reason - there is a difference between the original engine & clutch and this engine & clutch... & the flywheel..
Maybe the clutch bearing has reached its limit of wear... but... it certainly looks like an engine out job.....
Lee
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duncombemu
A.k.a.: Mark Atkins
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| posted on October 11th, 2003 at 10:46 PM |
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I'm sorry Dave, I've looked in the book for 'clutch outer' and can't find what you mean. Please enlighten me with this
procedure.
Mark
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vw54
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| posted on October 12th, 2003 at 08:13 AM |
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the clutch cable outer sleeve runs between the chassis and the gearbox.
it has to have a certain amount of pre tension or bend in it. the clutch cable runs through it to the clutch lever arm.
its called the Bowden tube as well.
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