| [ Total Views: 526 | Total Replies: 5 | Thread Id: 15706 ] |
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 Salahahdin
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| posted on November 13th, 2003 at 04:23 PM |
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411 MOTOR AND G'BOX SWAPOVER
Hey all, Doing a swapover this weekend.
I am all prepared, jacks, overalls, read the manual twice etc etc.
Just wondering if there are any hidden issues you may know of that would help the swapover process.
Putting a 2lt Dual Carb into my 1800 Dual Carb Bus, complete swapover including gearbox as well.
Thanks all, just hope the weather fines up :thumb
Charlotte Kevin and Brian
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Salahahdin
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| posted on November 14th, 2003 at 06:30 AM |
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:bounce
Charlotte Kevin and Brian
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Andy
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Andy's Adventures
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| posted on November 14th, 2003 at 08:27 AM |
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I’m sure this ones come up before, so do search past posts.
Now I’m reasonably sure a 1.8L motor & GB is a straight swap to a 2L motor & GB (both manuals), so there should be no drama’s there.
I suppose the best advice is double check everything is disconnected before you start to remove. It’s hard to do this ½ way through!!
Now every one has their own opinion, but I have found the easiest way to remove a type 4 motor from a Kombi is to do the motor and GB as a complete
unit with two floor jacks, one under the GB, one under the motor so you can lower each end individually.
Disconnect all the cables & wires (DO THE BATTERY FIRST), fuel line, CV joints (cover them with plastic bags if you don’t plan to
clean/re-grease them), gear shift coupling etc first. Next set up your jacks to just have light pressure and loosen all the bolts before continuing
(so you know they will all undo). Proceed by removing the bolts above the bell housing all the way. Double check you have the weight of the motor and
remove the bolts from the rear cross arm. Once they’re out you should be able to start lowering the motor. You can lower it ~1/2 way down at this
stage. Lastly check you have the weight of the GB and remove the front GB mount. Now you can lower it all the way down.
From here I usually drop the motor flat on the ground, raise the rear wheels on a line of building blocks and roll the bus forward of the motor
(assuming you have room etc.
Alternatively you can remove the air box & carbs so you don’t need to lift the bus so heigh.
As a first time, I would recommend a helper, especially for the install (reverse of above). It can be done alone if need be.
Best advise is take your time and BE SAFE. Make sure every thing is secure before lying underneath anything. 1300kg or more of kombi on top of you
would not be fun.
Good luck,
Andy
:thumb
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Salahahdin
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| posted on November 14th, 2003 at 05:00 PM |
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Thanks Andy!
I got my trusty assistant Ruby on board. Well she helped me fit the windscreen so I can't see why she couldn't help with the motor 
Only had to build her a bathroom, set a back steps, kitchen, deck, front patio, and paint the house to get her to agree to help with the Bus
Charlotte Kevin and Brian
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Robo
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| posted on November 14th, 2003 at 06:42 PM |
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Good luck man!!!
Hope it all goe's smoothly.
Rob.....
Boxer Power
Member of DMLRK.....Die Mittler Lebuns Resto Komeradschaft
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Salahahdin
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| posted on November 15th, 2003 at 07:30 PM |
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SOMEBODY SHOOT ME!!!!!! WHAT A DRAMA
Bloody hell, I should of taken it to a shop. Man I hope the other one comes out easier.
What is with those damned studs hanging out the back of the motor. Wish they were bolts.
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Charlotte Kevin and Brian
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11CAB
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| posted on November 15th, 2003 at 07:55 PM |
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Thats why Andy suggested taking them out together.....then seperate them later
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KruizinKombi
A.k.a.: Col
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| posted on November 16th, 2003 at 07:26 PM |
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The studs aren't too bad, but I used to hate them. Disconnect everything else first, then lower the back of the motor on a trolly jack. This
creates more room to access the nuts on the end of the studs and the bolt in the starter motor. It is a lot easier also to keep the bottom two nuts on
until the top two are ready to come out. 
Kruizin Kol
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