| [ Total Views: 397 | Total Replies: 6 | Thread Id: 21977 ] |
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 Starbug
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| posted on April 22nd, 2004 at 01:50 PM |
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upgrading bug
ive put my thoughts into it and im going to upgrade the bug!
im thinking an 1835 engine, twin webers, disk brakes for the back and replacing wiring to start.
can anyone give me a ball-park figure on how much the engine setup is going to set me back? id like to get an idea on how much i should be paying
before i start ringing around.
much thanks in advance! :thumb
[Edited on 22-4-2004 by Starbuggy]
in the beginning, the universe was created.
this made alot of people very angry and is widely regarded as a bad move.
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karmannghia60
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| posted on April 22nd, 2004 at 02:07 PM |
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My 2c worth
Forget 1835, you are wasting your time and money. They have thin cylinder walls so they warp quickly and are notorius for blow-up. Stick to 1776 or
1916.
I bought my 1776 P&C for $540. Heads were $520 (all new). Used mild cam $70. Heavy duty 30mm oil pump $75. Dual 40mm DRLA $650 including linkage.
Manifolds were $100. There is a guy on eBay.com.au (in Qld I think) selling rear disk brake kits for $700
You better call the bank manager 
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 Bizarre
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| posted on April 22nd, 2004 at 02:11 PM |
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I am sitting here at work so i will say a few things
The motor will cost UP TO $8000 for a drive in drive out Pobjoy special.
You can get away for around 1/2 that
This all depends how much you are going to do yourself.
If nothing i would budget for the $8k cause otherwise you need a crash course on carb jetting and the like.
That said you may find a going bug with a nice motor for that sort of money and do a motor swap with yours and get out of it for a grand!!
Brahes will cost you another grand.
To do it yourself YOUR way is the dear way - especially if you dont do the work.
It would be cheaper to find a bug already done
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Che Castro
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| posted on April 22nd, 2004 at 05:48 PM |
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yes avoid the 1835, the cylinders are too thin and weak.
budget at least $4000 for a 1916 or 1776. You might even be happy with just a 1600 with some dual carbs and a cam. which would be a lot cheaper
Jon
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Starbug
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| posted on April 23rd, 2004 at 12:41 PM |
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thanks muchly for the info guys! i'll avoid 1835's at all costs now!
i'll do some ringing around for a 1600 or 1776 and compare prices. I dont mind doing as much of the work myself as i can (gotta learn something you
know!) and have a while to undertake it so im not too fussed.
do micks sell 1776's? or shall i enquire elsewhere?
in the beginning, the universe was created.
this made alot of people very angry and is widely regarded as a bad move.
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BiX
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| posted on April 23rd, 2004 at 02:51 PM |
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try some other places to. I got a very nice street motor from "Leons motors" down on the south side. That was using my hold heads, case, crank and
reworked rods etc. He built the engine head to head and then I did all the tine ware and stuff. I also fully stripped the motor for him to save time.
I think it cost about 4ish winlcuding carbs, But it depends on ur choices.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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Starbug
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| posted on April 23rd, 2004 at 11:09 PM |
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thanks BiX! i'll give them a call too!
in the beginning, the universe was created.
this made alot of people very angry and is widely regarded as a bad move.
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on April 24th, 2004 at 06:11 PM |
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go the 1916!!:bounce
Remember, you'll be driving it a long time, might as well make it fun save and go all the way, at least you'll know what you're getting.
Maybe call Stan 66543694, he'll give you a clear idea of what you're getting yourself into
let sleeping dubs lie
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bigbruvabob
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| posted on April 24th, 2004 at 06:47 PM |
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yeah ring stan
whwn i, decided to go pobjoy stan was willing to do a base1916 in kit form for me for about 5700, but cant remeber if this included carbies . all
machining and preassembly done you just put together.
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