| [ Total Views: 3914 | Total Replies: 73 | Thread Id: 23648 ] |
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 moonlite6t6beetle
A.k.a.: Corey Marriott
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on June 26th, 2004 at 09:45 PM |
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i dunno about silver meself.....
ive seen bugs in silver, the shapes not right for them...
but maybe it was just a bad one...
Moonlite... 54 and 66 beetle
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Che Castro
Custom Title Time!
ankle straps
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| posted on June 27th, 2004 at 06:54 PM |
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I think silver can look shit hot!
Jon
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
Scirocco Rare
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| posted on June 27th, 2004 at 11:32 PM |
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Hi
I reckon CTs silver is very nice, some silvers just dont photograph very well, they look like grey primer.
1302Steve
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boof2332
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| posted on June 28th, 2004 at 12:21 AM |
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HI,
Good decision on the heads.
Mofocco are terrible and do not last.
Street eliminators..both bugpac and cb run 50 deg hotter than 044's or standard casting on a normally aspirated engine let alone a turbo. They are
good for short trips and ocassional drives.
With the turbo you do not require big valves at all...simply a port job to minimise restriction, especially with a small turbo.
Even the quickest street cars like Scott Bakken and Lee Gong in the states both have 2332 normally aspirated 11 second bugs, 200+hp and only 42x37.5
heads...Bigger is not always better. I bought some 46x37.5 heads with all the bells and whistles and have decided they will be a negative over the
smaller valves..waste of money, by rushing in...silly.
Good luck, look foward to more updates.
Matt
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on June 28th, 2004 at 06:33 AM |
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Well the porsche arctic silver is about the same as the silver ragtop that is show above. My new car isn't a ragtop, but it does have all the bells
and whistles.
I've been collecting all those nic-nac and accessories that "finish" the appearance of the car for years. Aluminium billet bumpers, billet running
boards, stainless anti-scratch plates (under the door and hood handles), 911 headlights etc.
Wheels are porsche 911, 964 cup 1 17x7 and 17x7.5, with 205x50 and 215x50 rubber. These are a straight spoke wheel.
I can't wait to get the body back from the panel beaters... Only about 2 weeks to go now.
Cheers,
[Edited on 27-6-2004 by iswinkels]
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seagull
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| posted on July 7th, 2004 at 11:45 PM |
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MR iswinkels can you please tell 71 super how many of these $ the motor cost ,he is trying to do the same ,thanks seagull
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on July 8th, 2004 at 12:46 PM |
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Thats a tough question to answer. I don't consider myself an expert on this subject but I can offer my opinion and some advise tho.
It all depends on what your trying to acomplish... becuase the moment you go down the turbo vw engine road your generally looking at least $4000+
(thats not including the engine). There are so many things to consider...
Exhaust system changes
Beefed up oil system
Carb or injection
Engine management systems
Cooling
intercooling
Engineering approval (if you want a turbo street car)
A 2380 turbo engine in any form is going to produce some impressive TORQUE and HP figures but it all depends on your application. Building the low end
turbo 2380 is going to whip the ass of nearly all engines over the quarter, so when I say low end I'm referring to the $$$ factor and not the FUN
factor. Turboing an engine is all about getting more torque so you can go faster quicker. Turbo engines produce much more torque than a Naturally
aspirated engine at the same power range. This allows you to have much less RPM's and still be keeping pace with a NA engine thats turing through
7500 RPM.
You could build a low end 2380 "fairly cheaply", run a stock cam, and smallish (Nissan T28-SR20 $350.00) turbo (7lb boost) and still have 220-240hp
and good reliability! The dollar factor would be quite reasonable, say a guess around the $5-6K head to head. (no cooling, exhaust, or induction
system). Modified crankcase, welded 84mm stroker crank, Hbeam 5.394" rods, and a pair of unported cb 044's for some top end strength. This sort of
engine would be driven mostly under 5000 RPM, have fantastic torque in any gear and be economical to run.
Then there is the engine i'm building, more or less middle of the range power output for a turbo 2380. Main diferences are 4340 forged bottom end,
5.6" rods, wedgemated crank, barel spacers required, turbo grind cam and ported heads. Hopefully around the 300hp mark at 14lb, which is also the
upper limit of the 8mm head studs. You would use a T3 from a skyline RB25, or go for a modern GT25-320 class turbo as I have, not so much for the
performance but you need to be able to keep the airflow up to the engine. Costing around $7000 head to head. I'm also running a dry sump oil system
for something diferent, and a little more ground clearence.
A 2380 can be taken a lot further up the power output scale but requires major changes. (Flanged crank, aftermarket cylinders and pistons as Mahle
won't be strong enough, bigger cam, bigger heads, aftermarket crankcase(autocraft/scat), 10mm headstuds, porting etc). With 20lb boost this engine
would make 300hp easy, and at higher (say 30lb) you'd be making maybe 380-400hp. If you on this path you'd be running a GT30-450 turbo BIG $$$$.
Cost estimate would be 15-18$K+, as all parts are aftermarket, AND require custom modification in some way or another. Only die hard vw fans would do
this, because basically your better off buying a porsche flat 6 and running a low boost turbo setup (if you want air cooled), or go for an EJ20T for
some modern reliability.
Well thats just my opinion. Feel free to throw in some other ideas...
Cheers,
[Edited on 8-7-2004 by iswinkels]
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AdrianH
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| posted on July 8th, 2004 at 07:25 PM |
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This is a good site in regard to what to expect with a turbo
http://www.turbobobefi.com/
What cam are you using ??
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on July 8th, 2004 at 08:39 PM |
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I'm using an engal TCS-10 with 1.25:1 rocker gear, which makes for 284 intake 276 exhaust, 0.530" lift at the valve.
It should come hit full boost around 2500 RPM and hold 12lb till 6500 RPM. The low end torque will be very impressive, traction being a problem...
I'm ordering my heads and the last parts to complete the engine next month. The shell swap happens in 9 days..... and counting....
Cheers,
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seagull
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| posted on July 8th, 2004 at 08:48 PM |
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Thanks for your post on costs Ian , gives the gang a idea of what things cost , ta seagull
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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71superbug
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on July 9th, 2004 at 01:10 AM |
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thanks "ian" but i was not looking for a stroked turbo'd engine. lol. it was to be a turbo 1600 or a 2275. not a turbo'd 2275. lol. i was finding
which would be the cheaper option of those 2. sorry if you mis understood.
i will eventually build a 2380 turbo or something along the lines. but that would be once i alreay have a motor in my car that can satisfy me and be
not as expensive. i am not looking at the 220+hp vw engine at the moment. so turbo 1600 or 2275?
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primate
A.k.a.: Ali Cimen
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| posted on July 11th, 2004 at 06:40 AM |
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Hey Ian,
Agree with everyone here - your project is awesome!
The CB 044 CNC ported heads you are thinking of ordering are'nt all that one would expect. I have physically handled a set and they needed alot of
further work to get them close to being 'ported'. In fact at the time I was able to run my fingers inside the ports of a stock VW casting at the
same time - the VW casting felt alot better in terms of its port shape and finish - without any porting whatsoever!
Call AJ Sims in the US ( http://www.lowbugget.com ) and have a chat to him. He ports
CB 044's all day long for all types of applications (incl turbo). Ask him about the CB's CNC ported heads. He is a 'straightshooter' and won't BS
you regardless of where/ what type of heads you decide to get. He will explain to you why the CNC ported heads just don't 'cut-it'.
Good luck with the rest of your project. You are an inspiration to the rest of us!
Cheers,
Ali
[Edited on 10-7-2004 by primate]
[Edited on 10-7-2004 by primate]
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on July 12th, 2004 at 12:30 PM |
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Are you gonna put an LSD centre in ya tranny?
seems like a shame not to with all that power. How did the car behave with the old engine? Coz by the looks of things it will be that to the power of
10.
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on July 12th, 2004 at 09:07 PM |
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There's two ways I can go with the transmission.
1. Import a custom made rancho transaxel. I have "contacts" and can import at a good price. The axel will cost about $1500-$2500 but will have all
the trimmings and be built for 300hp+. Rhino case, straight cut, forged, welded etc. Quaife LSD diff if I can get it, otherwise just a superdiff. And
bigger axels too.
2. porsche 901 5 speed conversion, irs conversion, porsche 930 cv's. Gives me an LSD and 5 gears, but to be 100% happy with this conversion I'd have
to have the ratio's changed, and that means big $$$$.
I'll probably go for the rancho option, simpler, more original, less work. Fact is my car is built for straight lines, and not corners, so the IRS
would never realy be used to its fullest potential.
Cheers,
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LOWBUG
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| posted on July 12th, 2004 at 09:13 PM |
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What is the difference between the gt25 and the gt28 and how are reated and how did you go about selecting the write turbo?
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on July 12th, 2004 at 09:25 PM |
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Thats a question that can't be answered very easily. Basically the GT25 and GT28 are the same turbo with diferent housings.
The exhaust housing changes the RPM at which it will start spooling at, and the compressor housing more or less determines the air flow of the pump...
well sort of.. In reality its a lot more complicated than that, because the exhaust and compressor housing combination together determinel the overall
responsiveness of the turbo.
As for selecting the right one.. Go to big and you've got lag and a turbo that is only just starting to spin before your changing gears, and too
small and you've got excelent low end responsiveness, and no top end because you run out of air flow.
It's gotten a lot easier now tho. The gt series turbo's ratings more or less reflect the amount of air they can flow to produce x amount of HP. For
example, the GT25-320 will produce from 280-320 before it enters the surge "danger" zone and heads torwards self destruction.
Have a look at http://www.turbofast.com.au/GTseries.html .
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