Board Logo
Go To Bottom

Printable Version  
[ Total Views: 1613 | Total Replies: 4 | Thread Id: 23650 ]
Author: Subject: Suspension mods for drag racing
MemberDannyboy
Veteran Volks Folk
half man , half horse
*****


Avatar


Posts: 2306
Threads: 357
Registered: January 24th, 2004
Member Is Offline

Location: Randwick , Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: about 2" off the floor

posted on May 29th, 2004 at 09:22 PM
Suspension mods for drag racing


Lets say you,ve got your new engine and box ready to go in what other mods would be needed? Engine mounts , shocks ,gearbox straps etc. Also seen the bars that help stop wheel hop? Need to know for costing up my project.

Thanks

Dan:)




"If i had to explain you wouldnt understand"

The Lower Class
Member2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
****


Avatar


Posts: 960
Threads: 68
Registered: December 11th, 2002
Member Is Offline

Location: Cairns
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )

posted on May 29th, 2004 at 10:22 PM


I've got the wheel hop problem too.

Welded chassis horns and rubber lined steel front and rear transmission straps helped a little, but i'll be going for the berg tractio bar and maybe a custom speed parts style transmission support (the one that uses bracing with the shock towers).

Hope this helps,
Membershiftyvw
Wolfsburg Wizard
***


Avatar


Posts: 523
Threads: 44
Registered: September 11th, 2002
Member Is Offline

Location: Seven Hills NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )

posted on May 29th, 2004 at 10:24 PM


Depends on how serious your going to get. Minimum is a traction bar on the back, this will stop a lot of axle tramp.
If youre a bit more seious youl need a berg style front mount which takes the front gearbox mount off the nosecone and uses the housing instead, you can still keep it rubber mounted with a setup like this as well.
If your really bent on going fast use a welded in solid mount on the front as well as a solid mount on the bellhousing and tie the frame horns into the roll cage to stop them from flexing. You wont need a traction bar with this setup either.
And get a really good gearbox....
MemberDannyboy
Veteran Volks Folk
half man , half horse
*****


Avatar


Posts: 2306
Threads: 357
Registered: January 24th, 2004
Member Is Offline

Location: Randwick , Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: about 2" off the floor

posted on May 29th, 2004 at 10:28 PM


shiftyvw is think option#2 is more for me!

Thanks dan:)




"If i had to explain you wouldnt understand"

The Lower Class
MemberAdrianH
Officially Full-On Dubber
***


No Avatar


Posts: 257
Threads: 20
Registered: March 5th, 2004
Member Is Offline

Location: New Zealand
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: rebuilding again

posted on June 1st, 2004 at 08:46 PM


Im using the CSP torque bars, berg intermediate mount, and all OEM mounts. I had some Aluminium bushes machined up that I bolt in to the berg mount (remove the rubber) whenever I am going to beat it up.

This has stopped the wheel hop altogether. Check your springplate bushings, if they are knackered (likely) swap them for urethane, you need to trim the urethane bushes to fit. Its a bit of shagging around but worth it (no squeeks!!!). I use KYB gr2s in the back and adjustable bilsteins up the front... I had bilsteins in the rear, but they were to hard - and didnt help with wheel hop.

As shify said, tying a cage into the frame horns is the sure fire way to go - I dont know what you intend to use the car for, but solid mounting is LOUD - you need earplugs...


  Go To Top


Powered by GaiaBB, © 2011 The GaiaBB Group


[ Queries: 40 ] [ PHP: 12.5% - SQL: 87.5% ]