[ Total Views: 1422 | Total Replies: 11 | Thread Id: 24429 ] |
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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posted on June 15th, 2004 at 09:24 PM |
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This conversion hurts my head. HELP ME!
Okay folks. I have a real headache of a problem here.
Just recently my kombi chewed its engine. I have found a fairly cheap subie conversion, but I have a problem.....
Firstly, the specs of my drivetrain:
Engine: 1.8L T4 (auto version- Car was converted to manual a few years back)
Transaxle: 1.6L kombi.
Now, the problem lies here. The motor which I found has the flywheel and bellhousing for a 2 litre Gearbox.
And considering I have a 1.6 gearbox mated to an ex-auto 1.8 T4 motor, I have no idea what needs to be done to force, uh adapt the motor to fit!
It seems a nicer option than trying to fix the current motor right away (dropped valve I think. Engine jammed solid). Anyway, I hate to beg but
pleeeeease help me :cry
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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seagull
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 12:28 AM |
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I would think the fast way to go would be piss the 1.6 box off .get a gear box 2 ltr that suits your ADAPTER PLATE ,bolt that up and go from there
.Ask buggy brad or place a WTD add in the for sale section or keep looking for sale there , all the best seagull
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Desert Moose
A.k.a.: Chris Hill
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 12:40 AM |
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You can clearance the bellhousing so the 200mm flywheel will fit. but you must change the starter motor head or the whole starter.
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seagull
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 01:05 AM |
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2ltr boxes as hard to find over there chris ?? may bee we send a heap over $
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Brad
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 08:03 AM |
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Just get a 2L Bell Housing and starter and it will all bolt straight in. The 1600 box will be a little low in the gearing department unless it has
large back tyres on it.
Are you sure it is a 2L setup ? Measure the clutch and see if it is 228 mm if so then it is 2L if not then it should bolt straight into your current
box.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 12:10 PM |
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Thanks everyone!
Unfortunately I am pretty sure it is a 2L setup.
Clearencing the bellhousing was what I was thinking of doing, but the whole issue of the starter motor is what worries me. It is impossible to get any
VW parts here (used ones that is) in bloody rural southeast QLD. I used to get most of my parts from the Kombi Zoo when I lived down there. I miss it
so much. And I need a working motor in a couple of weeks for minimal $$$ so I can move (near melb).
The only major prob I can forsee is the starter like I said. I don't think I'm lucky enough to have a 2L flywheel on my current motor either, becaus
I'm using the same starter from when it was an auto. I haven't really looked at the starter either except to put it back in when it fell out (I
don't know how it happened either!).
I quite like the ratios on the 1600 box anyway. Doesn't go too quick and has plenty of pulling power.
So any idea what prices I'd be looking at for a starter head or at worst a starter?
Thanks!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Desert Moose
A.k.a.: Chris Hill
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 12:42 PM |
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General_Failure..... you have a u2u
:alien
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Brad
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 01:07 PM |
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It really isn't that hard to swap it all over. Even if you do clearance the bell housing the starter motor on the 228mm flywheel is a different
offset to the other ones so you will have other issues to deal with.
What series Subaru engine are you using ? I have EJ Series adapters and flywheels to suit your box and will swap you for a 2L one if you like.
Or I have a 2L bellhousing and starter motor I will sell you so you can just keep yours and bolt it straight in.
Brad - 0401620063
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 07:09 PM |
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oops.. Forgot about that with the starter motor.
It's the EA71 motor, which has all the kit to chuck it on to a 2L box.
That's an interesting offer. I'm not all that up on the Subaru motors to be honest. So how different are the series' in real terms?
Apparently the bellhousing is custom cast, and the flywheel takes a standard clutch.
Pardon being nosy, but why do you want a 1600 box?
Anyway, I've gotta find the cheapest way possible to get all this happening. Not sure at all if I can put my S beetle's engine in because of the
whole engine mount thing. My poor bug is dead until I can fix the clutch plate/rust/ignition barrel/suspension. So it's going to be shipped down
anyway.
I'd prefer to keep the 1600 box. My van's a workhorse and a camper (poor thing). It's only a matter of how much it'll cost. e-mail me if you want
@ general_fa ilure@ dodo.co m.au (spaces in case of spambots) Depending on how much it costs, I may be interested Brad. Thx for the offer!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 07:17 PM |
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Oh, thx for telling me about the U2U Desert moose. Totally missed it. oops.
One other thing, there's a couple of nicely priced 1600 heads going on ebay that I spotted.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2481832668&ssPa...
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Brad
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 08:31 PM |
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the EJ is completely different to en EA71
I don't want a 1600 but I do want a 228mm EJ series conversion setup as I preffer them to the 215mm setup.
If you have a 1600 Type 1 engine then I would simply be fixing the heads and sticking with it, no radiator required and you are back on the road cheap
and quick. I have a 1600 Long block Kombi engine hear that I can do you a good deal on. It is a rebuilder but you shoudl be able to make a good one
out of the two of them.
The EA71 is not worth the hassle of converting in my opinion. It was a slug of an engine in the Subaru and putting it in a brick ain't gunna make it
any faster. The EA81 is the slowest I would bother with. By the time you plumb your radiator and everything in you will be spending a few dollars and
getting stuff all advantage.
There was a Datsun 2L getting around ( Nissan) a while back, see 3.5ltr Buggy it was rebuilt and complete with kit for like $500, much better option
....
Anyway good luck with it all ...
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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posted on June 16th, 2004 at 11:35 PM |
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eh.. sorry, I think I may have confused you.
There's nothing wrong with the heads on my beetle, well, nothing major anyway. But my kombi, which is a T4 1800 w/1600 transmission, I believe it
dropped a valve, because there was the 'tick-tick-tick' then the godawful 'g-g-g-g-g-g' of metal on metal, and now the engine doesn't budge a
millimetre. I still have to take off the heads to confirm it, but I strongly suspect that the no. 1 exhaust is a bit amiss. The one thing that
bothered me though, is that looking at the rockers & valve stems it all seemed fine. The fact that the rockers all seem to be t about the right
clearence (didn't measure, just wiggled them a bit), kind of worries me.
How much of a pain would it be to fit the beetle's engine? engine mount being my #1 concern. Only a temporary measure until can sort the kombi
engine out of course. My superbug's engine could be a thread of it's own. I want to know who the loony was that put it (and the rest of my beetle)
together. Just quickly. The oddities of my beetle engine:
Seems to be mismatched halves. looks like 1/2 kombi, 1/2 beetle
Had a 1300 carb fitted when I got the car, adaptor and all (fixed that)
Has the air filter from a standard beetle
Has at least 2 different head stud diameters
Has the dizzy from a T3 wagon
Anyhow, is it possible to put it in as a temporary measure?
Thanks all
General_failure
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Brad
Wolfsburg Elder
Posts: 3764
Threads: 332
Registered: August 24th, 2002
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posted on June 17th, 2004 at 10:13 PM |
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mmm I wouldn't bother with it, if the case isn't factory kombi then the aftermarket mounts are crap.
Maybe try and get another T4 engine
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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posted on June 18th, 2004 at 04:47 PM |
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Had a nasty feeling that was the case.
soooo.....um...did the 1600 kombi boxes have the option to have a chassis mount, and a hanging engine, like the beetle? I know that was a pointless
question.
I had a bit of a look today, All I could find in the way of VW was a 1200 beetle at the wreckers. If I wasn't moving, I would have adopted it because
it looked reasonably complete. But that's beside the point. There was a surprisingly large proportion of subies though.
So basically I'm dead in the water so to speak?
Thanks again Brad. You have saved me so much pain and suffering.
p.s. The rest of my beetle is as horribly mismatched as its engine.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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