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 71superbug
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| posted on July 16th, 2004 at 07:04 PM |
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umm. ok. my car has had no oil change for at least 20,000km's. lets just say it was my bros car and he is not mechanically minded.
and also. are the 1600's able to run premium or even unleaded?
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Anthiron
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| posted on July 16th, 2004 at 07:11 PM |
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i run standard unleaded with flash lube or lead replacement fuel with no additive. i actually dont know what oil is in there ATM becuase the last oil
change wasnt done by me however i will do an oil change before valla which will be GTX2.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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71superbug
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The Itch Itcher
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| posted on July 16th, 2004 at 08:00 PM |
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so if u run unleaded you should run this flash lube stuff?
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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| posted on July 16th, 2004 at 08:05 PM |
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flash lube is just one brand of valve lube.......it replaces the extra lubricants that are in lead replacement petrol so u can run unleaded through
your engine......i dont know if it helps alot but i use it.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Adam_C
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| posted on July 18th, 2004 at 05:29 PM |
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havent read all the posts but we need to know, VW"S HAVE HARDENED VALVE SEATS< THEY DO NOT NEED THE LUBE >>>> DO THE READING IN PREV
POSTS AND DONT WASTE UR HARD EARNED CASH
anyhoo.... post on hehe
Adam
Adzslick@iprimus.com.au
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 barls
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| posted on July 19th, 2004 at 07:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Adam_C
havent read all the posts but we need to know, VW"S HAVE HARDENED VALVE SEATS< THEY DO NOT NEED THE LUBE >>>> DO THE READING IN PREV
POSTS AND DONT WASTE UR HARD EARNED CASH
anyhoo.... post on hehe
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not all vw have hardened valve seats only the ones that have ether new performance heads or heads that have been converted to unleaded. cause the
original style valve guides were softer due to the lubricating effects of lead in the fuel. with the new fuels lead has been replaced by ethyl benzine
which does not lube valve seat and shafts
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AdrianH
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| posted on July 22nd, 2004 at 02:16 PM |
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I run a 96 octane gas with no additive and 32 degrees total advance with 9:1 compression. Never had any pinging. I have never run any additive in any
VW engine, and never had a valve recession problem.
As for oil - my understanding is all the additives that modify an oil to make it multigrade break down pretty quick, so you may as well buy a standard
30 weight oil and call it quits. Put the money into something else - like beer.
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tassupervee
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| posted on July 22nd, 2004 at 07:18 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by AdrianH
As for oil - my understanding is all the additives that modify an oil to make it multigrade break down pretty quick, so you may as well buy a standard
30 weight oil and call it quits. Put the money into something else - like beer.
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W T F?????????
Go figure..............
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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AdrianH
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| posted on July 22nd, 2004 at 08:01 PM |
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heres a link with a few links off it !!!
http://www.oceanstreetvideo.com/vwtech/oil.htm
Might be all bullshit - make up your own mind I guess...
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on July 23rd, 2004 at 08:27 PM |
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M8
Youll find that many of those dudes are just dazzling themselves in science.
VW's are just not rocket science. With such low specific power outputs and low rpm's the damned things will happily run on about anything that feels
oily.
There is so much verbal diahorrea regarding oils for VW's as to what one particular dude reckons is better than an other and some almost preposterous
claims made by some dudes as to what may or may not happen if you run some fancy jungle juice or other. I find it laughable when some oil is the next
great thing and "my engine runs smoother, starts easier, gets better fuel economy and bloodywell detonates a whole lot less than
before"........bah!
These claims are often based on recollections and anecdotes from their mates who"had a ""mate"" that knew some bloke that ran some fancy
multi-vis, ipso-facto, chechomahoota minus 10w-330 oil in his engine and the engine simply disintegrated in a puff of logic".
Usually heresay and the bulk of the failures attributed to lubrication (or lack of it) may well be traced to a big end cap bolt failure or some other
far less sinister metalurgical failure.
gawd, i remember when I bought my first bevel-drive Ducati Vee-twin.
All the nay-sayer came out of the woodwork with the tiresome and repetitive accounts of one of these mysterious "mates" who "had a mate" who spent
more time pushing his Ducati than riding it due to, big end failures every six months or electrical gremlins in the old italian
electrics...........................
When quizzed more closely, these said "mates" can never be found, if they ever existed and indeed most of them had never even had a mate that owned
a Ducati......
All of it is bullshit and the failures are almost always a result of bad or non-existent maintenance.
Give
Me
A
Break!
Anyway, Im going to have a bex and a good lie down now!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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boof2332
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| posted on July 24th, 2004 at 09:26 AM |
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Hey Tassupervee,
I am no expert on oil or petrol and only try and make educated decisions on what I read. The comment I made earlier about the synthetic oil rejecting
heat was firstly from an article on 4 dyno tested 2000cc+ aircooled engines. All of their head temps went up with the use of synthetic oil. I then
read this ......
Gene Berg enterprises
Online Parts Catalog
Oil
OIL10-ND Non detergent 10 weight for break-in of new engines in cold weather.
OIL20-ND Non detergent 20 weight for break-in of new engines in normal weather
OILR25W50 25W50 Pennzoil GT performance racing oil
OIL10/30 Detergent multi grade 10-30 weight
OIL10/30 TORCO Torco multi grade 10-30 weight
OILR/30 Racing 30 weight
OILR/40 Racing 40 weight
OIL-GR Gear oil 85/90 weight
OILM-GR Synthetic gear oil 75/90 weight.
Note 1: Synthetic gear oil will provide the best fuel mileage, smoothest shifting and longest life. For all standard transaxles. Do not use with a ZF
limited slip.
Note 2: We do not sell or use synthetic engine oil for the air-cooled VW as it rejects heat. The air cooled VW depends on the oil to soak up the heat
from the head and carry it back to the oil cooler. With the synthetic oil the head temperature goes up and the oil temperature went down.
I am doing some testing on a new development in the synthetic engine oil that is advertised to pick up heat from the oil and take it to the cooler
without viscosity break down. I will let you know in the future if it lives up to its claims.
Top of Page
PARTS & ACCESSORIES | TECH TIPS | ABOUT GENE BERG
DEE BERG TOYS | MEET OUR TEAM | HOME
NEW PRODUCTS | PHOTO ALBUM | OLD STICKERS
GENE BERG ENTERPRISES
1725 North Lime Street
Orange, California 92865
The 2332 will be finished very soon...I guess I will have to try for myself.
Matt
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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That really hurts doesnt it!
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| posted on July 24th, 2004 at 11:43 AM |
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Dude
Be assured I was not pointing the acid tongue at you or any other dude on this forum, generally just some of the claims and stuff I have read ( and
laughed out loud at) over the years regarding oils and fuels, and not just on this forum.
The "rejecting heat" claim is a very curious one as this flies in the face of the very properties of nearly any decent, FULL synthetic oils.
Remember, that up until relatively recently, many so-called "Synthetic" oils were not full synthetic at all. Just blends of minerasl oils with
synthetic compounds/polimers/molecules/atomic paticles :blah added.
Mobil 1 was one of these despite the claims of being a "Full Synthetic"
How they were getting around this blatant mis-representation is beyond me but probably runs along the same preposterous lines as the old "Made in
Australia' & "Product of Australia" both which qualify for the green triangle and both infer being australian made but in fact are not even
closely related......other than available in Australia..............go figure
Again, the science of tuning a kraut is not a rocket one. Low specific power output, low RPMs and low bearing loads. Compare a kraut to any of the
air-cooled Nipponeeze big inch bikes of a few years ago. These things were producing around 130 Hp/litre (some more, some less) at 12000rpm and well
beyond and seemed to survive for many tens of thousands of kilometers on anything from straight 30 weight deisel oil right thru to the very best
synthetic stuff from Redline and Amsoil.
These things are asked to perform in a hideous environment of varying airflows over/around the engine, hidden away under a blanket of fibreglass
rather than having the luxury of fan forced cooling and survive well enough on whatever happens to be put in them.
So, the moral is for most of us not to get too bent out of shape over the (supposed/claimed) quality of a given oil and its supposed heat rejecting
properties (I notice that the article did not quote what oil it was actually running) How old is the article?
Anyways, good luck with your new toy.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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AdrianH
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| posted on July 24th, 2004 at 02:37 PM |
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FWIW Im using GTX Protec - because I like the name. - No problems at all...
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boof2332
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| posted on July 24th, 2004 at 05:21 PM |
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Its all cool........
NOW ....WHICH OIL DID WE DECIDE ON AFTER ALL THAT?????
Matt
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on July 24th, 2004 at 05:25 PM |
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GTX 2:bounce
tssnq.com.au
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Boozer
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| posted on July 24th, 2004 at 08:05 PM |
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If it burns it goes in my tank. If it's slippery it goes down the oil filler.
What's this about VW's having hardened valve seats? I was (i'm no expert here) under the impression that they didn't have them and a additive was
needed. I've been using flashlube for more than 2 years had no problems.
THe MC Bat Commander's motto: "Never do now, what you could do for 24 hours straight, all night, the night before."
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 Peter Leonard
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| posted on July 25th, 2004 at 12:25 AM |
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I'm not trusting the people who put the seats in my heads to have put a specifically hardened metal in there. they could be cheapies... they could be
kickass titanium or summin..how do you really know? one way to find out is not to use an additive that costs about 12 bucks for every 500litres of
fuel you use. but that could work out realll spensive, so I'm sticking to flashlube. don't use valve seat protection, by all means, but check your
clearances every so often and watch for the telltale signs. for those of use running dual valve springs and even triple valve springs I'd think it
would be a good idea too. flashlube. mmmm. tasty.
let sleeping dubs lie
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tassupervee
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| posted on July 25th, 2004 at 12:52 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Boozer
If it burns it goes in my tank. If it's slippery it goes down the oil filler.
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Bwaaahaha a man after my own heart.
A point to ponder is that flashlube and other lead substututes are not there to lube valve guides and other parts but purely as a cushion or shock
absorber between the valve face/seat.
Sadly, spring loaded poppett valves dont close with a neat single click as we would imagine (hope for (dream about)) but with a nasty, uncontrolled
and ever decreasing buzzing consisting of a multitude of tiny openings and closings.
This nastiness can be (sort of) demonstrated by gently bringing the faces of two hammers together.
(Dont do this hard tho children as hardened hammer heads have been known to shatter when hit against each other hard enough)......
These nasty and uncontrolled repetitive closings result in high wear rates and the dreaded valve recession, not to mention in extreme cases removing
the heads off valves, collet and retainer failure, broken springs and so on.
This fun and games is a result of the combined harmonic properties of the valve spring and the valve train components.
A very common way to deal with these harmonics is to employ double or even triple valve springs as the different resonant frequencies of the different
springs, combined with the other valve train components act agains one another effectively cancelling/reducing/eliminating this destructive bouncing
of the valve on closing.
The seating pressure of the valve is but one condition that affects valve seat wear and what will really do the job on valve train goodies is
destructive valve bouncing and badly profiled closing ramps on cams resulting in the valve slamming shut.
All that mega seating pressure and multiple springs clobber will actually prolong seat/valve faces, rather than contribute to seat recession.
Seating pressure alone has little to do with valve control and springs can be wound in a variety of linear and progressive tensions and simply upping
the seating pressure may not control a valve at high lift.
As a matter of interest, in F-Vee, some guys are using springs seated at as little as 55Lb seating pressure and controlling the valve at up to
6500rpm. Mind you this is on a stock camshaft.
I personally use 65-68 Lb seating pressure on box stock springs and my engine will happily run to 6200rpm
Pandy's F-Vee will top 6500rpm with the same seating pressure.
Everything sure changes when very aggressive cam profiles are used but the basic rules apply right across the board.
Happy oiling.......FWIW I use Castrol Synthetic 0w30 in the F-Vee as it is cheap and available everywhere. I change it twice a year.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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AdrianH
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| posted on July 26th, 2004 at 01:44 PM |
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Thanks Mr Supervee  all good info...
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on July 26th, 2004 at 06:39 PM |
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hehehehe cewl dude!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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DubCrazy
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| posted on July 26th, 2004 at 07:10 PM |
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Come on people everyone has ther own opinion, one says this one says that.. at the end of the day we drive volksies and as much as we all love them
they leak the oil right back out on our nice driveways and shed floors... they dont call them oildrippers for nothing hehee..........at the end of the
day as long as it runs and gets us where we want to go it works... Myself i add a small amout of castrol tts 2 stroke bike oil into my tank.. why??
well i use it on my motorcrosser and i always have some fuel left over from a days racing so it goes in the beetle :P:thumb:P
steff......................................... |
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MUD BASHING ANYONE ??
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on July 26th, 2004 at 08:01 PM |
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Yeah theres nothing wrong with a bit of 2 stroke oil mine gets a bit of motul 800 mix after each ride |
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