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 oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 11:28 AM |
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Heat Riser Replacements
Those "heater blankets' that wrap around the manifold- how effective are they? I've got a single carb, TP manifold that needs warming - should i
use two 'blankets'? On on each side of the vertical intack tube?
Cheers
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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 Bizarre
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 12:49 PM |
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why does it need warming??? (besides it is cold)
Your heat risers "should" provide enough heat. It works well in Europe and USE so it should in Melbourne.
Are they clean??
Are they connected??
Are you running a stock exhaust or extractors???
Personally i cant believe a 12 V system will put enough heat to warm a manifold - but a few people use them so ...... 
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 12:53 PM |
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i have this problem on really cold mornings....the top of my manifold ices up and my 1600 sp wont idle. my heat risers are connected though i have
extractors. only the top bit ices up where the manifold bends in towards the car. how much are these things and where do u get them?
Nick
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 01:09 PM |
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http://www.bigboyztoys.co.uk/news/index.php?m=200311
Product Details
Aircooled parts and accessories:Custom electrical parts
I.M.D.U.
The IMDU ( Inlet Manifold De-icing Unit ) is a revolutionary
product that is sweeping the world. Regardless of whether you
suffer from icing or not, the neck of your manifold always runs at a
cooler temperature, and will not give optimum performance. The
IMDU alleviates this by regulating it's own temperature & uses a
current of only 1.8 amps (equivalent to a side-lamp bulb). It fits
most 1200cc to 1600cc air-cooled engines in 6v or 12v form as
well as an extra-long type for vehicles with twin choke webbers.
Price - 29.95 GBP
1.8 amps x 12 volts = 21.6 Watts
I dont think that will warm a gnat's nuts!
[Edited on 17-8-2004 by blue74l]
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 01:10 PM |
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might be just enough to stop the ice forming.....
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 01:25 PM |
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put your hand on a 20W light bulb and tell me if you burn yourself??
Save your money and just breath over your manifold before starting it. You will get more heat.
:thumb
you may gather i am not a believer :jesus
Futue te ipsum!!!
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 vw54
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 01:39 PM |
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check the pre heat tubes to see if there block and get a new mainfold if so.
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vw54
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 01:39 PM |
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check the pre heat tubes to see if there blocked and get a new mainfold if so.
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oval TOFU
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 02:12 PM |
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I've heard from a few posts here before, that they aren't really effective as they dont generate enough heat... but then I've heard that they work
too...
I'm going to be running Genie extractors and the heat riser outlets have been welded up. I could drill them out, but the single carb, TP
manifold i have has a large crack running nearly the length of the metal surrounding the manifold and riser tubes (the softer lighter coloured metal).
So I am sussing out my options...
a> drill out the outlets and get a new manifold
b> go with the heater blanket
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Bitte, ein Bit!
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 02:15 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Anthiron
i have this problem on really cold mornings....the top of my manifold ices up and my 1600 sp wont idle. my heat risers are connected though i have
extractors. only the top bit ices up where the manifold bends in towards the car. how much are these things and where do u get them?
Nick
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I think AVWPC in Melb sells em for abotu $35... i know that's not much help when you're in Brisy
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 02:24 PM |
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Be aware the a extractor doesnt pump the exhaust through like a stock exhaust does. An extractor set has takes off at exh ports 2 and 4
A stock has one at 2 ( or is it 4) and the other is actually joined at the collector inside the exhaust.
An extractor just pulses the gas back and forth.
A stock exhaust flows it through the heater tubes.
You can/could modify the extractors but the pulse is better than nothin ( and nothin is better than a IMDU :kiss )
NEW manifolds are nor cheap.
I would keep my eye out for a good second hand one and clean the tubes really well.
You can buy replacement tube.
As for the crack - i would just put a hose clamp around the tubes and join it that way
Futue te ipsum!!!
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 02:30 PM |
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I think the crack leaks exhaust as well, I was cleaning it out with turps and it was dripping from the crack...
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...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 02:33 PM |
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If it is cracked and leaks it is fooked.
Test with water or air.
If not hose clamps would suffice till a better one was found
Futue te ipsum!!!
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 02:38 PM |
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bugga... cant weld it up can ya? I suppose the weld material would be totally different from the surrounding stuff..
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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vw54
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| posted on August 17th, 2004 at 06:33 PM |
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If you have a Stockie go with the heater tube and get a new mainfold
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