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Author: Subject: extra oil cooler
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posted on January 14th, 2003 at 10:20 PM


Hi

Bergmeister, a 16 row Fabre worked fine on my brothers 2 Kombi, it was mounted on the front bumper. Just find a smaller fan. If you need a bigger cooler buy 2 130 row ones and run them in parallel.

There is no danger in fitting an external oil cooler, when fitting you need to use your brains and make sure the hoses don't rub etc. I think what Berg said about not needing bigger external coolers is not true. Ask anyone who runs a serious big motor built correctly and they all need the extra cooling at sometime, it depends on the weather.

I have been running a cooler at the front of my bug since the 70s and have never had a failure except a few years ago in peak hour traffic in George street Sydney CBD. I had the line fail right on a swaged fitting, I reckon it was Pertecs fault, they thought otherwise. I'm now using braided line from the sandwich block for about 300 mm then it goes back to 1/2 rubber line.

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posted on January 17th, 2003 at 08:26 AM
cool


Here's how I keep my engine cool. the lines are pretty short, they run from holes tapped into the block where the dog house cooler used to be. I use 150psi hydraulic hose from enzed. The cooler is a 96 plate messer cooler with a davis craig thermo fan. All up this set up owes me about $250 but it's a tight fit. The oil will get to about 85-95 around town and on the freeway in summer. Sometimes I forget to put the thermo fan on and it climbs a little above 100. Push the car around Eastern Creek for 3 laps on a bloody hot day and it gets up to 125 which is where my guage ends. Luckily Castrol GP50 is good to 150.
I've runs some ducting up to the cooler but I can't determine if it makes any difference.

P.S the engine is a 1916 with 9.5:1 CR and Street Eliminators.

CYA, CT

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posted on January 17th, 2003 at 09:15 AM


ok now you see how little i know!
have we been talking about 2 different types of oil cooler here or is there only one?
i have an oil cooler in my motor already dont i- its standard!
do i replace that with something that can have hoses fitted to it that travel to another external cooler under the van somewhere?
do i replace the present oil cooler with a bigger and better one?
how many options are there?
like i have said before- I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT CARS!!!!!
im a nurse and if you get sick and are in intensive care IM YOUR MAN!!!
but cars????? nothing!!
you guys all seem to know your stuff and make it sound really easy--but its not!!
i have spoken to MICK MOTORS (this websites sponsor) and he catagorically states that he is against fitting an external oil cooler
he believes that they arent necessary and will only bring trouble
HE EVEN QUESTIONS THE ACCURATENESS OF THE OIL TEMP GUAGE
what is the best way to measure oil temp?

lotsa questions needing lotsa answers
i have been supplied with some elephant ears and will put them on today
going to tenterfield tomorrow so i will see how my temp sits with those

thanks for all your time and help
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shocked.gif posted on January 17th, 2003 at 11:30 AM
Steel Braid Hose - OverKill - Yes


There are hoses and there are hoses.. if You know the difference between the good & the rubbish use reinforced rubber oil hose.... I just didn't want to be responsible for AZZ in having a blown engine due to a cheap & nasty oil hose or fitting letting go.... The reusable hydraulic hose fittings are the best... as I said I never had one fall off or blow.. but I was using the BEST but still worked out less than 1/2 the cost of Perteks etc in which the connectors are NOT reusable and are crimped on with a Machine.... about 1/4 as good as a hand screwed on fitting. We are NOT talking of Major runs of hose here either, only short lengths. Anyway Ben Durie knows what He's doing... I WILL say that Steel braid Hose IS a Bit of OVER KILL... Apoligies... a Good quality oil hose & Fittings made by a Major Manufacturer such as Duffield will no doubt do the job just as Well....



Quote:
Originally posted by amazer
come on people! Steel braided hoses are an expensive overkill. Bursting hoses? How much oil pressure are your cars running! You'll probably blow up the filter before a hose. Go buy some high temp oil hose and some hose clamps.
:D:o:bounce




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posted on January 17th, 2003 at 12:18 PM


68autobug you still havent helped me- i dont have the mechanical knowledge to understand what you are saying- i DO appreciate it though
BUT i have now installed my elephant ears and they HAVE helped!!
they really work!!!
ive just been driving around brisvegas for the last hour in heavy traffic and it didnt get over 110 degrees!!
tomorrow will be the big test though
Tenterfield here i come!!

ps can anyone tell me the most accurate way to measure oil temp
any stats on vdos and how accurate they are?
more than two mechanics (well respected) dont believe my van runs that hot and believe its inaccurate
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posted on January 17th, 2003 at 02:44 PM


azz. with your 2 litre type 4 you need to get a sandwhich plate that goes between the oil filter and the engine. There are 2 types. One with a thermostat and one without. I urge you to use a thermostat one so you dont run too cool. 2 hoses connect to the sandwich plate. One takes oil to the cooler the other brings oil back. You dont remove your original cooler. Oil cooler can be mounted anywhere on a kombi. there's no ground clearance issues. and you only need a small cooler if you need one at all.

I dont think you should need one on a standard engine but it cannot possibly hurt if you use decent hose. Dont get hose from hardware house/bunnings or even the car parts chains. Go to pirtek, enzed/duffield etc. Tell them what it is used for and they will sort you out. Their business is 99% oil hose. Take your oil cooler and sandwich plate there and they will give you fittings for them with the right threads etc. You dont wnat crimped on fittings with braided hose. Its not necessary.

reading temperature: I use an Autometer gauge in my kombi. Its mechanical and it sits in the oil line to the cooler. Note: to the cooler not from the cooler. You want to know how hot you are getting not how good your cooler is working. It is very accurate as far as I can tell. It reads very slightly under 100 when in a boiling pot of water. Which is good cos 100 degree water is bubbling off to the sky. I use autometer cos I sent my mum to bergs and they told her "we dont use VDO cos they're crap" so she got me autometer. I dont know if they ARE crap or not. Autometer certainly are not crap. I think mechanical gauges must be more accurate than electrical.

What some people do is remove the thermostat cos they break and are relatively unobtainable. Which is OKish so long as the flaps are still installed underneath your tinware. If they are installed and stuck down then at least the air is being directed to the right place. You can see if your flaps are installed. At the top of the fan housing there should be a thin rod running from right to left. See if thats there first. There should be a spring in the right hand side. Try turning the rod with a pair of pliers and make sure it springs back.




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posted on January 17th, 2003 at 03:12 PM


yep amazer its there
it didnt really 'spring' back until i gave it a bit of wd40 treatment- now its 'springing' fine
so where is the original oil cooler- can i see it without taking the engine out?
i havent a clue where it is

thanks for your help everybody
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posted on January 17th, 2003 at 03:25 PM


the oil cooler sits just behind the fan housing on the left hand side. If you look from underneath you can see it.



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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 10:24 AM


well since fitting my 'elephant ears' the oil temp hasnt been over 120 degrees even when i was driving over 100 km/hr and it was 40 degrees that day
so i might just leave it be and see what happens
thanks for everybodys help and advice
but thanks mostly to alecs ears

[Edited on 22-1-2003 by azz]
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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 02:49 PM


I know this won't help but at Bergs web site in an artical he has stated that all gauges he has tested can be as much as 50° out. Is this just more missimformation leftover from the 60s. Whats eveyones thoughts.

Cheers Nige
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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 03:42 PM


i have always queried the accuracy of my oil temp guage-
there doesnt seem to be any info on variances in the temp measured and real temp
is there any way to check them for real
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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 04:35 PM


NE1 know how much those dipstick senders cost ?



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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 04:57 PM


I think Gene must have been on some waccy tobaccy that day. Maybe HIS gauge was the one that was a long way out. Or maybe the ones he tested were from the Dapto markets. Or maybe he didnt want us cutting holes in the dash. Or maybe he got some dipstick senders made up in mexico and was trying to flog them off.



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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 05:27 PM


Dave the Pom
1- who checks ignition timing? my mechanic?
2-how do i check it against a known guage? who is likely to have one?
3-if i throw away my sump guage what do i put in the whole to plug it up?
4-do i have a fan? if so how do i clean it?
5-how do i check if i am not running front
and rear engine tins and cooking my engine nicely?
6-where do i get a berg engine sender?

i thought i was doing rather nicely considering it was 40 degrees, i was doing 100 km/hr and i was running under 120 degrees
what do you think?
remember to keep your answers simple for the lay person---no mechanical knowledge at all
i still dont even know where the oil filter is
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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 06:03 PM


Azz, I'd start by buying yourself a workshop manual. :)



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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 06:03 PM


1- he does. But you could do it yourself very easily if you bought your own timing light.
2-Drop the sender into a pot of boiling water.
3-You can buy plugs from pirtek/enzed etc. Or you could whack on another sump plate.
4-when you open the lid and look in, you see a round thing with a belt staring at you. Thats it. Doesnt look like your average car/house fan with propellor type blades, but thats the fan. You will see straight away if there is anything blocking it.
5-The entire engine should be sealed off against the body of the car. You should have a foam 'snake' running around the entire engine sealing it to the body. If there are gaps, something is missing.

6-leaving this one alone.

I reckon under 120 is OK. For what ists worth.

Lay on the ground and you will see the oil filter on the left hand side of the engine. right near the oil cooler.

[Edited on 23-1-2003 by amazer]




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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 06:07 PM


the accuracy of the gauge at one temperature doesnt give u much of an idea of accuracy at other temps.

Anyway they give u a relatively good idea of how hot its gettin.




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posted on January 22nd, 2003 at 06:46 PM


excellent
i am leaving this topic alone
thanks for the help gang
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