| [ Total Views: 540 | Total Replies: 27 | Thread Id: 30368 ] |
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 Adam_C
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| posted on October 21st, 2004 at 12:22 PM |
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Installing a stereo? How?
Hey, i can do most engine things, lower the car, paint the car but ill be buggered if i can stand or understand wiring
geting quite a good head unit at quite a good price and i need to know the best way to install it
i will run it off the same wire as my old one from the ignition barrel but should i route it through the fusebox... run inline fuses?
please if you can give be a full intro into wiring it im.... do i need relays's or any of that shit?
cheers
adam
Adam
Adzslick@iprimus.com.au
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ColumBUS
A.k.a.: The Liquid Chef
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| posted on October 22nd, 2004 at 08:02 AM |
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hey man
i can conscript little brother the technical genius to come your way and hook it up for you. he'll even show you how its done.
by the way, i put the 6x9s in today, it sounds bloody amazing!
after doing mine muzz should be able to get urs running in a snap.
my only concern is space the in the dash. my mp3 player still doesnt fit properly as its too deep for the winyl dashboard. have you measured the depth
of your headdeck in comparison to the dash?
Daniel
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Adam_C
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| posted on October 22nd, 2004 at 09:28 AM |
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i have an early dash, its a different setup hehe youll notice it when u see my car, i am actually installing the stereo somewhere else hidden, not
leaving this one in the dash they stole the first one and that was an xplode $150 deck..... this one is considerably more expensive hehe
Adam
Adzslick@iprimus.com.au
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pyr0
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| posted on October 22nd, 2004 at 09:31 AM |
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yeh hidden setero's are a much better idea  way safer 
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
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DIY-DUB
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| posted on October 22nd, 2004 at 10:31 AM |
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i could do it 4 ya maybe |
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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| posted on October 22nd, 2004 at 12:16 PM |
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drive up to the sunshine coast. you can jack up my baja and ill install your stereo:P
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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ColumBUS
A.k.a.: The Liquid Chef
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| posted on October 22nd, 2004 at 02:40 PM |
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sounds like a fair swap... hehehe.
i know about the other dash, where are you hiding it i need a new head deck... i mean... i need a place to hide my current shit head deck, thats what
i meant to say... of course. mines not going anywhere dads making sure of that, we'ree drilling a hole thru the dash so it pokes through, with a
large spider-like hooked nut goin on the end that essentially holds the cd player to the car. if someone wants to try and rip my deck their gonna have
to rip right through the car.
plus the two car batteries that are linked to the body will deter criminals, also turn them to dust hehehe, thatd be rad if it was legal...
Daniel
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type1ute
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| posted on October 22nd, 2004 at 04:08 PM |
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it should telll you all the colours are for what, never just twistand tape wires, and yes it happens all the time, inline fuse is sufficient, you will
need constant power (BATTERY) FUSED
accessory power.... generally direct from keybarrel when switched to acc
earth.... good earth otherwise you will get noise through system
then speakerwire
and maybe dimmer, direct from light switch power when parkers are on
try and get all wires soldered much neater and a better connection
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scottbugged
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| posted on October 22nd, 2004 at 09:34 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Kroozin_Kikko
sounds like a fair swap... hehehe.
i know about the other dash, where are you hiding it i need a new head deck... i mean... i need a place to hide my current shit head deck, thats what
i meant to say... of course. mines not going anywhere dads making sure of that, we'ree drilling a hole thru the dash so it pokes through, with a
large spider-like hooked nut goin on the end that essentially holds the cd player to the car. if someone wants to try and rip my deck their gonna have
to rip right through the car.
plus the two car batteries that are linked to the body will deter criminals, also turn them to dust hehehe, thatd be rad if it was legal...
Daniel
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Just remember that no matter how good your radio is installed, they still break a window or a door lock to try and take the radio, hidden is allways
safer.
Getting over
Hippopotomonstrosesquippedaliophobia
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boppa
A.k.a.: c1
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| posted on October 24th, 2004 at 12:03 AM |
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soldering isnt recommended anymore-it tends to break the wires just where the solder stops unless the cable is cabletied both sides of the join so it
cant flex.much easier is go to repco or any other auto parts store and get a cheap set of crimpers and a pack of inline crimp connectors(there are 4
sizes but only 3 are usually stocked-red(small wires up to 3mm,blue 3-5mm and yellow 6mm up to8mm)
use the reds for light gauge speaker wires and cheap stereo power leads,blue for higherpowered amps with 4mm power leads
if you are fitting a real high powered amp(2x200w or the like) run the amps power cable straight to the battery NOTE!!! the amp will have a fuse
either built into it or right next to it.THIS IS NOT ENOUGH!!
fit a heavy duty screw together fuse at the battery
this applies to any power wires hooked straight to the battery-that way if it gets damaged and shorts to the body,you wont have to watch your pride
and joy turn into a bonfire :cry
also cabletie all wires neatly into place after you have tested everything out- this not only prevents damage but is a legal requirement- also check
they dont get fouled by moving parts like the heater controls
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boppa
A.k.a.: c1
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| posted on October 24th, 2004 at 12:03 AM |
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woops double post :blush
[Edited on 23-10-2004 by boppa]
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type1ute
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| posted on October 27th, 2004 at 04:45 PM |
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so boppa, your saying wat i do all day everyday, and give a life time warranty on, is the wrong way and thatcrimping the wires together.... allowing
to wires to touch each other instead of becoming fused together is the better way???
do you no watsort of reistance crimps can have????
we had one car come in and one side of the crimps was reading 12.8v
and the other side was 11.8 volts
which is enough to stop a radio working
solder does offer resistance, but far less then other means, and as long as soldered correctly will last an extremly long time
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 barls
A.k.a.: Mr indestructible
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| posted on October 27th, 2004 at 05:03 PM |
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it all depends on the skill of the person doing it. ive always soldered my wires together but i was taught how to solder at a young age and am now a
electronics tech for the navy.
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boppa
A.k.a.: c1
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 11:38 AM |
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it isnt the resistence thats the problem-in auto electrical work its the vibration causing the solder joins to break physically if not well
secured-esp if the roads are lousy or its got hard suspension
crimps arent that bad-check the factory harness and see how much solder its got
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type1ute
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 11:47 AM |
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they only reason they use plugs is becuase they are mass assembled, and need parts to be realidly removable
resistance is a huge problem, specially when using equipment the requires a specific or higher voltage to work..... like most car stereo's
i have never seen a broken solder on any car i have owned, or worked on
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boppa
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 11:54 AM |
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i do prefer solder for some jobs,crimping for others
i got one here (the purple buggy in my sig) that had soldered joints in its kenwood-now crimped due to wires breaking(even under heatshrink)
i was just relating my exp as an autoelec ok
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type1ute
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 01:33 PM |
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just in an auto elec apprent, you are meant to do 30 hrs of solderin, y if it s##t????
[Edited on 2-11-2004 by type1ute]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 01:33 PM |
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Right type1ute...
I have soldered every connection in My Beetle - which I have totally rewired... using many more wires and connections than Volkswagenwerk did, and
I've never seen one of My soldered connections break.. since 1968..... I solder all the copper crimp connections too.... The wires that may break
after being soldered are the very thin wires used for low power speaker applications... if these soldered connections are covered with heatshrink
plastic about 50mm long they will also last forever... I have used heatshrink plastic to cover most of My very few connections and soldered crimp
type connectors...
I don't like crimp connections and I have a pair of expensive crimping pliers - I only crimp onto soldered wires anyway...
on someone elses car!!
Lee Noonan
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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type1ute
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 01:35 PM |
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i wont crimp on other peoples cars at all, unless requested to by owner, other wise i refuse to, i take pride in mywork, and our shop gives life time
warranty on all our work
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boppa
A.k.a.: c1
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 01:43 PM |
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i wont solder on other peoples cars at all, unless requested to by owner, other wise i refuse to, i take pride in my work
doesnt sound so good does it
i wont bother replying anymore
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 01:56 PM |
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The main reason why I crimp soldered wires on other peoples cars is that I cannot buy the copper solder type terminals locally... I have to wait until
I go to Sydney... and even then I'm finding them hard to get...
I have lots of crimp on terminals... and the proper pliers not the $3 ones.....
I used to use crimp ons with driving lights many years ago with good results....
The wires have to be uncontaminated too..... old cars usually have contaminated copper wires which don't solder too well even after cleaning...
Lee Noonan VK2LEE
PS.. this is what I do... as a hobby... I don't do it to make money... and I'm not trying to put anyone down... Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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type1ute
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 01:57 PM |
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i wouldnt either if was wrong, i dont know about you, but i install up to 10 head units a day, along with speakers etc, so maybe you auto elec, i wont
ever b takin my car to you if you crimp...... crimpin is only for factory style plugs, and that is it
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type1ute
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 02:01 PM |
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i installhead units as a job, and i was only trying to give some professional advice, i m sorry that it was not help full
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boppa
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 02:15 PM |
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i was doing the same mate
im a m.v.r.i.c. trade qualified auto elec and also level3 electronics tech. plenty of experience with soldering and crimping-far too much of both :-(
both have their places
(shake hands?)
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type1ute
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 02:20 PM |
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yep, sorry mate, me just a bit moody, but you got a vw or 2, so ya no wat its all about
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boppa
A.k.a.: c1
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 02:24 PM |
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love the country bug-its a blast
btw 68AutoBug
try repco for brass crimp/solder connecters-they carry a full range and if its not at the shop they can get it in for you
also utilux make them (altho they can be a right pain in the backside to deal with directly)
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dodge
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 03:43 PM |
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ok, well i'se got a question for all of ya's
my sound system got wired up by a friend of mine who hasn't done a terrible lot of it, but more than me
anyway, everything is fine xcept one thing......
i lose all my settings every time i turn the car off :cussing
how do i fix this? it is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO annoying!!!!!!!! |
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barls
A.k.a.: Mr indestructible
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 03:50 PM |
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change where it joins the loom id suggest off the parkers or something similar that has power all the time but can be attached to the ignition
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dodge
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 03:51 PM |
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ok, can u say that again in laymans terms pls? :jesus
sorry, but i know nuthin about the electrics of my car, lol
(cept for fuses :duh) |
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type1ute
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| posted on November 2nd, 2004 at 03:51 PM |
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make sureyou have constant and accesories around the rite way,
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