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Author: Subject: Holley fuel pump
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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 04:21 PM
Holley fuel pump


Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the Holley Red fuel pump/regulator and the Blue pump and reg.
And before someone says it....the colour...!
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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 07:10 PM


A holley blue pump is a low pressure pump for carbs like webers. You still need a regulator though. I use a holley blue in my oval.

A holley red pump is a high pressure pump for fuel injected cars (I think).

The blue and red is probably a marketing thing.

IMO Holleys aren't worth the extra cash. You can get repco brand pumps that are a lot cheaper and will do the job.

Also the holley regulators need to be set up with a gauge. You can't just flick from one psi setting to the next.

Hope this helps.

CYA, CT




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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 10:06 PM


Other way around CT, blue pump with blue regulator is for higher pressure applications (hence higher price because it can pump greater volumes of fuel supposedly), red pump and regulator for low pressure applications.

I recently bought a blue pump and regulator (with a spring out of a red regulator installed) for the lower pressure application - dellortos which you are right do prefer lower pressure (~3-6psi).

Holley externally-mounted electric fuel pumps are also available in various flow ratings. The "red" pump, P/N 12-801, is rated at 97 GPH and it is designed to work with stock or mildly modified engines. Pressure is pre-set to 7 PSI and a regulator is not required. The "blue" pump, P/N 12-802, is rated at 110 GPH and it is designed for street/strip applications. Pressure is pre-set at 14 PSI and a regulator is included as part of the package. Neither pump is compatible with methanol or alcohol fuels nor should they be used with fuel injection systems. The "black" pump, P/N 12-815, is rated at 140 GPH and is designed to work with either gas or alcohol fuels. This one is similar to the "blue" pump but it kicks out more fuel. These pumps all feature a simple, yet rugged, rotor and vane design which has proved itself over the years.

This info is from :
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/FMFPTech.html 



[Edited on 12-2-2003 by Dasdubber]




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posted on February 14th, 2003 at 10:55 AM
Hmmmm.


It's a couple of years since I bought my pump, and because it's attached to the front beam, opposite the steerinb box, I can't see it.

I'm sure it's a blue. What psi is a blue? What psi is a red? I'm sure I had it sussed at the time.

Thanks for the correction. I shouldn't really guess.

Hi Das, pitty you're selling your car. I'd buy it if I had a big enough garage. Stick to your price.

CYA, CT




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posted on February 14th, 2003 at 09:57 PM


Some one gave me an old SU (i think ) brand petrol pump.
Has any one heard about these ?
I want to give it a try , but if they are unreliable then wont bother.




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posted on February 15th, 2003 at 10:22 AM


SUs are a good carb. I used to have a couple on a Datsun I drove in my uni days. All I ever had to do was balance them and once I had to get one of the floats repaired.

You can find them on jags and maybe even some holdens.

They are a side-draft carb and they work differently to webers and dellortos. I never did figure out how they worked because they were trouble free.

It's like anything some people love them some people hate them.

I don't know how you'll go fitting one to a beetle.

CYA, CT




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posted on February 16th, 2003 at 12:49 PM
SU's?- Not a good history with me!!


During the years I ran British cars with SU's I resorted to running 2 in series( ie one pumped thru the next one) to get the reliability I had to have- otherwise it was a phone call at 1am "Dad! the Midget just karked it & won't start & the RACV man can't fix it!" Every time I serviced the car I checked both were working- more often than not, 1 had stopped & the other was keeping the car going. HOWEVER, the last SU pumped car I had was a venerable MG Magnette ZB & it had a an SU look-a-like pump but with NO points to corrode & soot up & I ran it daily nonstop for 7 years & close to 70,000 MILES without a hiccup. So if SU's are still around, get a pointless one. In this era of solid state & digital electronics, there should be no reason for something as archaic as a set of points for a simple make & break circuit to work a diaphragm. I suspect the only people who run orig old SU's are the ones who like to hear that "click....click..." as they are idling at the lights!!


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