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Author: Subject: strange headlights problem???
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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 06:18 PM
strange headlights problem???


i removed my lights to do a paint job and upon fixing them back on, had this strange problem: the parklights are working fine, when its at normal lights, the bigger bulb on the right is off while all other lights are on. but if it is on high beam, all lights are on, even the right one. i checked the fuses, looked at the wirings and all looks fine to fine. did i miss anything? there must be electricity flowing thru the lights but ??? duh ??? pls help or i will be driving all around with high beams...:o
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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 06:44 PM


Never checked but is the low beam on when the high been is on?

I could just be a bad connection and the taking on and off upset it. When you go to high beam you are pushing more amps through and it over comes the "dry" connection.
Take the connection off/on again and see what happens




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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 08:57 PM


Maybe your low beam filament in that light is blown.



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posted on February 13th, 2003 at 08:36 AM


my guess is probably a poor earth.



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posted on February 13th, 2003 at 08:55 AM


Low beam filament burnt out, I'd guess. Happened to me once. They usually go first because they are used much more (if you're in the city). Solution is to get a new globe. If you do, make sure it's 60w/55w and don't go for one of those 100w plus ones or you run the risk of overloading your wiring.
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posted on February 13th, 2003 at 11:00 AM


hi all,
i have tried replacing the globe and switching the lights around (left to right) before, same problem... so it can't be the globe. will check the earth again this evening. the low beam filament still looks fine...

[Edited on 13-2-2003 by 70giorgias]
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posted on February 13th, 2003 at 11:17 AM


maybe a connection at the connector? like the wire is not making connection



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posted on February 13th, 2003 at 04:35 PM


Fuses?

There is one for each low and each high beam (4 fuses).

Poor connection to the plug on the back of the bulb (the wires can be pulled out of theis connector) ?

Poor earth (usually a brown wire screwed to the body near the fuel tank)?




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posted on February 13th, 2003 at 06:43 PM


bad earth I'd say. Head lights and tail lights never earth well thru the screws that attache them to the body work.
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posted on February 14th, 2003 at 11:40 AM


update: had a drive yesterday and the third fuse from the right keeps blowing(has done it 3 times already - i was guessing it was from the stereo). must be an electrical problem. have to get my hands on a voltmeter... blue741 could be right, it seems there is a bit of overspray on the connectors (what is the best way to remove the paint? i tried a bit of turps but i think its a bit dangerous, the electricity might cause a fire...) what can i do about the earth??
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posted on February 14th, 2003 at 10:03 PM
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Firstly low is not on when high is and visa versa. If this happens then you will get serious heat problems and you lenses will crack.
Use thinners to clean the paint. There is no fire danger as it evaporates in about 30 seconds on sunny day.
Th eproblem definatley sounds eart related.
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posted on February 17th, 2003 at 03:59 AM


[size=4]Yes its probably a bad earth - it can cause havoac with headlamps- mainly.... I have recently rewired a couple of Falcon Utes - and as they had been cut and joined before.... etc... I cut them all off and found the wires with the current in them for Hi & low Beam and then also made a new earth connection. Its always best to use new connectors and drill new holes or use larger screws. I always use stainless steel self tappers for earth screws... I would say that the current is running thru both filaments at the same time and thats why its blowing the fuses..
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sad.gif posted on February 17th, 2003 at 12:03 PM


now i am getting paraniod... sounds like i need to get it done relatively soon...
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posted on February 17th, 2003 at 12:30 PM


Re the comments on fixing poor earth connections.

As Lee says, new connectors and holes redrilled for fresh metal with new larger screws is a good idea.

As a quick fix - a light sand paper of the connectors and unscrewing the screwing up the old screws can work wonders as a too (just rubs the rust off the threads). If you can find new self tapping screws the same size - that will help freshen the connections too.

Weird stuff happens with poor earth connectors - the power TRIES to find a way back to the battery, so you can get weird effects, especially with the earth connections in the tail light area - odd things can glow when they shouldn't, and cause real head scratchers.




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posted on February 18th, 2003 at 09:46 AM
thanks guys!


thanks for the tips guys, am getting help from a fellow veedubber tomorrow, hopefully he will do the magic. i am getting hopeless with the voltmeter... will update y'all again. ";)
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posted on February 20th, 2003 at 12:54 PM


finally! i got it sorted out. thought i share the pain, i solved the right headlights by tracing the electrics, checking the ground and found the problem to be a strange fuse - the contacts were there and not broken yet there was no current flowing through it. changed the fuse, the right worked and guess what? the left lights blew! after a couple of bulbs, two mornings, several cussing, 6 fuses later... i changed the fuse to a higher resistance one and it works! (why didn't i think of that in the first place!?) hopefully, this holds up! thanks for all the suggestions, guys! really appreciate it!
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posted on February 21st, 2003 at 04:14 PM


What amp fuse are you using? Thats not really the way to fix a fault. Its just hiding it.



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posted on February 21st, 2003 at 06:26 PM


its a 16 amp fuse. is it ok? i got some advice that i should increase the amp as i am running a cd player.
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posted on February 21st, 2003 at 08:08 PM


Nah ..... i would keep looking.
IF you only have the headlight connected to that fuse something else is the matter.
I am pretty sure only teh wiper motor is 10 amps.
In Diredt Current Power = Volts X Amps
If your blowing a 8 amp fuse ..... lets be conservative 10amps X 12 volts = 120 W.

Your head lights dont pull that much!
You either have a high resistance connection somewhere or 1/2 a short.

Dont solve the problem with a bigger fuse - you could risk a fire.




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posted on February 22nd, 2003 at 12:35 PM


here is the strange thing.

it was blowing a 25 amp one, but the 16 amp works fine. it seems like the twilight zone. has my physics knowledge go awry? the more ampheres, the more voltage it carries? it seems to defy logic?
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posted on February 22nd, 2003 at 07:04 PM


Volts = Amps X resistance V=IR
Power = Volts X Amps P=VI
= Amps X Amps x Resistance P=I2R

The ONLY thing constant here is the volts.
As the resistance goes down the amps goes up. The ONLY way you can make the resistance go down is witha short.

If it was blowing a 25 A fuse and not a 16 A then i would guess it is a problem with the wiring. Somewhere you must have a part time short.
Have a REAL good look.
Mate...is it was blowing a 25A fuse that is not good. Wires are not meant to carry 25A. You risk burning a wire and melting your wiring loom...or a fire.
Not trying to scare but 25A is in the .... um ..... TFH range (Too #$@%en High)




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posted on February 25th, 2003 at 01:31 PM


thanks for the advice. will have a closer look... sounds like more time under the hood. hahah!
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posted on February 28th, 2003 at 09:11 AM


its been raining for the past two weeks in brissie and i couldn't get a chance to get under the hood without the risk of water getting in. i realized that the previous owner must have done some re-wiring. i looked up an original beetle manual on the net. this is what i found(attached)
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posted on February 28th, 2003 at 10:55 AM


? I dunno about that. I thought all fuses were 8amp (white) except for 2 red 16 amp fuses for the headlights. A bit hard to see the shading in that diagram. Maybe im reading it wrong or im just plain wrong. When you were blowing the ealrier fuses, were they possibly 2.5 amp and not 25?



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posted on March 4th, 2003 at 11:37 AM


i can't tell if its 25 or 2.5, there is no indication of a decimal. the previous owner who reconditioned the engine put the blue fuse in it. i am sure its not to match the color of the car.

i will run a voltmeter and see if i can work out the amp on that fuse, just to make sure. there is no shorts(i followed muir's book to look for shorts and apparently - none), thanks for the tips again!
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posted on March 4th, 2003 at 03:10 PM


Basic rule about choosing fuses: the fuse must have a lower current rating than the wire. That's so the fuse blows before the wire catches fire. As has been said, putting in a bigger fuse is risking a fire. Whenever you're doing any rewiring, always make sure the wire on the battery ( +ve ) side of the circuit is fused, and always make sure all wires in the circuit are rated high enough (ie are fat enough) to carry the required current. You can get an idea of what currents can be carried by different size wires by looking at the wire section in the JayCar (or similar) catalog.



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posted on March 10th, 2003 at 11:35 AM


uhmmm.. whats a jaycar catalogue?:jesus
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posted on March 10th, 2003 at 11:55 AM


The fuses should be White and 8 amp for High, Low and parkers.

You should have 6 white fuses in the block... with white going to hi Beam, Yellow is low beam and grey is parkers.

The rest should be rest 16 amps.




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posted on March 10th, 2003 at 12:06 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by 70giorgias
uhmmm.. whats a jaycar catalogue?:jesus


Jaycar is an electronics kit shop - sort of like a Dick Smiths




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