| [ Total Views: 1201 | Total Replies: 24 | Thread Id: 3801 ] |
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 68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on February 17th, 2003 at 04:16 AM |
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Latest Headlamp bulbs- 12v 55/60w Xenon
[size=4]I have updated the lights in My vehicles with Narva +PLUS 50 which are the same wattage - but VERY bright [50% brighter on Low Beam & 40%on High Beam] due to a special coating and Xenon Gas in the Bulbs.. They are VERY White & Bright... and the same Wattage.. I have Hella H4 [golf7" with P43t Bulbs] headlamps in My Beetle and I'm not sure what bulb fits the standard VW headlamp.. but they should still be available...
or convert to Hella 7" H4 headlamps.[/size]:o:thumb:bounce
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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bus914
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| posted on February 17th, 2003 at 08:46 AM |
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i wouldn't
Higher power globes draw more current. If nothing blows right away check the wiring from the headlight / high beam switch (and the switches too) with
your hand and you may notice it heating up (warning: it could also burn you). Generally higher power globes require relays, and relays have
reliability issues. They are best used on a separate secondary circuit.
Also the bluey / white light is better reflected by fog making it more blinding.
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aussiebug
A.k.a.: Rob Boardman
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| posted on February 17th, 2003 at 11:56 AM |
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I've been using the H4 55/60w halogens in my bug since they first came out in about 1974 (I bought this car in 1970).
They are a straight swap for the standard 40/45w VW headlight, - using the same double step P45t base.
(You can get them in 6v versions to fit older bugs too.)
They put out about twice the amount of light as the 40/45w bulbs and probably just a little more than the 75/75 replacement "normal" VW
bulbs, but as Lee says, the lights are now much whiter.
The small increase in current (from the normal 40/45 watt bulbs) is no problem for the wiring - the fuses stay the same rating too.
It's interesting that they are advertising them as "xenon" bulbs since ALL standard electric bulbs (12/24/240 volt etc) use xenon as
the main gas in the bulb - it's inert so it won't allow the filament to burn as it heats up. All bulbs are actually under partial vacuum
with only a little xenon gas in them.
The halogen bulbs though - have a small amount of iodine (the halogen) in them - about 2% of the total gas content I think. The halogen allows the
filament to be run about 50c hotter than a normal bulb. This temp would normally cause the filament to start vapourising and sticking to the inside
of the galss (the brown stain of a blown bulb) but the presence of the halogen gas, and the small bulb size which makes the "glass" very
hot, prevents the vapourising tungsten filament from depositing on the glass - instead it redeposits on the filament.
So with the higher filament temp, you get a HUGE output in light and in the whiter part of the spectrum - less red/yellow and a little more
green/blue.
Re the small size of the glass bulb - you might remember the older name for these bulbs - Quartz Iodine. The glass was made from clear quartz so they
could makes the bulbs smaller - closer to the filamnet, and run it at very high temps without melting. And of course the Iodine refered to the
halogen gas content. These days the bulbs are noramally made from Hard Glass, which is cheaper the Quartz but can withstand the higher temps OK.
Incidentally - NEVER touch the glass part of these bulbs with your fingers - hold them with a tissue or wear gloves. The natural oils on your skin
will bake into the glass at the high temps they use, reducing the light output and reducing the life of the bulb.
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Robo
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 posted on February 17th, 2003 at 06:55 PM |
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lights
So what would you recomend as a upgrade replacement for the old bulbs in my Kombi
I have the original headlight reflectors and glass.
Rob..... |
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Andy
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| posted on February 17th, 2003 at 10:36 PM |
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There's also Xenon gas Discharge globes
http://www.hella.com.au/technology/tech_frset.html
"twice the light with half the power" from the hella catalogue.
The Halogen + Xenon bulbs put out 30% more light for the same power but don't require the separate electronics the Xenon gas discharge globe
require
http://www.hella.com.au/ and look in new products
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aussiebug
A.k.a.: Rob Boardman
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| posted on February 18th, 2003 at 12:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Robo
So what would you recomend as a upgrade replacement for the old bulbs in my Kombi
I have the original headlight reflectors and glass.
Rob.....
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A set of H4 55/60w halogen bulbs will work wonders if you still have the 40/45w original style bulbs.
The H4s are a plug in replacement.
If you still have the large semi-circular shield inside the reflector (used to prevent "scatter" light coming off the front of the standard
bulbs), you can remove it if using H4s - they have a blackened tip which does the same thing, and removing the large shield adds a little more to the
light on the road.
As I said above - I've been using H4s since about 74 - and I've driven all over Aus in my bug (Darwin, Cairns Perth, Canberra and many other
places) - a lot at night. No need for extra spot lights with the H4s.
Make sure they have the P45t double step base which fits into the VW reflector (some other types will sort-of fit but won't focus quite as
well.)
Many auto shops carry them as well as the VW shops.
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mnsKmobi
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| posted on February 19th, 2003 at 08:39 AM |
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| Quote: |
If you still have the large semi-circular shield inside the reflector (used to prevent "scatter" light coming off the front of the standard
bulbs), you can remove it if using H4s -
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Is there a way to get those shields out without wrecking them? They seem to be almost like a ship in a bottle - how did they get them in there? (Or is
it just me?)
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aussiebug
A.k.a.: Rob Boardman
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| posted on February 19th, 2003 at 02:07 PM |
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You completely separate the reflector from the glass lens - then just untwist the tabs on the arms of the shield and it pulls out of the reflector.
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mnsKmobi
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| posted on February 20th, 2003 at 08:40 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by aussiebug
You completely separate the reflector from the glass lens - then just untwist the tabs on the arms of the shield and it pulls out of the reflector.
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Thanks. I'll give it a go on the weekend.
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on February 20th, 2003 at 10:30 PM |
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I've been using 100/90w halogens in the Bus for about 8 years and had no ill effects. I am running a heavy duty 40 amp rated double relay for
them. This combined with the 2x 100w spotties makes for comfortable night driving.
In the EH I have 130/90W halogens in Hella H4 7" replacements.
Now that was a big change from the original 7" sealed beams
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Tnate
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| posted on February 20th, 2003 at 10:35 PM |
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I have been using Narva 100/110w globes in my beetle (72) for 2,5 years now and no ill effects.
Drove back from Echuca to Melbourne with high beams on for the majority of the journey and all is well. No overheating or hardening of wires.
I have no relays. Totally stock. Works fine
Cheers
Tnate
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kombikim
A.k.a.: Kim
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| posted on February 21st, 2003 at 07:24 AM |
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I had normal Q/H H4 globes 55w in my Carello 5 3/4 " lights in my 64 Humber Super Snipe, & they were very good, when the Xenon/Platinum
"blue" globes became cheap enough I bought a pair of 55w & was absolutely astounded with the difference, I wouldn't be without them |
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Robo
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| posted on February 27th, 2003 at 06:08 AM |
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Hey Hell bus
How dose the alternator handle it, I have 100/75 halogen globes and if I run all my other electrical stuff I can go into deficit, Kombi's only
have 55 amp alternators, there was a place doing 75 amp coversions out of a T3 Kombi, but apparently it was frying rectifiers.
Any advice on saving or getting more amps!
Rob........ |
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LittleRalph
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| posted on February 27th, 2003 at 07:50 PM |
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I haven't used the flash-1-A-1 new xenon bulbs yet but am keen to try.
I will agree with all those that said a move from the original bulbs to 55W halogens. I've just put in some second hand headlights with those
bulbs and the difference is great.
Just a note on all the electrical discussion. The Wattage on a bulb is a measure of the electrical energy it uses. This is what will effect how much
current it draws. A grotty old 55W filament bulb will draw exactly the same current as a brand new xenon and kryptonite (just kidding) bulb that may
produce many times as much light. 55W is 55W and that's that. Just like those flourescent bulbs that you can buy for the home to replace normal
light bulbs. You used a 12W flouro to replace a 60W or 75W normal bulb because the flouro transforms electical energy into light energy much more
efficiently than a light bulb.
Hope it helps.
BTW is there any easy way to get the headlight glass and the rubber seal around it back into the plastic bit that goes onto the back?
Arthur.
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Andy
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| posted on February 28th, 2003 at 07:03 AM |
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One other point on the 'blue' bulbs, when I looked into them I was told they don't stand up to rough roads as good as halogens, so I
steered away from them for the Kombi. That was a few years ago though.
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Mr Hoodjacks
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| posted on February 28th, 2003 at 02:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bus914
Higher power globes draw more current. If nothing blows right away check the wiring from the headlight / high beam switch (and the switches too) with
your hand and you may notice it heating up (warning: it could also burn you). Generally higher power globes require relays, and relays have
reliability issues. They are best used on a separate secondary circuit.
Also the bluey / white light is better reflected by fog making it more blinding.
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yes... and no. Some new bulbs are more efficient so they squeeze more light from the same current - if u know what I mean . But relays etc are a good
upgrade - takes the full load off the headlight switch and provides less V drop between battery and lights
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on February 28th, 2003 at 06:14 PM |
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The alternator and regulator handle the power ok. The spotties and high beam are not used at idle, so the battery doesn't drop down.
In 10 years of having the bus, the Alternator and the brake booster are the only two things that have never been replaced.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on February 28th, 2003 at 09:48 PM |
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High Power Bulbs & RELAYS
| Quote: | Originally
posted by bus914
Higher power globes draw more current. If nothing blows right away check the wiring from the headlight / high beam switch (and the switches too) with
your hand and you may notice it heating up (warning: it could also burn you). Generally higher power globes require relays, and relays have
reliability issues. They are best used on a separate secondary circuit.
Also the bluey / white light is better reflected by fog making it more blinding.
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[size=4]NARVA Xenon Plus 30 & PLUS 50 Extra BRIGHT Bulbs DO NOT USE ANY More Power- they are still 60/55watts - its just higher technology- same
as replacing a standard 55/60w sealed beam headlamp with a H4 Quartz Halogen sealed beam unit... its twice as bright- BUT uses the same amount of
Power- 55/60 watts.. Just newer Technology - If You try to use 100/90w bulbs. You will probably blow a fuse or melt the wires... PLUS They are
Illegal to be used on the roads. RELAYS - are VERY reliable, unless You get used Taiwanese ones from the wreckers.!!My 68 AutoBug will be running
about 8 or 9 relays- which means My original 1968 electrical switches will last indefinately due to them having Milliamps running thru them instead of
AMPS... Most New Cars use relays for everything...[/size]:o:thumb
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on February 28th, 2003 at 10:00 PM |
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Xenon Bulbs - white & Blue
[size=4]I can't see ANY difference in the NEW Blue & White Xenon bulbs Now.... and after just reading ALL the replies, those using the
100/90 watt bulbs or 130/90w bulbs are using Everything to excess IMHO ... I'm sure if You change to th Xenon plus 50 , You will have the same
brightness, and Your poor old alternator will thank You..... [/size] :o:thumb:bounce:bounce
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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70AutoStik
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| posted on March 1st, 2003 at 02:07 AM |
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Now I'm going to be pedantic:
Xenon and Krypton are halogens (inert gasses) Iodine is not.
(I knew my undergraduate studies in Applied Physics would come in handy for something.)
Power is the product of potential (voltage) and current - any bulb of the same wattage draws the same current.
The original headlamps in a VW are so tough (good old German engineering - they could teach the Japanese a thing or two) that my car has bulbs of
twice the power (wattage) of the originals and they're going strong. It came that way and I haven't got around to upgrading the wiring,
'though it would be a good idea.
P.S. Has anyone come up with a good idea of where to mount some driving lights on a stockish Beetle? Or should I get a pair of Lazers (sic) and
mount them on the roo-bar?
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bus914
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| posted on March 1st, 2003 at 03:06 PM |
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stock headlights are 40/45W, and yeah i'm aware of the benefits of halogen.
....but reading the other posts, seems the problems are mine alone. so i'd better check voltage at the front, the other factor possibly
increasing current draw. :puke
[Edited on 1-3-2003 by bus914]
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eric
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| posted on March 1st, 2003 at 07:58 PM |
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I'd read(in Open Road I think) that Xenon headlights require the installation of Primer capacitors(kinda like those used in flouro lamps), I
think there might be Xenon bulbs with built in capacitors now though because otherwise those bulbs you installed wouldn't have worked, Xenon
lights normally take about 11kv to light them up.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on March 1st, 2003 at 08:39 PM |
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I think I will change to the newer bulbs after reading what we have here.
I only used 130/90 on the old EH because 10 years ago it was the only way to get brightness without putting spotties on.
Using 6mm (6mm is the squared area of cross section of wire not diameter) wire and twin relays was how I wired it up.
Yes it definiteley would have worked the alternator.
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70AutoStik
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| posted on March 4th, 2003 at 12:09 AM |
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Eric - your info came out of left field; halogen bulbs as used for headlights are still incandecsent: the halogen (be it Xenon, Krypton, Argon, Neon,
or the other one) is used to enable a higher filament temperature and, in modern bulbs, produces a secondary emmision. They do not require any start
circuit, but the headlamp must be capable of handling the extra heat.
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56astro
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| posted on March 4th, 2003 at 09:12 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by eric
I'd read(in Open Road I think) that Xenon headlights require the installation of Primer capacitors(kinda like those used in flouro lamps), I
think there might be Xenon bulbs with built in capacitors now though because otherwise those bulbs you installed wouldn't have worked, Xenon
lights normally take about 11kv to light them up.
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Xenon Gas Discharge lights require the "capacitors" you speak of. But they are a very expensive light. They don't use a filament,
instead there is an electrical discharge between 2 electodes - no filament to blow, very long life, low wattage.
As distinct from the +30% and +50% bulbs mentioned.
[Edited on 3-3-2003 by 56astro]
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Robo
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| posted on March 5th, 2003 at 05:48 AM |
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OK so everybodys talking about how good these Xenon bulbs are, I want some! where can I get some to fit the Kombi I have looked around the auto shops
no luck, next stop Repco, any where else?
Thanks
Rob.....
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Member of DMLRK.....Die Mittler Lebuns Resto Komeradschaft
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Andy
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| posted on March 5th, 2003 at 12:06 PM |
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Try Ashdowns. I know they sell Xenon spotties.
Always been to scared to ask a price.
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70AutoStik
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| posted on March 6th, 2003 at 12:10 AM |
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Repco are usually pretty useless these days (sadly, they use to be the greatest - 20-30 years ago.) Try Coventry's, Marlowe's, Auto-One, or
Opposite Lock - it's a pretty standard bulb. Take one in and have them physically match it - it may not show on their charts, but standard VW
Lights are quite up to handling the heat (The silvering may peel off some imitations.)
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wrecker67
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| posted on March 6th, 2003 at 09:49 PM |
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hi there guys,if you want to know about lights and what not ,y not talk to paul,he is the president of club vw sydney and runs a auto electrician shop
in riverstone.
ring him on 02 9627 1874,he will tell you all whats best.......
cheers:beer:beer |
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