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posted on March 14th, 2003 at 10:13 PM
my regulator too ... maybe?
had probs a while back about batteries going flat. (I have a 1600 kombi). Then the dash light went out at the right times (was on with ignition, off
when driving, etc..).
Just noticed tonight that while driving with the lights on, the dash light (for battery) glows very slightly when the lights are on, and flashes a bit
brighter when I used the indicators.
Is it the regulator?
thanks in advance, Ian
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kombikim
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posted on March 14th, 2003 at 10:29 PM
not sure about your model but as blue74L would say-- have you checked al your earthing??
Listy
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posted on March 14th, 2003 at 10:45 PM
being a mechanical dumbo...can you please tell me how, and where to start?
cheers, ian
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PatB
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posted on March 14th, 2003 at 11:33 PM
Listy,
Not sure about VWs but from my bike experience (70s and 80s Suzukis have a reputation for crap rectifier regulator units) the first thing I'd do
in your position would be to perform a rising volt test to see exactly what's happening at the battery. To ensure that I don't get sued I
must point out that I do not necessarily recommend this course of action but I merely detail what I would do in your position. If in doubt, consult a
professional blah blah, not my fault if it all goes wrong etc, etc, own risk yada yada, your mileage may vary....
Anyhow, where was I before I started the backside covering exercise? Oh yeah, rising volts.
I'd get hold of a multimeter. Doesn't have to be a fancy one, just something capable of measuring 15 volts or more. I usually use an
analogue unit (one with a needle) as it tends to be easier to read small, rapid changes than with a digital.
I'd select my 0-20V range (like I said, 15V would be the minimum I'd want to be able to read. Any less and we might have a tasty multimeter
barbeque. Remember, if things start smoking at any time, all is not as Mr Bosch intended) and connect the meter across the battery terminals, red clip
to +ve, black to -ve. Ideally I'd want sufficiently long leads so that I could have the meter where I could see it from the driving seat. If
necessary I'd use a couple of lengths of wire to extend them. Voltmeters don't draw much current (ideally none at all but in practice
they're a compromise) so these don't need to be starter cable thickness, just whatever's handy.
I'd note the voltage reading with the engine off. Most 12V vehicle batteries give about 13-13.5V in good health. Anything much less and I'd
check electrolyte level and give it a good overnight trickle charge before proceeding. If the voltage still doesn't come up I'd start to
suspect a dud battery. However modern batteries are pretty robust (I've not seen one die for about 20 years unless really geriatric or abused) so
don't lose sleep over that one yet.
OK so I've got my meter hooked up and showing 13+V. Now I'd start the engine and let it idle. I'd probably have warmed it to operating
temp before the test as many electrical component faults seem to be temp related and manifest more frequently in a hot engine bay. I'd expect the
V reading to drop radically when the starter operates but to return to at least the engine off reading once the key is released.
Now we get to the bit that may be different on a VW as they tend to idle high compared to the bikes I've run so this may not be valid.
'd note the voltage reading with the engine at idle. It should be at least static battery voltage, as read with the engine off. If it's less
there's a problem, if it's the same I'd proceed to the next stage, if it's greater there's at least some charge going to the
battery even at idle but I'd still follow the next steps. Then I'd slowly increase the revs whilst watching the meter. My expectation on a
healthy system would be to see the meter reading jump up by at least 1V as the revs come up. I'd expect the charging voltage to be as high as
it's going to get by about 2000 rpm so I wouldn't rod the crankcase screaming the potatoes off it trying to get a kick from the needle.
Then I'd return to idle and try the same test with the headlamps on, noting voltages at each stage.
Regardless of whether the system has an alternator or a dynamo, for the battery to charge as it should I'd want to be seeing at least 1V greater
than the engine off battery voltage at anything much above idle, even with the lights on. Having said that, some dynamo systems don't have a lot
of reserves so if you load things up with driving lamps, heated screens etc you can run into lack of charge situations even if the system's as
good as it came from the factory. Sorry but you'll just have to ditch those 500W paint strippers and that gut pounding amp .
If there's charge with all accessories off but none, or less, with some electrical loads on the system I'd suspect the alternator/dynamo
itself and probably get it checked out professionally. A rough check can be made by checking the voltage across the terminals. The meter has to be
able to measure 100V or so to try this one as, depending on the system, it's possible to see 70-80V here. If there's more than 14-15V there,
it's likely to be OK. If there's no charge at any time I'd suspect the regulator. Mechanical units don't go out of
adjustment much. I'd try raising the revs whilst feeling the regulator case (DON"T GET CAUGHT IN THE FANBELT). If it clicks from time to
time it's probably OK but a professional auto electrician should be able to check it properly and adjust if necessary. Solid state units tend to
either work or not with no middle ground. I was surprised when I found out how cheap they are so I'd probably try a substitution. Hint,
regulators get hot so they should make good thermal contact with whatever metal they're attached to so they can shed all that surplus energy.
That means all screws present and tight and, ideally, some heat sink paste (try electronics supply shops) between the unit and its mount. I've
cooked more than a couple by neglecting this one .
Anyway, there you have it. Charging trouleshooting made easy part 1. Sorry about the length of the post. Hope I haven't put too many of you to
sleep. Best of luck and work logically and you should be able to narrow it down.
Listy
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posted on March 14th, 2003 at 11:57 PM
thankyou for taking the time with that Pat. Much appreciated. Gonna lend the neighbour's multi metre tomorrow and will get stuck in. Cheers and
thanks again, Ian
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