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 seagull
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| posted on November 15th, 2005 at 01:17 AM |
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Some feed back on the low cost VSS set up , we talked about !
I could not find the old post on the low cost VSS unit we had some posts about .So I thought I would tell you all the unit from J Car worked very well
.
Photo showing unit bolted on to my C V , with the star puck I made to drive an earth 4 times the wheel turned .
seagull
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seagull
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| posted on November 15th, 2005 at 01:20 AM |
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2
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nbturbo
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| posted on November 15th, 2005 at 11:45 AM |
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Good move there Neil-simple enough to fit up.Spotted the grease nipple as well.
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56astro
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| posted on November 15th, 2005 at 11:48 AM |
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Ahh yeah, the grease nipple.
Such a simple but effective mod.
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa |
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nbturbo
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| posted on November 15th, 2005 at 09:18 PM |
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Neil are you using this for a cruise control?
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seagull
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| posted on November 16th, 2005 at 03:01 AM |
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No , this is for the Subaru ecu , it would only to to 80ks then shut the motor down , fuel pump I think ?
You could use it for the cruise control > GUYS ??
I made my cruise set up with heigh powered magnets . I machined a boss for the cv then inserted them in to that .
:beer
seagull
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56astro
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| posted on November 16th, 2005 at 07:00 AM |
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It'd probably do the trick for an electronic speedo as well.
I have an electronic VDO speedo running off the VW cable, but true to VW-form, the blood thing shakes like .................
a VW speedo.
I was thinking that I could shorten the VW cable to near where it comes out of the stub axle assembly and relocate the VDO sensor to down there.
The alternative would be something like what Neil's done here. At the moment I couldn't run a cruise control off the speedo because the signal
fluctuates too much.
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35MPG on 101.3kPa
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MikeM
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| posted on November 16th, 2005 at 08:47 AM |
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So are you still using this one from jaycar?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZD1900
or another one?
Here is the original thread.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewthread.php?tid=18813
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nbturbo
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| posted on November 16th, 2005 at 09:36 AM |
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Can't you just delete it from the ECU so that it's not looking for the signal.This can be done with the Delco stuff-if you don't scrub it- it goes
into to limp mode-so just get rid of it alltogether.
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gull
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| posted on November 16th, 2005 at 11:48 AM |
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Mike its the first one mate on your list ,
NB , no it needs the speed pick up
cheers seagull
at work as gull !
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Jenny
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| posted on December 8th, 2005 at 12:33 PM |
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Hey Neil,
I just noticed this site uses a similar set-up to the one you have http://www.rjes.com/html/vss.htm
They also talk about the problems you may have running a motor without a VSS
The link to the original post is here http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=18813
The Jaycar item is a replacement for the HKZ-101 made by Siemens. I found a data sheet for one here http://www.cy-sensors.com/Hall-HME-GTS.htm
The part number is CYHME301. It indictes the sensor has an NPN open collector output, which is what you need to simulate the grounding of the ECU
pin.
You could probably also use one of those gear tooth sensors and mount it so that it triggers off those 6 allen key cap head screw on the CV joint.
[ Edited on 9-12-2005 by Jenny ]
[ Edited on 11-1-2006 by Jenny ]
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71EJVan
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| posted on May 25th, 2006 at 11:54 AM |
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Neil,
How did this design go? Are you still using it?
Brendan
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1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
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gull
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| posted on May 25th, 2006 at 06:16 PM |
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yes mate it worked very well
I need to get some plates lazer cut as machining them did my head it !
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71EJVan
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| posted on May 26th, 2006 at 08:31 AM |
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Neil,
I went down to Jaycar yesterday and picked up a couple of the ZD1900 the same as yours to play with (cheap at $19.95 ea). I was thinking about instead
of using a flat chopper plate like you have, I would use a tube section (cut from 4.5 - 5 inch mandrel truck exhaust pipe with a flange welded on the
end. The other end would have the four notches cut out and the sensor would mount with the slot parallel to the shaft. This would allow some endfloat
on the shaft and the vanes would cut through the sensor on the arc that is already moulded into the gap. After manufacture the unit would be trued up
in a lathe and reduced a little as the wall thickness of the pipe is a little big. I was also going to mount this inboard on the starter side of the
gearbox to keek it away from the heat of the turbo and exhaust.
What do you think?
Regards
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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gull
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| posted on May 26th, 2006 at 10:35 AM |
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are your reading my mind
go for it
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71EJVan
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| posted on May 26th, 2006 at 12:09 PM |
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Here is the design of what I was thinking of.
Any thoughts of possible flaws?
Brendan
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A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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MikeM
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| posted on May 26th, 2006 at 03:57 PM |
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Cool, I'm looking forward to seeing how that works out 71EJVan!
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 barls
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| posted on May 26th, 2006 at 05:15 PM |
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let me know how this goes as i might go down this path as it may be easier than recalibrating the speedo
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71EJVan
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| posted on May 27th, 2006 at 08:56 PM |
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I just realised that the 5" tube needs to be true before welding the flange and then re-trued and thinned after complete. 2 visits to the machinist
for something that may not work!
I'm going to look around for a tin of the right size, cut it, mount it to a shaft connected to a drill and try this out first before the effort of
the machining work.
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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