| [ Total Views: 1964 | Total Replies: 19 | Thread Id: 47177 ] |
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 72RSbug
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| posted on December 21st, 2005 at 06:03 PM |
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pulling the EJ today :(
after almost 2 weeks of searching what the problem is (no spark and no fuel to the cylinders) I'm putting the old type 1 engine back in today.
Won't be much fun going from 280HP to 34HP but it's either that or not driving it for several weeks until I get a replacement ECU for the EJ20TT
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71EJVan
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| posted on December 21st, 2005 at 07:18 PM |
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That has got to be painfull!!
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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72RSbug
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| posted on December 21st, 2005 at 08:23 PM |
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engine is out, took only just over one hour, picking up my old type 1 this afternoon so it should be driveable again this evening.
thing with the the EJ is that some wiring got to close to the secondary turbo and had melted together. I replaced them and checked all of them but
still nothing. Opened up the ECU and no visible signs of it being broken but 99% sure it is. Also, fuel pump works (had to overwrite the realy though)
and no fuel in the cylinders.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 02:17 PM |
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are you going aftermarket?
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boof2332
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| posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 10:24 PM |
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Whats up with the ecu???????????
I have one I have no intention of using. Sorry for the lack of info on the vacuum lines...is this still a problem?
I am getting rid of the 2x turbos and running a single...more power, cheaper, smoother.
Let me know if I can help, I have acess to the camera now.
Matt
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boof2332
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| posted on December 22nd, 2005 at 10:27 PM |
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Go aftermarket with one turbo...have spoken to heaps of people here and there is only one or two computers that run the ej20tt and they cost heaps and
dont fix the lag between small to big. Thats why suby have gone back to 1, although they have had to stop production here as they do not meet
emisions.
Matt
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subybug
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| posted on December 23rd, 2005 at 09:46 PM |
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Why not go for a MEGASQUIRT system, its real good even better than a DTA and for a fraction of the costs of a DTA or aftermarket ECU.
The only thing is that you have to build it up yourself
Just take a look at http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html |
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pete wood
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| posted on December 25th, 2005 at 04:16 PM |
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I like the idea of a megasquirt, what scares me is all the 'lectroniks stuff'. I can change fuses and run wires but lots of 'lectroniks'
intimidate me more than a bit. At least with a well known brand you can get user support easily enough.
are you using one Subybug?
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subybug
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| posted on December 25th, 2005 at 05:02 PM |
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Nope im not using one, planned it for the end of next year. Still have to sort out some things about turbo's and superchargers.
The advantage of a MS is that you can get rid of all the vacuum lines that subaru is using on there (twin) turbo engines. And how about
a twin injector setup, mapped ignition timing and even control the FI from behind the steering wheel.
And all what you get is MORE POWER and thats what we are looking for is it not?
[ Edited on 25-12-2005 by subybug ] |
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72RSbug
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| posted on February 14th, 2006 at 04:29 AM |
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We're finally making some progress here. Pro street IRS gearbox with the correct ratio's arrived today and I have an adres in Japan and one in
Adelaide for a stock ECU.
In Adelaide they charge 375 AU Dollar + shipping (no price frome Japan yet), does this sound reasonable? Not that I have much choice to shop around
and want to get suby lump back in the bug and go drag racing this summer 
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subaruboxer
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| posted on February 14th, 2006 at 05:44 AM |
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Hi Tom,
do you have wiring diagram for the EJ 20 TT, a friend of mine is doing a conversion just like you did. He bought the engine in the US like you, he
can´t find a diagram!
Can´t you get an ECU in the US, where you bought the engine?
Good luck for you! Hope you get it fixed for the summertime.
Jörg
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GeorgeL
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| posted on February 14th, 2006 at 07:51 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
I like the idea of a megasquirt, what scares me is all the 'lectroniks stuff'. I can change fuses and run wires but lots of 'lectroniks'
intimidate me more than a bit. At least with a well known brand you can get user support easily enough.
are you using one Subybug?
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MS is also available assembled, but the new unit that controls ignition is still in beta test.
I've been looking at the SDS unit:
http://sdsefi.com/
as an alternative to hacking the Subaru wiring harness. The initial price is a bit daunting ($1300US), but you get a tested, built, and proven system
that is easy to program. If you look at the site you will find full manuals and sample fuel and spark maps for Subaru engines, including turbo
engines. They even fly one of their systems on a Subaru-powered airplane, which to me indicates a certain level of confidence in their product!
I like the no-nonsense nature of their product. For example, you don't need a laptop computer to program it, just a little handheld unit that comes
with it. You can tweak the system easily via a "rich/lean" knob control to zero in on the correct mixture. The system will log values from an
oxygen sensor, but the sensor isn't required for regular operation unless you want to run in closed loop mode.
Check out the site. Lots of info there, even if you don't use their system!
George
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72RSbug
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| posted on February 14th, 2006 at 10:50 PM |
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@ Subaruboxer, I think your friend emailed me about it but I accidentally deleted it.
There is a big difference between ECU's, most have 4 connectors (mostly autmatics) and some have 3 (like mine).
Here is the ECU pinout for a 3-connector type ECU (found it on the UK Legacy forum)
It's all I have for my engine but proved helpfull.
[ Edited on 14-2-2006 by 72RSbug ]
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72RSbug
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| posted on February 14th, 2006 at 10:57 PM |
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My attachment doesn't seem to work.
Subaruboxer, check your U2U.
The Adelaide based company doesn't have the type of ECU I need unfortunately.
Got a price quote from Japan, they ask almost 1000 AU Dollar for a stock ECU which looks very expensive to me.
I'll be looking into those megascuirt ECU's first and maybe go single turbo (if I can get away with it without having to replace intake and outlet
manifolds) to reduce cost.
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GeorgeL
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| posted on February 15th, 2006 at 05:12 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 72RSbug
My attachment doesn't seem to work.
Subaruboxer, check your U2U.
The Adelaide based company doesn't have the type of ECU I need unfortunately.
Got a price quote from Japan, they ask almost 1000 AU Dollar for a stock ECU which looks very expensive to me.
I'll be looking into those megascuirt ECU's first and maybe go single turbo (if I can get away with it without having to replace intake and outlet
manifolds) to reduce cost.
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Dang, at $1000 the aftermarket ECUs start to look very reasonable, since they can be moved from engine to engine if you decide to make changes. You
also get a lot more simplicity, since you don't have to build a VSS, fiddle with a wiring harness without good information, etc.
Sometimes I think that fiddling with the stock ECU is counterproductive. The manufacturers are making it more and more difficult to adapt these parts
so at some point it is best to go to something made for the task at hand.
George
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subybug
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| posted on February 15th, 2006 at 05:49 AM |
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This might also be a option, the DTA system
http://www.dtafast.co.uk/ |
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boof2332
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| posted on February 15th, 2006 at 06:19 AM |
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My harness is complete with ecu. Was taken out of half cut and placed in the 914, with everything matching up. I can have a look at removing the ecu
and its relevant wiring...labelled. How do I tell if the ecu is the one you want?? If it is compatible, you can have it cheap cheap.
Matt
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72RSbug
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| posted on February 16th, 2006 at 04:58 AM |
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If you can let me know the exact numbers that are written on the ecu I can find out if it will work boof.$
If it works, that would be fantastic, let me know please.
this is what is written on mine for example:
4g
22611 AC562
A18-000 DR5 7903
and here is a list of differnt types of ecu's, all comming from EJ20 TT engines:
T5 22611-AB391
R6 22611-AB383
8C 22611-AB392
8C 22611-AB393 - Gt BG5 1995 AT
8C 22611-AB394
7C 22611-AB384
7C 22611-AB385 - GT BG5A 1994 5MT
7C 22611-AB386
4G 22611-AC560 - BG5 manual year 8 ( 1996 i think)
4G 22611-AC561
4G 22611-AC562 - GTB BG5B 8/1996 5MT
5G 22611-AC581 - GT BG5B MY97 MT
6G 22611-AC610 - Ts-R BG5 1996 M/T
87 22611-AE370
9H 22644-AA031
9H 22644-AA032 - GTB BG5 1997 A/T
9H 22644-AA033
13 22644-AA580
[ Edited on 15-2-2006 by 72RSbug ]
[ Edited on 15-2-2006 by 72RSbug ]
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72RSbug
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| posted on April 7th, 2006 at 12:37 AM |
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finally found someone who could check my ECU and turns out nothing is wrong with the ECU itself. The problem will propably be somewhere in the wiring,
or a broken injector or either the cam sensor or the crankshaft sensor.
[ Edited on 6-4-2006 by 72RSbug ]
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ricola
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| posted on April 7th, 2006 at 04:29 AM |
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I think you mean crankshSHAFT sensor..
Rich
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