| [ Total Views: 3320 | Total Replies: 36 | Thread Id: 48141 ] |
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 baybuscamperkid
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
prince of insufficient light, ruler of heck
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| posted on February 1st, 2006 at 09:39 AM |
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one thing i would suggest, it is possible that those elbows at the front of the rad piping will not last long. because the kombi has a rather long
overhang, i found with my bullbar (admittedly heavier duty then yours and with a spare wheel attached) the bottom of my bullbar, exactly where your
hoses cross the bottom of yours, would regular,y hit the ground on angled driveways.
Reimagined/Recycled/Upcycled Cool
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vwtyp2
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on February 1st, 2006 at 07:31 PM |
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all that weight on the front doesn't do the steering box any favours either, so I found out in my '73 camper.
Most people seem normal, till you get to know them.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on February 2nd, 2006 at 04:24 PM |
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Kevo,
Looks like you're having a lot of fun. Good on ya, that's what hot rodding dubs is all about. 
Just a few thoughts,
if I were you, I'd replace the copper tubing with steel or stainless steel. A good mate of mine who's done quite a number of v6/v8 conversions into
Kombis says that's the best stuff to use. Copper oxidises and makes a real mess inside the lines.
I'd also get the tube bent properly instead of just putting rubber bends in. The way to do it is to take the car down the to the local exhaust shop
and get him to bend up the tubes in one length. The steel is cheap and he'll have a hoist too.
And i agree with baybuscamperkid, those pipes around the bumper won't last long, they'll scrape, rupture and you'll have a real mess on your
hands.
Good luck with it. :thumb
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clinkerfield
Learner Dubber
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 posted on February 21st, 2006 at 10:12 PM |
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Rover V8 into Kombi
Hi Kevo,
just new to this group. I have a 77 Kombi with 3.5 rover as well. We did the conversion about 5 years ago. You can run the lower pulley inboard of the
harmonic balancer, make a new alternator bracket to go to top right of engine near battery and machine off water pump and run a davies craig electric
water pump. This way you can keep the standard rear door and noone will know. Good to see you used rover engine mounts, nice and easy. I bought my
adapter plate through John Sherman on the Gold Coast here in Qld, nice and light as well. Commodore radiator and run the pipes behin the top of the
bumper through the subframe so they can't be seen as well. Just some thoughts, I have pictures if you are interested in any more.
Cheers
Dave |
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kevo
A.k.a.: kevo Milner
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| posted on March 10th, 2006 at 04:07 PM |
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yer dude, chuck your fotos up i'd love to have a look, cheers mate
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
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Joel
Scirocco Rare
Now containing 100% E-Wang
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| posted on March 10th, 2006 at 05:16 PM |
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ill second Pete Wood in saying that copper pipework is no good for cooling systems
my rotabug had copper and there were some lovely little build ups blocking the pipework after a few years of use
Joel
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GeorgeL
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on March 11th, 2006 at 04:45 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by DUB74L
ill second Pete Wood in saying that copper pipework is no good for cooling systems
my rotabug had copper and there were some lovely little build ups blocking the pipework after a few years of use
Joel
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I wonder if it might have something to do with electrolysis, with the tubes grounded to the body creating a current loop with the aluminum engine?
If the tubes are electrically isolated they should not corrode at all. No return current path
There are a number of copper-plumbed Vanagons running around here and they don't seem to have this problem.
George
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