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Author: Subject:  IMFO v6 into kombi
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posted on June 4th, 2006 at 10:01 PM
IMFO v6 into kombi


I'm putting a holden-vp into my 76 kombi van , imfo please! clutch mods ,wiring lome, will headers fit. Will post some pics soon.Building it this way for towing my drag bug around.
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posted on June 4th, 2006 at 10:12 PM



Honestly, all i can say is go for it. my dad's got one, the engine been looked after well, and even after being a daily driver since 91', the clock stopping and being screwed from going when it finally hit 400ks, (which was 5 yrs ago), following many interstate trips etc, its still going and running excellent.

Mind u, things have been replaced on it, but the engine has never needed to be split open, reconditioned etc. Great car. Keeps going. Interior is wat is falling apart, but other than that, still starts 1st time.

Go for it. Just make sure u use a good gearbox though rather than the stock commodore's, cause the torque in my experience wasn't very impressive when i had to tow my bug home. Had trouble just pulling the trailer itself. It did get it home, Just put alot of pressure/strain on the car.

[ Edited on 4/6/2006 by bajachris88 ]




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posted on June 4th, 2006 at 10:12 PM



:rolleyes: Great timing here. I'm about to do the same conversion to my singlecab.
Would like to do this right the first time.
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posted on June 4th, 2006 at 10:51 PM



You need to talk to Kimm at Indian, he's got the bits you need to do it. Clutch, adaptor plates etc., hes got a VS motor going in his limo-lo-light at the moment ... that's running a T3 autobox set up as he's not looking for off the mark grunt, but smooth power, or his Crew Cab 400+bhp with a blower, think thats a VT Calais - thats nothing less than a pet gorilla.

His limo is a different set up, as he's not ducting the air in from the side, but from the front and he's running air-con and airbags.

Talk to him about how not to blow up yer gearbox, and cooling set up. His CC was VP at some point, so will be able to set your straight on the headaches and $$$ needed.

I thought Luke Pell is running a Commodore V6 too isn't he?




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posted on June 5th, 2006 at 10:23 PM



a great conversion.
fun to drive.
get a good strong g'box built though, and make friends with someone at a tyre place.
here's a few happy snaps of mine when I had it.

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posted on June 12th, 2006 at 03:04 PM



hay mate

i have a modified wireing harness to suit a vp v6, i am selling it if you are interested. the computer and relays sit in the spare wheel well, the coils will have to be moved to the firewall for this harness and a rhino immobiliser is also wired in. I didnt cut any corners with this, all diagnostic conectors work as well as engine check light and thermos etc. i am putting a motec ecu in so all the original wireing is not needed.


I also agree with VWtyp2, get a strong box built, custom bugs and buses built my 091 gearbox and havent had a problem, also invest in a VERY GOOD clutch if you are towing,


Think about a custom fuel tank that sits under the rear seat, as the higher temps in the engine bay boil the fuel, then makes the ecu use more fuel and then runs in limp mode which causes more issues.

Standard headers will fit, i also may have a exaust system that should fit your car,
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posted on June 12th, 2006 at 10:11 PM



Quote:

Think about a custom fuel tank that sits under the rear seat, as the higher temps in the engine bay boil the fuel, then makes the ecu use more fuel and then runs in limp mode which causes more issues.



I have thought about this but don't know about the legal requirements.

Has anyone done something similar?
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posted on June 12th, 2006 at 10:39 PM



Quote:

Think about a custom fuel tank that sits under the rear seat, as the higher temps in the engine bay boil the fuel, then makes the ecu use more fuel and then runs in limp mode which causes more issues.



I have thought about this but don't know about the legal requirements.

Has anyone done something similar?
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posted on June 12th, 2006 at 11:13 PM



i think it has to be coverd (air tight from cabin) and that is it. but dont quote me, I have had to many probs, so i made one up to sit under the seat and then make a cover
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posted on June 13th, 2006 at 12:02 AM



any pictures of the tank or conversion?
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posted on June 13th, 2006 at 05:29 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by slowbus

Think about a custom fuel tank that sits under the rear seat, as the higher temps in the engine bay boil the fuel, then makes the ecu use more fuel and then runs in limp mode which causes more issues.


Hmmm, wouldn't it be better to ventalate the engine bay rather than relocating the fuel tank? If the bay is getting hot enough to heat 40 liters of gasoline to boiling then there are probably other problems coming from all that heat.

Looking at that engine sitting there, it would seem pretty easy to put a hole in the engine bay door and install a little fan on the water pump to exhaust the hot air!
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posted on June 13th, 2006 at 08:03 PM



tryed that, hole fans, etc,
behind a bus is a low pressure area, the air is dead, so it is pointless for holes, (found it out the long way)
also it doest take much for fuel to heat up and cause engine issues.
I hav been trying new things on my car for the last 4 years and have found out what works and doesnt, and moving the tank does
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posted on June 13th, 2006 at 10:13 PM
v6 motor update


Well i do agree (grate engine swap),I have been a little slack (drag racing,building a deck in shed) becouse of other jobs ,going to Sydney.I loved vwtyp2 bus (I tryed to buy it) so I work my radiator designed on his becouse he has had many klm's on the road.Mine use's copper core vp radiator with inlet and outlet made into 90' bends and pointing to the rear.Filler neck made longer so it sits just below floor(will make hatch for filling)and topup tank under rear seat. Slowbus will think about heat (fuel lines covered,tank cover plate with heat shield fittered,exshaust away from tank and water lines. Slowbus --will have Dangerous dave build me a fresh tranny with albin gears when cash up( no racing yet).Motor was in a LH torana befor mine ,hope this will make it a little easyer.Wiring last on job list.
1/ vwtyp2 -- what cluch did you have
2/ '' " " did you have any fuel issues
3/" " "did you use standard starter motor
4/ " " "did you have standard v6 engine mounts
Thanks guys!!!

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posted on June 13th, 2006 at 10:19 PM



never been involved in this conversion, but what's not to like?! Big torque, one of the most fuel efficient engines of all time, easy wiring of PCM, lots of aftermarket knowledge, engines are about $300 complete and last almost forever - 500,000km with just routine oil changes



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posted on June 13th, 2006 at 11:07 PM



You may also try fiberglass matting between the tank and the firewall, something i didnt try, some good stuff on the market.(try rocketind.com)
i also have a post selling some case stiffeners from rancho, if you are building a 091 box it may be a idea when the box is apart,
i have: custom made 5 puk clutch plate with 2600lb pressure plate
: surging when fuel is below 1/4 full around corners
:hi torque starter
:standed v6 mounts
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posted on June 13th, 2006 at 11:58 PM



Just a couple of little details you might be interested in. Kimm from Indian told me about them.

clutch: standard german disc but heavy duty pressure plate. he's also using a hydraulic setup. he reckons this is the best setup after 10 years with a hot V6 in a kombi.

gearbox: kimm has had lazer cut sheet steel plates made to go between the intermediate housing and the case. he uses them to stop the case getting flogged out with the diff pinion trying to push the shaft back through the front of the gearbox. I've got one in my buggy, he uses 5 laminated together in his blown twin cab. They're $20 bucks from memory and he reckons they are great insurance for the case. His blown twin cab goes through 5 of them a year with the 300 plus hp it has, not to mention bucket loads of torque.




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posted on July 16th, 2006 at 11:05 PM
v6 updates 16:7


Things have be happening to slow ( work,waiting on others ) The flywheel bolts have been a mojer issue, standard are to short, ARP don't make an after market bolt for v6's , had trouble buying high tensile bolts- 8.8,10.9 witch had to be 30ml long. I got button head bolts but strip out allan head befor tension ( 70nm ). Have all so fitted new rear main seal behide flywheel. Have now got normal headed bolts on order(10.9 tensile) . Clutch german sach with pressure plate mods- 1500pounds clamp .Next ,headers are on with little clearance on left side ,new gaskets.

[ Edited on 16-7-2006 by Dak-A-Tak ]

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posted on July 16th, 2006 at 11:10 PM
More Pic


clutch on .

[ Edited on 16-7-2006 by Dak-A-Tak ]

[ Edited on 16-7-2006 by Dak-A-Tak ]

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posted on July 17th, 2006 at 10:08 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Dak-A-Tak
I loved vwtyp2 bus (I tryed to buy it) so I work my radiator designed on his becouse he has had many klm's on the road.Mine use's copper core vp radiator with inlet and outlet made into 90' bends and pointing to the rear.Filler neck made longer so it sits just below floor(will make hatch for filling)and topup tank under rear seat.


Nice radiator installation. Do you have any more pictures?

I don't think that you need to put a hole in the floor for a filler. Just put a blank (non-pressure relief) cap on the radiator and run a header tank at the highest point in the system with the pressure cap.

George

[ Edited on Jul 17, 2006 by GeorgeL ]
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posted on July 17th, 2006 at 01:43 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by pete wood
gearbox: kimm has had lazer cut sheet steel plates made to go between the intermediate housing and the case. he uses them to stop the case getting flogged out with the diff pinion trying to push the shaft back through the front of the gearbox. I've got one in my buggy, he uses 5 laminated together in his blown twin cab. They're $20 bucks from memory and he reckons they are great insurance for the case. His blown twin cab goes through 5 of them a year with the 300 plus hp it has, not to mention bucket loads of torque.


Mine has the same, but only 1 plate. Within a few months of driving it had already dented the aluminium from that problem, so that's when the steel plate went it. Leon from Leon's motors did mine.

I use a sound and heat insulation from Autobarn in my Baja. It stops the heat from the radiator really really well. It's like a compressed mixture of cotton like material with aluminium foil bonded to one side. You buy special foil tape with it for sticking the edges down. I'm amazed how well it all actually works.




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posted on July 18th, 2006 at 01:29 AM



Dak-a-tak.

Nice set up with the scoops. How well did that cooling set-up work?

Cheers
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posted on April 10th, 2007 at 08:38 AM



Any updates?

Been thinking of doing this same conversion, mated up to my kombi auto.




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posted on April 10th, 2007 at 05:57 PM



Use a manual box ! ! !
Work out the ratios that you will need for highway speeds. Autos dont keep the RPM down enough for comfortable highway cruising.




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posted on April 15th, 2007 at 07:56 PM



i second what fozzee just said! do the math and you will agree

Concerning the pertol tank getting too hot, i pulled mine out when the engine was out last and insulated it with this heat guard stuff. It is the same stuff Drag racers use to insulate turbo exhaust and dump pipes, its really hard to penetrate heat though pretty much.
i have never had a problem with hot fuel or a higher than average fuel consumption.

keep the posts comin dude i like these kind of conversions




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posted on April 15th, 2007 at 08:52 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by pete wood
Just a couple of little details you might be interested in. Kimm from Indian told me about them.

clutch: standard german disc but heavy duty pressure plate. he's also using a hydraulic setup. he reckons this is the best setup after 10 years with a hot V6 in a kombi.

gearbox: kimm has had lazer cut sheet steel plates made to go between the intermediate housing and the case. he uses them to stop the case getting flogged out with the diff pinion trying to push the shaft back through the front of the gearbox. I've got one in my buggy, he uses 5 laminated together in his blown twin cab. They're $20 bucks from memory and he reckons they are great insurance for the case. His blown twin cab goes through 5 of them a year with the 300 plus hp it has, not to mention bucket loads of torque.


Wiki-Edit : Kimms Gorilla is putting out close to 400hp - he modded the blower. Given the stick he gives it, the fact his has only destroyed a couple of boxes in the last decade is testiment to the strength he builds into big-kombis. Love his bus, it's just ballistic, even a mild prod on the loud peddle is enough to freak most people out. Shame he's not been out to show with it for a while




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posted on April 15th, 2007 at 08:52 PM



Six months has past!!!!! Kick me!!!! Damn race cars and a friend convertible (140 hrs working on it) !!!
Finished steering on drag car ,so next few weeks I have to
get to work on my van! You mast have read my mind.

Have 16inch pull air fan to fit.
Make -double size engine lid
-fuel tank firewall is to close to throtle body(have removed it at moment)
-Engine rear mount to make
I will post pics soon ,will be painting the roof this week (polished satan black ) and fitting 17 Replica fuch by 7's soon !
Kombi has to be on road soon ,for towing racecar to Warwick vw drag meeting.
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posted on April 15th, 2007 at 10:08 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Dak-A-Tak
Make -double size engine lid


Check out my link 1UZFE bay to see a double sized engine lid.

I dont have a fire wall either. I need to fit one out though and heavily insulate it.




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posted on June 19th, 2007 at 06:44 PM



hey me and my bro are building a '72 camper with a vn v6. has 6-rib 2ltr box, rear side mounted radiator and heaps of other mods. can view pic gallery
(still under construction!) at:

http://www.geocities.com/gazman_4/kombiv6.html 




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posted on June 19th, 2007 at 09:50 PM



Thanks Guys for the posts , Have done little to my van ( roof in under coat ). I stoped working on her until Warwick is finished .Not enough time at moment (race cars )
Gazman ,I was thinking the same about sump cross member as well ( standed commodore so you can remove sump )
A friend is helping out with tow car for Warwick ( maybe F 250 ford )
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posted on June 21st, 2007 at 06:27 PM



yeah if you use the commodore k-frame for the xmember you can also bolt on the optional commodore skid plate.
(we will when we can find one!)




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