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Author: Subject:  heater setup for an EJ motor? tap installed and all good.
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posted on June 19th, 2006 at 08:59 PM



It is still f'n freezin' and crappy up front where there is not even any engine heat to warm a firewall. Fleur has to wear motorbike gloves to drive to work. :lol:



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posted on June 19th, 2006 at 10:27 PM



haven't you got a heater in ya bus Peter?

put a heater in and come and be a sook with me. we'll be warm and cosy and Mick can be a hero all on his own.:smirk:




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posted on June 20th, 2006 at 02:35 AM



You cound use a solenoid to avoid a cable. Central locking type unit maybe?



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posted on June 20th, 2006 at 08:30 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by pete wood
haven't you got a heater in ya bus Peter?

put a heater in and come and be a sook with me. we'll be warm and cosy and Mick can be a hero all on his own.:smirk:


Watch him Helbus...I've heard about people like him....:jesus
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posted on June 20th, 2006 at 09:07 AM



what have you heard?

BTW, Sinecure, good idea, I'll have to think about that one.




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posted on June 20th, 2006 at 09:54 AM



check your U2U



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posted on July 26th, 2006 at 06:19 PM
on the go....


Well, 6 hours of cold highway next week made me think hard and I have started on the heater again. As you can see, the electricals are done and the unit in place.

http://www.geocities.com/peterwood7310/buggyproject/heaterdash2.jpg

If you want to see more, click on this address...
http://www.geocities.com/peterwood7310/buggyproject/buggyproject14.html 
...and scroll down to the 26th of July.




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posted on July 28th, 2006 at 05:31 PM



Ok, everything is all hooked up, but I'm having dramas with the refilling. I've filled it up til it overflows and started it and run it up to operating temp twice now, but I'm having the same problem over and over.

When I turn it off, There's no pressure in the radiator. I can take the cap off when it's hot and there is no pressure at all. I have a secondary bleedpoint at the top of the upper heater hose. I know there is water there coz it came out, but the problem remains.

What to do next?
Any ideas?

p.s. 1 week to valla. :(

[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]




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posted on July 28th, 2006 at 05:43 PM



try pressure testing is. pump it up and listen real careful and look for leaks. Check the engine breather, its either coming out somewhere or you have a HUGE airlock.......



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posted on July 28th, 2006 at 09:42 PM



all sorted. just topped it and ran it up to temp then let it cool a few times. the motor drew in the extra water through the overflow bottle. :tu:

Heater wasn't working until I unkinked a hose but now it's great.

One toasty warm buggy coming right up!...to Valla!:bounce



[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]




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posted on July 28th, 2006 at 09:50 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by pete wood

Heater wasn't working until I unkinked a hose but now it's great.

One toasty warm buggy coming right up!...to Valla!:bounce



[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]


I still reckon you're a sook.....from the book of buggydom "Let there be frozen body parts":P:P:P:jesus




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posted on August 10th, 2006 at 04:14 PM



Just a quick note about driving the car with the heater now installed. The difference is stunning. If anything the heater works too well. It provides heat from about 50deg (water temp) and I only really need to use the lowest fan setting. I only have it turned on for 10-15 minutes with the side curtains zipped up otherwise the car becomes stuffy. It seems that just having the unit inside the car radiates enough heat to take the edge off the cold to begin with, then you just turn it on and off as you need it. I'd highly recommend one to anyone with a subie (or similar) in their buggy or kombi. Yes, helbus that means you. :yes:

The only real problem we had with it was in the rain on the way to Valla. The heat actually caused the car to fog up. But then buggies have that issues anyway, the heater just accentuated the problem. I'm hoping the air con might fix that when it goes in. ;)

And Mick, I might be a sook, but at least I'm sook that can feel his fingers and ears again.:tu:

I'll post some final pics of my pipe installation a bit later on.




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posted on November 11th, 2006 at 07:50 AM



well the whole setup is now finalised. after looking around for three way taps and doing some thinking, I made the decision that this setup (posted earlier) was going to be the winner.

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posted on November 11th, 2006 at 08:00 AM



So off I went to my local enzed shop and picked up the fittings in question. The cross over pipe (above left black thick line from red to blue lines) is inline just after the motor.

http://www.geocities.com/peterwood7311/buggyproject/crossoverpipeth.jpg

The heater tap is then straight after the cross over on the hot side of the two pipes. It resides in the engine bay.

http://www.geocities.com/peterwood7311/buggyproject/tapth.jpg

There are a few reasons I decided to go with this switching setup and the location. First up, I chose this sort of tap because you can get them anywhere, where as going with a specific car heater tap means they will go out of production at some stage. The WB holden tap a few people suggested is already NOS stock, so it didn't seem like a very good idea to me.
Secondly, I chose to put the tap in the engine bay coz it's easier to contain and I already had a neat mounting point for it. It's really a summer winter switch now, but that's ok, coz I can reach under the guard and switch it on very easily. Also, being an industrial unit, I'm confident I can cover it in mud and it will still work fine, more than I can say for a lot of plastic car components.




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posted on November 11th, 2006 at 12:53 PM



Hi

That looks interesting, I will crossing this path soon. I will be sending my heated air down my heater channels, this is a good idea on Beetle & type 3s as it will prevent moisture building up in the heater channels and causing rust.

I just bought a condenser and evaporater for my air con setup for $180, so with air con lines etc I expect to pay about another 500 or so, so Im a sook as well, albeit a cool one.

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posted on November 12th, 2006 at 04:24 AM



I ducted hot air down the heater channels in the ghia and it didn't work that well, I used a type 2 blower motor/fan.
Blowing hot air down the channels will make it worse from a corrosion point of view, it is the temperature cycling which causes condensation to collect and rust them from the inside out..
I'll be fitting a matrix up front this time and hooking it up to the intake of the standard 1303 blower motor..
Rich

Quote:
Originally posted by 1303Steve
Hi

That looks interesting, I will crossing this path soon. I will be sending my heated air down my heater channels, this is a good idea on Beetle & type 3s as it will prevent moisture building up in the heater channels and causing rust.

I just bought a condenser and evaporater for my air con setup for $180, so with air con lines etc I expect to pay about another 500 or so, so Im a sook as well, albeit a cool one.

Steve




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posted on November 12th, 2006 at 10:25 AM



Hi Rich

Im not sure about that. On my yellow 1302 I religiously used my heaters whenever it was wet or after washing the car to dry the heater channels out and my 1302 was rust free apart from a small amount around the rear window and behind one rear mudguard where the beading fits.

Steve
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