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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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Mad fabricator, paint and body
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posted on June 19th, 2006 at 08:59 PM |
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It is still f'n freezin' and crappy up front where there is not even any engine heat to warm a firewall. Fleur has to wear motorbike gloves to drive
to work.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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posted on June 19th, 2006 at 10:27 PM |
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haven't you got a heater in ya bus Peter?
put a heater in and come and be a sook with me. we'll be warm and cosy and Mick can be a hero all on his own.
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sinecure
A.k.a.: Sin
Custom Title Time!
Want another... :(
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posted on June 20th, 2006 at 02:35 AM |
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You cound use a solenoid to avoid a cable. Central locking type unit maybe?
A POSSE AD ESSE.
I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.
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subimanx
Casual Dubber
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posted on June 20th, 2006 at 08:30 AM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
haven't you got a heater in ya bus Peter?
put a heater in and come and be a sook with me. we'll be warm and cosy and Mick can be a hero all on his own.
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Watch him Helbus...I've heard about people like him....:jesus
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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posted on June 20th, 2006 at 09:07 AM |
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what have you heard?
BTW, Sinecure, good idea, I'll have to think about that one.
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
Bishop of Volkswagenism
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posted on June 20th, 2006 at 09:54 AM |
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check your U2U
tssnq.com.au
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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posted on July 26th, 2006 at 06:19 PM |
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on the go....
Well, 6 hours of cold highway next week made me think hard and I have started on the heater again. As you can see, the electricals are done and the
unit in place.
If you want to see more, click on this address...
http://www.geocities.com/peterwood7310/buggyproject/buggyproject14.html
...and scroll down to the 26th of July.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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posted on July 28th, 2006 at 05:31 PM |
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Ok, everything is all hooked up, but I'm having dramas with the refilling. I've filled it up til it overflows and started it and run it up to
operating temp twice now, but I'm having the same problem over and over.
When I turn it off, There's no pressure in the radiator. I can take the cap off when it's hot and there is no pressure at all. I have a secondary
bleedpoint at the top of the upper heater hose. I know there is water there coz it came out, but the problem remains.
What to do next?
Any ideas?
p.s. 1 week to valla.
[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]
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koolkarmakombi
Veteran Volks Folk
enkarmarising
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posted on July 28th, 2006 at 05:43 PM |
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try pressure testing is. pump it up and listen real careful and look for leaks. Check the engine breather, its either coming out somewhere or you
have a HUGE airlock.......
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't
quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons,
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upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this
disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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posted on July 28th, 2006 at 09:42 PM |
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all sorted. just topped it and ran it up to temp then let it cool a few times. the motor drew in the extra water through the overflow bottle.
Heater wasn't working until I unkinked a hose but now it's great.
One toasty warm buggy coming right up!...to Valla!:bounce
[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
Bishop of Volkswagenism
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posted on July 28th, 2006 at 09:50 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
Heater wasn't working until I unkinked a hose but now it's great.
One toasty warm buggy coming right up!...to Valla!:bounce
[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]
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I still reckon you're a sook.....from the book of buggydom "Let there be frozen body parts":P:P:P:jesus
tssnq.com.au
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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posted on August 10th, 2006 at 04:14 PM |
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Just a quick note about driving the car with the heater now installed. The difference is stunning. If anything the heater works too well. It provides
heat from about 50deg (water temp) and I only really need to use the lowest fan setting. I only have it turned on for 10-15 minutes with the side
curtains zipped up otherwise the car becomes stuffy. It seems that just having the unit inside the car radiates enough heat to take the edge off the
cold to begin with, then you just turn it on and off as you need it. I'd highly recommend one to anyone with a subie (or similar) in their buggy or
kombi. Yes, helbus that means you.
The only real problem we had with it was in the rain on the way to Valla. The heat actually caused the car to fog up. But then buggies have that
issues anyway, the heater just accentuated the problem. I'm hoping the air con might fix that when it goes in.
And Mick, I might be a sook, but at least I'm sook that can feel his fingers and ears again.
I'll post some final pics of my pipe installation a bit later on.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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posted on November 11th, 2006 at 07:50 AM |
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well the whole setup is now finalised. after looking around for three way taps and doing some thinking, I made the decision that this setup (posted
earlier) was going to be the winner.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
23 Windows of Awesome
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posted on November 11th, 2006 at 08:00 AM |
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So off I went to my local enzed shop and picked up the fittings in question. The cross over pipe (above left black thick line from red to blue lines)
is inline just after the motor.
The heater tap is then straight after the cross over on the hot side of the two pipes. It resides in the engine bay.
There are a few reasons I decided to go with this switching setup and the location. First up, I chose this sort of tap because you can get them
anywhere, where as going with a specific car heater tap means they will go out of production at some stage. The WB holden tap a few people suggested
is already NOS stock, so it didn't seem like a very good idea to me.
Secondly, I chose to put the tap in the engine bay coz it's easier to contain and I already had a neat mounting point for it. It's really a summer
winter switch now, but that's ok, coz I can reach under the guard and switch it on very easily. Also, being an industrial unit, I'm confident I can
cover it in mud and it will still work fine, more than I can say for a lot of plastic car components.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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posted on November 11th, 2006 at 12:53 PM |
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Hi
That looks interesting, I will crossing this path soon. I will be sending my heated air down my heater channels, this is a good idea on Beetle & type
3s as it will prevent moisture building up in the heater channels and causing rust.
I just bought a condenser and evaporater for my air con setup for $180, so with air con lines etc I expect to pay about another 500 or so, so Im a
sook as well, albeit a cool one.
Steve
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ricola
Wolfsburg Wizard
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posted on November 12th, 2006 at 04:24 AM |
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I ducted hot air down the heater channels in the ghia and it didn't work that well, I used a type 2 blower motor/fan.
Blowing hot air down the channels will make it worse from a corrosion point of view, it is the temperature cycling which causes condensation to
collect and rust them from the inside out..
I'll be fitting a matrix up front this time and hooking it up to the intake of the standard 1303 blower motor..
Rich
Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
That looks interesting, I will crossing this path soon. I will be sending my heated air down my heater channels, this is a good idea on Beetle & type
3s as it will prevent moisture building up in the heater channels and causing rust.
I just bought a condenser and evaporater for my air con setup for $180, so with air con lines etc I expect to pay about another 500 or so, so Im a
sook as well, albeit a cool one.
Steve
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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posted on November 12th, 2006 at 10:25 AM |
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Hi Rich
Im not sure about that. On my yellow 1302 I religiously used my heaters whenever it was wet or after washing the car to dry the heater channels out
and my 1302 was rust free apart from a small amount around the rear window and behind one rear mudguard where the beading fits.
Steve
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