Subject: Radiator flush??? Badd coolant suspected, help needed.
Iwish4aSynchro
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posted on September 5th, 2006 at 10:09 PM
Radiator flush??? Badd coolant suspected, help needed.
Hey gang, going to flush the cooling system on two T3's, the brother in laws first and then myn just incase, yeh yeh. I know it may be in the tech
talk somewhere, but has anyone tried to find it? Need know how to and where to start from. Any help appreciated. Brother in law found some
calcification in one of the hosese after it split and gave him some stress levels.:jesus
[ Edited on 5-9-2006 by Iwish4aSynchro ]
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
Menangler
A.k.a.: Dave Becker
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posted on September 6th, 2006 at 08:01 AM
I flushed mine by dropping the hose of at the coolant tank and on the engine near number 1 cylinder and the thermo housing, and sticking the hose onto
the pipe off no 1 cyl and turn it on, open the heater valve, and let it run until clear water comes out, then do the same with the engine, and the
pipe on the coolant tank.
Then do them all up and put in genuine G11 VW coolant, I used 3 bottles. and top up with water, some people say use distilled water, I have always
used tap water and had no problems. then run the engine keeping an eye on the coolant level, and crack the bleeder on the radiator untill coolant runs
out.
Thats about it.
Remember don't run coolant down the gutter or the drains.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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posted on September 6th, 2006 at 11:13 AM
Ok on the coolant...
strange that many manufacturers are saying to use their labelled coolant and no others...
but You shouldn't dilute any coolant with water...
The Hot- cold coolants these days, apart from protecting the engine parts ..
adds a few degrees to the boiling point..
and naturally takes a few degrees off the Freezing point..
I found over the years with Mitsubishi cars that, even using good quality coolant...
I sometimes had some corrosion between the radiator hose and the alloy housing... not really bad corrosion..
but i still didn't like it..
I used to cover the alloy housing with rubber grease or petroleum jelly, before putting the hose back on...
whether that made any difference I don't remember...
An expert in the field of coolant etc told Me that the biggest problem - is getting ALL the air out of the system
and keeping it out...
He told Me many vehicles actually sucked in air under the hose clamps... this still seems a bit strange to Me..
but He also said that the only hose clamps that had tested air proof... were Tridon - made in Canada -
cheers
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
vw54
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posted on September 6th, 2006 at 03:31 PM
make sure you have the front of the T3 up a hill or even jacked up in the air slightly to allow the air to escape out top of the radiator
and also have the heater on as Dave said. You could undo each hose to housing coupling and apply some Vasso to the tube and clean of any corrosion
on the housing and re clamp them up
flush with water before you add the coolant to remove all the crud in the system
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posted on September 6th, 2006 at 08:57 PM
Cheers all, will probably print all this and re read on the day. I was a little confused as to how to do this on a dub and now i feel alot more
confident in tackling such a job. Phew:beer
I have done this operation on many a jap car but htis will be the first on my t3 and it all seemed a little daunting as the radiator is a sealed unti
except for the bleeder. On the jappers i used to drop the coolant out and then refill with tap water and add a little Sa8 my old man used to and still
does swear by it, put cap back on and run it for about 10-20minutes somewhere near boiling point and dump hot. never had aprobl;em doing this before.
Is it reccommended to do this to the kombi via way of adding Sa8 in bleeder, or should i not bother chancing it?
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
