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Author: Subject: DIY welding advice
Memberduncombemu
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cool.gif posted on May 15th, 2003 at 04:00 PM


PostModern. Great! You've made your mind up and that's good. Please if you want any advice, then you've only got to ask. But, then only listen to the ones who know what they're talking about, when it comes to 'welding advice'. You've done well!!!!!
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posted on May 15th, 2003 at 04:27 PM


Yeah well, good on you duncombemu. Now I can forget about the tool's specs and begin learning how to replace the sliding window channels on a splitty's doors, how to remanufacture the fixed window frames, etc....
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posted on May 15th, 2003 at 08:14 PM


Quote:

Some stuff we found on the web basically said, "it'll be fine for a year and then you'll toss it because it'll break down and you can't get parts" or somesuch. Hopefully I won't put a year's work on it in 5 years... Hmmm. It's tough to make a purchasing decision like that in the face of conflicting reports.



If this is what someone said about an SIP Migmate I am surprised. SIP are a MIG componenet manufacturer, so it would be in their interest to make parts available. I have looked at new ones, and they still use the same cheap handpiece. I still have mine after 13 years.
Did you know that if your handpiece wears out, and you need a new inner liner, you can get an adapter and fit a Kemmpi handpiece instead.
If you dont physically abuse your machine, it should last for at least 10 years.
Yes I agree a 180 amp CIG, Kemmpi, Esab, or a Fronius would be fantastic, but realistically they are upwards from $1000 to $2500. They are real tough units designed for everyday business work, driven hard to make profits.
You need facts, not hearsay from people who don't even own a MIG, or have only ever used one that was a dud due to poor maintenance.
A 150A will actually weld up to 6mm plate according to the specs.

Try the SIP Coppermate if you think the Migmate is a baby - It is 170amp with proper quality handpiece same as CIG. 10 year warranty on transformer. welds up to 10mm according to specs. It has 150 amps at 25% duty cycle.

Again you pay more.




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posted on May 16th, 2003 at 01:16 AM


http://www.westernwelding.com.au/experts/messages/1168.html 

I see now that the comment was posted by a retailer of the competition's product. Why are they so cheap then?

[Edited on 15-5-2003 by PostModern]
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posted on May 16th, 2003 at 01:36 AM


All you need to do is find a shop that sells welders and has a glass shop front. Order the best welder you can think of and when it gets there inspect it in the middle of the floor in the late afternoon, tell the guy your wrapped with it and will be back later to pick it up.
That night take a ute and back it through the glass doors and load it into the back of the ute and clear off with a clear concience because you told the truth and you did come back later and pick it up :D:D:D:D:D:D
problem solved, or hire one from kennards or the like, I got myself a stick welder from bunnings for $70 and it works great with fine sticks, but I usually use the mig I borrow from my uncle as its so easy. but the cheap stick is a good option if youre on a tight budget.:cool:
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posted on May 16th, 2003 at 01:49 AM


Thanks for the laugh Herbie. I haven't really smiled since my bus arrived (I knew it would have some rust... but it has RUST).... Given the amount of work it'll need, buying the SIP will prove a good investment over hiring. I reckon it'll pay for itself.
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posted on May 18th, 2003 at 05:01 PM


hey
we just bout a 175 amp lincon MIG havent used it yet but will see how she goes!
cheers
rhys




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posted on May 18th, 2003 at 05:01 PM


hey
we just bout a 175 amp lincoln MIG havent used it yet but will see how she goes!
cheers
rhys




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posted on May 18th, 2003 at 11:47 PM


Don't want to be argumentative, Postmodern, but you sure you just didn't misunderstand what a '59 would be like in any reasonable condition? Think about what you bought before spreading such stories.

(I have no idea of the condition of the vehicle and do not know the seller - but if you, an IT person, think you can handle the restoration, it must be in bloody good condition for it's age.)
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posted on May 19th, 2003 at 10:04 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by 70AutoStik
Don't want to be argumentative, Postmodern, but you sure you just didn't misunderstand what a '59 would be like in any reasonable condition? Think about what you bought before spreading such stories.

(I have no idea of the condition of the vehicle and do not know the seller - but if you, an IT person, think you can handle the restoration, it must be in bloody good condition for it's age.)


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/index.mv?photo+200304080729308860 

Condition is listed as "3": Which means:
"3 - Good - Presentable inside and out with some signs of wear. Not detailed but very clean. Body should be straight and solid with no apparent rust and absolutely no rust-through anywhere. Shiny, attractive paint but may have evidence of minor fading or checking or other imperfections. Runs and drives well. May need some minor mechanical or cosmetic work but is fully usable and enjoyable as is."

I say no more. I don't know that the misrepresentation was deliberate, but there's no way it is "drivable". david assured me the vehicle could be driven from Albury to Wollongong if I fitted the front windows and dealt with the steering lock. I was prepared for a restoration job, but NOT of the magnitude it requires. The pictures supplied must be 4 years old at best.

I assume the conversion was done in the 80's, so I assumed it was like a 20 year old car that'd been off the road for 10 years... I have a Benz sitting in my driveway that's been off the road a while. I'd rate it at a "3" and if I hadn't changed back to VW's would easily tackle the resto in it.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/postmodern/ocau/Mercfrnt.jpg 
http://members.optusnet.com.au/postmodern/ocau/Mercrrqt.jpg 
That, Sir, is a "3"

Anyway, you are right, this thread is not the place to deal with this.

[Edited on 19-5-2003 by PostModern]
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mad.gif posted on May 19th, 2003 at 10:20 AM


Whats being an IT person got to do with it ?

A recent poll here showed that a lot of members work in IT.

How would you like it if I said "Well if a religious person can do it then it must be in good condition for its year".

:mad:




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posted on May 19th, 2003 at 10:29 AM


Ah look, let's not start a war over this. I concede that I made a mistake in buying the vehicle site unseen. I trusted another to rate his vehicle fairly and leapt into the purchase without waiting for further pics (despite asking for them several times, they never came).... my fault for being trusting and having a non-restorer's definition of the word "drivable". Now when I get in contact with david, who is presently OS, I'm sure we'll work something out.

In the meantime, this thread is about welders...
I saw my neighbours CIG 170 Amp unit on the weekend. Very nice.
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posted on May 19th, 2003 at 05:26 PM


Hey PM - as an IT person you must agree, it's a bit ironic that your going to have to reinstall Windows :D:P:D



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posted on May 20th, 2003 at 11:18 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by fatboy
Hey PM - as an IT person you must agree, it's a bit ironic that your going to have to reinstall Windows :D:P:D

:)
Heh, yeah. Can't blame Bill Gates for this one tho.

To use another computer analogy, if I bought a 286 that wouldn't boot, I'd not bother fixing it. Things are a bit different in the vintage car world, but this thing is getting ready to lend its parts to keep other classics on the road. Next step is "splitty-ing" it up :\

Unless someone else wants to save it?
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posted on May 20th, 2003 at 08:10 PM


Code:


Duh. What's a 286?

Some fix cars and others fix PC's, but it seems we need each other. Yeah?




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posted on May 21st, 2003 at 01:13 PM


Yeah, I guess.

(A 286 was about the second or third series of "PC's" as we know them. 4-8Mhz or something).

Anyway, I've formulated a plan for this bus. It has a lot of "if"s in it.
If it runs AND if the brake system, suspension and tranny are not totally stuffed, I'm going to rat-look the body, using the money I save on paint in the interior. Rust etc will obviously need to be cut out and welded, so I'll go ahead with that and just leave it in primer... maybe clearcoated primer??? I might even weld in a new cargo floor if I can find one.... the "little bit of rust" I was promised came in abundance. I need to inspect the frame. If it's sound, and as I said the mechanicals are good, I'll go the hard route and custom-resto the old beast. If not, it's parts and crusher for her.
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posted on May 21st, 2003 at 06:33 PM


Have you thought about POR15 Hardnose topcoat it will brush on and (Hopefully) look good at a cost of about $400.

I intend to do this with my bay.

It would be a shame for this bus not to be back on the road.




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posted on May 22nd, 2003 at 12:23 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by fatboy
Have you thought about POR15 Hardnose topcoat it will brush on and (Hopefully) look good at a cost of about $400.

I intend to do this with my bay.

It would be a shame for this bus not to be back on the road.


I agree. It is a classic. If there is structural rust, I won't be donating my time to rescue it tho.

I also don't want to spend $20K restoring something to have it look ratty. I was planning on brush painting the interior with gloss black Kill Rust. The floor will need heaps of patching, but I'll get all the rust and just rubber mat and carpet over it. It won't be the smooth cruisin machine I had in mind, but it should turn out cool(ish) anyway.

Does anyone know if there are cargo floor cuts or aftermarket panels anywhere?

[Edited on 22-5-2003 by PostModern]
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posted on May 23rd, 2003 at 05:45 PM


try rob king aka splitbusaustralia for cargo floors or try harding european
cheers
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posted on May 25th, 2003 at 07:44 PM


I'll be starting a member's ride thread.
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posted on July 27th, 2003 at 08:25 AM


just a question
the triple cab is something someones made up i guess cutting down a full bus?
its just ive never seen one before
marcel
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