| [ Total Views: 1171 | Total Replies: 11 | Thread Id: 64977 ] |
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 72type3wrx
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on September 12th, 2007 at 01:36 PM |
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Front mount is mounted
hey guys I just finished mounting my water to air IC radiator in front of the front beam and ran heater hose all the way to the intercooler that is
sitting on top of my motor, im running a Davis Craig water pump rated at 13 litre a minute, should I run the pump anywhere or should it be just before
or after the cooler??
besides the problem of getting a leak in the hose and bleeding issues is there any problem doing this??
Do I need to run coolant?? I heard they run allot better with out coolant, my local radiator shop told me straight water will eat the core out really
quickly, is this true???
1972 Type 3 Fast back, RS Turbo 2ltr, VF34/P20,
3" Exhaust, WAIC, Wolf 3D, Sard 540cc's, Swirl pot and VL Fuel pump, Apexi CAI, Custom VW 4spd with straight cut albins 3.87 R&P, stock brakes
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VWCOOL
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| posted on September 12th, 2007 at 01:39 PM |
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why would it run better 'without coolant'?! what a crock...
you don't need a pump that big; Subies use far smaller than 13L/minute
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Girt
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| posted on September 12th, 2007 at 01:56 PM |
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i had a rs lib that i ran a 9l/min, then upgraded to 11L/min then a 35L/min. I did have a larger w2a front mount, but the 35l/min was the best for
keeping intake temps to a minimum. I didn't get any probs with heat soak due to collant floeing to quickly. Taking into account the extra distance of
your system to std, i think you should be ok.
Running the cooler with water is best for dissapating heat as coolant reduces the specific heat of water. Pure distilled water has the best specific
heat, however you will get corrosion issues. You can buy a product called water wetter that gives the best compromise between coolant and straight
water. I think nulon has a water wetter that ive heard works the best in water to air intercoolers. |
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72type3wrx
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| posted on September 12th, 2007 at 05:21 PM |
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thanks for the info, has anbody seen any info that sugests that the wetter water stuff is worth it, i mean if its only gona be 10% better then
coolant im not worried but if its 30% or more better i will invest in some.
how much did the 30 ltr/min pump cost>?
1972 Type 3 Fast back, RS Turbo 2ltr, VF34/P20,
3" Exhaust, WAIC, Wolf 3D, Sard 540cc's, Swirl pot and VL Fuel pump, Apexi CAI, Custom VW 4spd with straight cut albins 3.87 R&P, stock brakes
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GTMac
A.k.a.: Andrew
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| posted on September 12th, 2007 at 09:57 PM |
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Just keep it all as Suby made it and recommend. What service center would not put coolant in your i/c...........none I would guess. It does not have
to be a coolent, it can be just a corrosion inhibitor.
I have been using the standard pump mounted 50cm from the intake i/c in the engine bay and have had no probs in over 18mths. Also the standard suby
pumps from what I have heard hardly give up and when they do they are usually an easy and cheap rebuild kit.
1971 Type 3 Fasty - EJ20T
I love 242HP sleepers. 
How many sets of lights does it take a $229k Carrera S to learn? 
UPDATE: Cayman S, M3, B4 now added to the list. |
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on September 12th, 2007 at 11:28 PM |
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Hi
Regarding pump placemnt, its best to do a bench run with pump in diffreent locations. As for bleeding issures, I had heaps of problems with my water 2
air IC on my old 1302, I found they best solution was to put a garden hose fitting in the line and presureise the whole system until you get it
running by itself.
I ran straight water with not corrosion problems.
Steve
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VWCOOL
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| posted on September 13th, 2007 at 05:13 PM |
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I had an alloy-headed Ford V8 show significant corrosion (visible on ally; water went orange) in less than three months with tap water...
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Klaus
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| posted on September 14th, 2007 at 10:28 PM |
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I'm running the stock subi pump at the lowest point just inline with the lower secton on the front beam and have had no problems after 25000km's ,
also have the lines running in the cabin, and they are always cold to the touch considering the heater lines run ontop of them .
I'm using the same coolant the engine runs, both front cuts I bought had coolant in the cooler so I did the same.
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Adsman
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| posted on September 15th, 2007 at 12:46 AM |
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Generally ethelene glycol based coolants increase the heat transfer rate and provide better cooling. Nulon have one of the best products being a
concentrate approx 60% from memory. Can be bought for $35/5L. When using low strength coolants (under 25% strength) or water, electrolysis/corrosion
usually occurs. Also remember that coolant strengths over 65% can cause problems as well. Manufacturers recommend the use of purified filtered water
when changing coolant for a reason. They have millions of dollars in research to back this up too.
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
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GTMac
A.k.a.: Andrew
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| posted on September 15th, 2007 at 08:47 AM |
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This forum gives me nightmares. Had a dream last night I added corrosive inhibitor to both i/c and radiator and they both discintergrated before my
eyes................thanks guys. Yes I know most dream of sexy woman, thats what I dream about!
1971 Type 3 Fasty - EJ20T
I love 242HP sleepers.
How many sets of lights does it take a $229k Carrera S to learn?
UPDATE: Cayman S, M3, B4 now added to the list. |
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gazman
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| posted on September 15th, 2007 at 04:55 PM |
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Hey, it wouldn't be called COOLant if it didn't help cooling!
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Adsman
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| posted on September 15th, 2007 at 07:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by GTMac
This forum gives me nightmares. Had a dream last night I added corrosive inhibitor to both i/c and radiator and they both discintergrated before my
eyes................thanks guys. Yes I know most dream of sexy woman, thats what I dream about!
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Lets just hope it wasn't a wet dream 
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
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