| [ Total Views: 1153 | Total Replies: 16 | Thread Id: 69935 ] |
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 gellecan
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| posted on June 21st, 2008 at 04:27 PM |
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Karnamm Clock
Is there anyone out there who knows how to get the clock working or knows who can fix them mine is a 62 Karmann Ghia and got 2nd place for best
standard at 2008 nats and i would like my clock to be working 
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karmann54
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| posted on June 21st, 2008 at 08:05 PM |
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You need to be more worried if it DOES work, it doesn't conform to standard. They are notorious for not working. On an old ghia of mine many years
ago I got a watchmaker to install a new clock mechanism in, keeping the original hands and face. it just ran off a standard 9V battery.
That was 15+ years ago, but my current '63 ghia clock does not work either. I guess I'll do the same thing when I get it back on the road.
Angus
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gellecan
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| posted on June 21st, 2008 at 08:19 PM |
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how can i tell if it still works
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VW-VARIANT-L
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| posted on June 21st, 2008 at 09:07 PM |
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First step would be to connect it to power. If it is the original 62 clock it will be 6v ( have you converted your car to 12 V ??), it is easy to use
a standard 6V Dolphin torch battery or one of the small 9V rectangular batteries to the spade terminal and grounding the case. If it makes a single
"click" sound the internal solenoid is atleast working. These clocks are "mechanical" and the solenoid retensions the spring every 60-90 seconds.
To check the internals, remove the little bolts which hold the rear white plastic cover casing. One of the most common problems is a blown internal
fuse link, which can be resoldered. You can also test the mechanicals by manually activating the solenoid to see if it ticks ( will stop after 60-90
seconds ).
If it is the springs/ gears etc which are dirty or worn I would recommend having it rebuilt by a local watch repairer. I had an old motometer clock
done recently, only cost $60 for new bushes, oiling etc.  Pat.
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gellecan
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| posted on June 24th, 2008 at 07:39 PM |
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Done the 9volt battery trick did not get a tick from it 
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1500S
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| posted on June 24th, 2008 at 08:07 PM |
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Take the back off it and give the mechanism a spray with CRC. I have a Type 3 clock which wasn't working after residing in the workshop for many
years. A squirt of CRC and it hasn't missed a beat since puting it back in the car. Worth trying on yours.
DH
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ghiaguy
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| posted on June 25th, 2008 at 01:40 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VW-VARIANT-L
First step would be to connect it to power. If it is the original 62 clock it will be 6v ( have you converted your car to 12 V ??), it is easy to use
a standard 6V Dolphin torch battery or one of the small 9V rectangular batteries to the spade terminal and grounding the case. If it makes a single
"click" sound the internal solenoid is atleast working. These clocks are "mechanical" and the solenoid retensions the spring every 60-90 seconds.
To check the internals, remove the little bolts which hold the rear white plastic cover casing. One of the most common problems is a blown internal
fuse link, which can be resoldered. You can also test the mechanicals by manually activating the solenoid to see if it ticks ( will stop after 60-90
seconds ).
If it is the springs/ gears etc which are dirty or worn I would recommend having it rebuilt by a local watch repairer. I had an old motometer clock
done recently, only cost $60 for new bushes, oiling etc. Pat.
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This is right. I suspect the change to 12v electrics must instantly blow the fuse link (which is good and easily fixed). If you look carefully you
will see the fuse link which may just appaer as two connection points which look like they should have something soldered to them but they dont. You
can test the clock by simply connecting those two points with a bit of wire and attaching a 6v source (not 9V) to the main connection and the case.
As said above, you will notice that the clock works by the solenoid pushing a cog which re-winds the clock by retensioning the hair spring frequently.
Other than that mechanical element, the clock is an old fashioned mechanical clock that requires very occasional maintenance by a watchmaker (don't
spray WD40 in there!) and re-adjustment to remain accurate. Getting the clock working is really not that hard. I am not sure about how to use the
12v supply most of now run to work the original clock because I'm not very knowledgable about electrics. I presume a small transformer dropping the
voltage from 12 to 6 v would be the idea but we need an electrician to say how this is safely done? I also presume the fuse should be actually
replaced with a fuse rather than simply shorting the link but I'm not sure what sort of fuse to use. I doubt whether a 12 v solenoid of the correct
dimensions would be available. Hope that helps.
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VW-VARIANT-L
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| posted on June 25th, 2008 at 02:30 PM |
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I would try manually triggering the solenoid to see if the mechanicals work and agree not to use WD40 or similar lubricants to the mechanism. Based on
past posts on other forums by watch collectors/ repairers the lubricant and location points needs to be specific, otherwise the excess attracts more
dust and friction in the long run and faster wear.
The fuseable link can be replaced by old fashioned fuse wire ( most new fuses are flick switches), ? from electricial supply stores.
An inline resistor to reduce the current can be used ( the circuit is only on for less than a second each minute) but I'm not sure what ohm.
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1500S
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| posted on June 25th, 2008 at 05:56 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ghiaguy
| Quote: | Originally
posted by VW-VARIANT-L
First step would be to connect it to power. If it is the original 62 clock it will be 6v ( have you converted your car to 12 V ??), it is easy to use
a standard 6V Dolphin torch battery or one of the small 9V rectangular batteries to the spade terminal and grounding the case. If it makes a single
"click" sound the internal solenoid is atleast working. These clocks are "mechanical" and the solenoid retensions the spring every 60-90 seconds.
To check the internals, remove the little bolts which hold the rear white plastic cover casing. One of the most common problems is a blown internal
fuse link, which can be resoldered. You can also test the mechanicals by manually activating the solenoid to see if it ticks ( will stop after 60-90
seconds ).
If it is the springs/ gears etc which are dirty or worn I would recommend having it rebuilt by a local watch repairer. I had an old motometer clock
done recently, only cost $60 for new bushes, oiling etc. Pat.
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This is right. I suspect the change to 12v electrics must instantly blow the fuse link (which is good and easily fixed). If you look carefully you
will see the fuse link which may just appaer as two connection points which look like they should have something soldered to them but they dont. You
can test the clock by simply connecting those two points with a bit of wire and attaching a 6v source (not 9V) to the main connection and the case.
As said above, you will notice that the clock works by the solenoid pushing a cog which re-winds the clock by retensioning the hair spring frequently.
Other than that mechanical element, the clock is an old fashioned mechanical clock that requires very occasional maintenance by a watchmaker (don't
spray WD40 in there!) and re-adjustment to remain accurate. Getting the clock working is really not that hard. I am not sure about how to use the
12v supply most of now run to work the original clock because I'm not very knowledgable about electrics. I presume a small transformer dropping the
voltage from 12 to 6 v would be the idea but we need an electrician to say how this is safely done? I also presume the fuse should be actually
replaced with a fuse rather than simply shorting the link but I'm not sure what sort of fuse to use. I doubt whether a 12 v solenoid of the correct
dimensions would be available. Hope that helps.
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In my "try it and see what happens" there was no mention of WD 40! WD 40 has a lubricant added to the solvent and could cause more woes as we all
should know. I suggested CRC but of course didn't elaborate on the variety I used. The one to use to clean/loosen up that 40 year old lubricant
which has dried out is CRC circuit board and contact cleaner which DOESN'T contain any lubricant. Once you give it the spray you
will soon see if the mechanism comes back to life. You can THEN carefully put a couple of minute drops of very light machine oil on the gears for
lubrication.
No doubt this one may have been cooked with the wrong voltage but if the link is still intact, try the cleaning method. That's what the clock
repairer will do first off.
DH
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gellecan
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| posted on June 27th, 2008 at 08:55 PM |
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Thank you all for help guys i will try the crc trick over the weekend and let you now how it went
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grumble
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| posted on June 28th, 2008 at 09:25 AM |
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I use a company called Namiiss in Carrington (Newcastle)for all my electrical and speedo repairs,they have a good repair record . The phone No is 4961
2438. If the other guys advice doesn't work give them a call. good luck. My clock was working the last time I ran it but it used to give a little
grrrrr every now and then which didn't appear to worry it.
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 65busser
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| posted on June 28th, 2008 at 09:43 AM |
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If you're stuck we have a guy here in Melbourne who does our instrument repairs and reco's. He puts a switch on the wire to the clock so you can
turn it off when not in use. Saves the mechanism.
Brad
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bushed
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 posted on June 28th, 2008 at 12:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by gellecan
how can i tell if it still works
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watch it..
want any vw bits old but like me, Made in Germany!!!
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donn
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| posted on June 28th, 2008 at 04:47 PM |
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He puts a switch on the wire to the clock so you can turn it off when not in use.
Bloody hell, every time you wanted to tell the time you'd hafta reset it.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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65busser
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| posted on June 28th, 2008 at 11:13 PM |
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| Quote: |
He puts a switch on the wire to the clock so you can turn it off when not in use.rnBloody hell, every time you wanted to tell the time you'd hafta
reset it.
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Yeah if you drove it every day you probably wouldn't need the switch. For those who don't drive their prize winners every day, they can turn the
thing on when the car's in use. Preserves a clock not known for longevity. 
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gellecan
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| posted on June 29th, 2008 at 04:22 PM |
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would not even think of a on and off switch the clock is meant to go tick tick all the time but not going tick tick yet i will give that phone no a
ring thank for the number and all the help the clock works it is all to do with the elec once again thank for all your help
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gellecan
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| posted on July 1st, 2008 at 08:34 PM |
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my clock it goin tick tick tick thank you for all your help guys
thank u very much..
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