| [ Total Views: 3641 | Total Replies: 23 | Thread Id: 70718 ] |
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on July 26th, 2008 at 05:17 PM |
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Heater into Subaru powered Bay Bus
I am seriously looking into this part of the project finally.
I want to run one heater up the front in the belly pan area, and hot air up into the original vents.
I also want to run a supplementary heater under the back seat.
I would prefer to use new stuff like as shown in a Jayair catalogue. Anyone got any ideas on which model?
Also, as the heater circuit is a bypass for the Subaru engine, does this mean I won't need a heater tap?
Or is it a bypass/ close circuit type of tap?
Does anyone think I will need an electric heater circuit water booster pump? Does the original Subaru heater circuit flow well enough?
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 Midlife crisis
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| posted on July 26th, 2008 at 05:28 PM |
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Ok I have just put a EA81 in the T3 and what we did for the heater is .
As you said the heater is on a bypass tap so when the heater is off it moves the water from side to side of the engine.
with the heater on the water goes through the heater as it goes from side to side, so we used the bypass tap from the Subie Leone donor car and set it
the same has they had it.So when I want the heater on I turn the T3's heater on and then pull the cable to turn the Subie tap on and it works the
same as in the Leone.
In a bay you would have only the cable to the Subie tap to turn the heater on.
I hope this helps
If you can't laugh at yourself you can't laugh at anyone else! Because life is to short not to LAUGH
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mackaymanx
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| posted on July 26th, 2008 at 05:36 PM |
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Have a read here about the cooling/heater circuit.
http://www.subaruvanagon.com/conversion_services_01.htm
http://www.subaruvanagon.com/tom/Cooling%20System.htm
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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pete wood
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| posted on July 26th, 2008 at 10:05 PM |
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this is the unit I have in my buggy.
they are available aftermarket from;
The Ingram Group
Ingram Corporation Pty Ltd
1/8 cooper st
Smithfield NSW
02 9604 6069
I'm not sure if the details are right but look them up and you'll be able to get what I got. Mine does both aircon and heating. You just need to run
lines for it. You can see how I did it here...
http://www.geocities.com/peterwood7310/buggyproject/buggyproject14.html
The next diary page also includes another mod I did to make it work well.
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seagull
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 01:01 AM |
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I got one for my race car out of a toyota coaster bus new from the guys that do conversions into campers . There are around three of them on the floor
in these buses .
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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Baja Wes
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 09:41 AM |
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For the rear one I think I have a Nissan Vanette rear under seat heater unit sitting around somewhere if you want it. If I can find it.
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1303Steve
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 11:33 AM |
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Hi
I had a troop carrier one under the rear seat on my old bug, it didn't pump out a lot of heat at first, but I kept recycling the air and in a short
while it made a quiet a difference.
You need to sort out the heater tap issue with a Subaru motor, maybe a 4 pipe one from a Commodore, but you would need to make it manual control? 
Steve
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pete wood
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 04:55 PM |
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I have a simple tap on mine, the water cycles round through a bridge in the heater pipes, when it's winter I turn the tap on so that allows some of
the flow to come through the pipes that run to the heater and back. Lots of old cars did this. Tap on for winter/off for summer. My switch in on the
fire wall in the rear of the car.
The great thing about this is, you can mount the heating unit wherever you want and all you need is a fan switch in the cabin. Afterall, in melbourne
you only have cold and VERY cold, so you won't need to turn the tap off very often anyway. 
Simplistically speaking, you don't really even need a proper heater element. an oil cooler with a small thermo fan on top of it would do just as good
a job. You'd just want to make sure it was cover in a little so that busy fingers couldn't touch it if their hands went near it.
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pete wood
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 05:05 PM |
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btw, this is the post from when I did it...
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=53365&page=1
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rocknrob
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 10:16 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by helbus
I am seriously looking into this part of the project finally.
I want to run one heater up the front in the belly pan area, and hot air up into the original vents.
I also want to run a supplementary heater under the back seat.
I would prefer to use new stuff like as shown in a Jayair catalogue. Anyone got any ideas on which model?
Also, as the heater circuit is a bypass for the Subaru engine, does this mean I won't need a heater tap?
Or is it a bypass/ close circuit type of tap?
Does anyone think I will need an electric heater circuit water booster pump? Does the original Subaru heater circuit flow well enough?
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Hi Pete...i know you have your radiator underneath but here is an alternative option to consider...just scroll down til you see my post...
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=70705
this works great even in this primitive form
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 kombi_kid
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Good Kid too many projects
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| posted on July 28th, 2008 at 08:09 AM |
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hey pete
give custom vw a call they where using troopy heaters mounted under the front of the car (modifying the outlets on the heater core) and then running
it into the original kombi system.
not 100% sure if they are still doing them but worth a try.
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
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pete wood
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| posted on July 28th, 2008 at 09:16 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by rocknrob
| Quote: | Originally
posted by helbus
I am seriously looking into this part of the project finally.
I want to run one heater up the front in the belly pan area, and hot air up into the original vents.
I also want to run a supplementary heater under the back seat.
I would prefer to use new stuff like as shown in a Jayair catalogue. Anyone got any ideas on which model?
Also, as the heater circuit is a bypass for the Subaru engine, does this mean I won't need a heater tap?
Or is it a bypass/ close circuit type of tap?
Does anyone think I will need an electric heater circuit water booster pump? Does the original Subaru heater circuit flow well enough?
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Hi Pete...i know you have your radiator underneath but here is an alternative option to consider...just scroll down til you see my post...
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=70705
this works great even in this primitive form
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funny stuff rob, but you're right, it would work great...not so hot
on a wet day though 
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rocknrob
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| posted on July 28th, 2008 at 10:45 AM |
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not much rain gets in here pete
[img] [/img]
and it just goes out the bottom had a warm dry run home in pouring rain last night
[img] [/img]
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on July 28th, 2008 at 03:20 PM |
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so how does your radiator work? how does the air get into it?
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rocknrob
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| posted on July 28th, 2008 at 05:54 PM |
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pete...air goes in the normal kombi ventilation grill but behind that everything has been removed...
[img] [/img]
then there is a V6 holden radiator enclosed in a plywood box...
[img] [/img]
fits in nice and snug and works extremely...air exits though the hole on the floor
[img] [/img]
there is a ventury effect which sucks massive amounts of air thru....ask Wes to explain
when i first got it working i ran it woithout a thermostat but it would never warm up...so put it back in....even now the computer never starts
the fan so i put a manual switch there just for peace of mind heheh
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pete wood
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| posted on July 29th, 2008 at 11:58 PM |
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very cool. Never would have thought of that...I mean, I never would have thought that small vent would have been enough, but with the venturi effect
it makes perfect sense. You should glass up a bunch of them and sell them as a kit. great idea there. I'll have to show this to my brother. He
wouldn't mind a conversion but doesn't want to ugly the front up of his lowlight. I also like it much better than mounting it under the car where
sticks and rocks can get it.
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1303Steve
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| posted on July 30th, 2008 at 12:08 AM |
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Hi
That radiator set-up is brilliant. Does it transfer much heat to the interior?
I only used the stock air conditioning front apron on my old bug for a radiator intake.
Steve
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rocknrob
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| posted on July 30th, 2008 at 08:11 AM |
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i had this setup going all last summer and no heat in the cabin. i have the subaru dash installed as well and the temperature gauge never ran above normal because i used a holden VN radiator which had a remote filler reservoir i just have an air bleed at the front and the
radiator cap at the back...it all works great
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rocknrob
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| posted on July 30th, 2008 at 08:16 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
very cool. Never would have thought of that...I mean, I never would have thought that small vent would have been enough, but with the venturi effect
it makes perfect sense. You should glass up a bunch of them and sell them as a kit. great idea there. I'll have to show this to my brother. He
wouldn't mind a conversion but doesn't want to ugly the front up of his lowlight. I also like it much better than mounting it under the car where
sticks and rocks can get it.
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yes those were my two concerns as well Pete...i didn't want it to look any different outside and i like to go exploring off the beaten track
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BlueV2
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| posted on August 1st, 2008 at 02:18 PM |
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Helbus, I am using this unit in my buggy. It is both a heater core and air con evaperator. It is a HOT rod air unit, but you can buy them through a
distributer in Perth.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on August 2nd, 2008 at 10:44 AM |
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For the one under the rear seat, get one from a Type 25 Caravelle (might be called a T3 over there).
Squirrel caged fan a matrix (fairly small & compact) which you can shut down the coolant flow from - I think you're aware of the probs doing this
on a Scooby lump.
My front heater is a total gash up! Alfa Romeo matrix, MDF box, 3" Blige blower & PWM module from Maplin (Radio Shack sorta place). This is
hooked into the original VW heating system and works a charm.
Instead of using a switch, pop down your local plumbing supplies & get a room thermostat (for your house). Wire this in place of the switch on the
relay. Job done for around 7UKP (over here, 14AUD)
HTH
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on June 12th, 2011 at 06:56 PM |
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I have to look into this now it is Winter again
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 5th, 2011 at 09:38 AM |
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I still have to make a camper floor so it's not mounted and I left space up to top compensate. Just the back so far. 60 series 'cruiser heater
plumbed to an ea81.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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surfbeetle
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| posted on July 27th, 2011 at 03:45 PM |
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991102?part=SUM-991102&view=1&N...
I bought one of these for my bug. I'm going to put it under the back seat. It has a fan and is a pass through so it should not cause problems with
the subaru.
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