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Author: Subject:  first start on rebuilt motor
Memberjsheppard64
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posted on December 5th, 2008 at 11:05 PM
first start on rebuilt motor


i rebuilded my motor finally put it on took me a day and a night... finally got it in.. ran the engine in.. took it for a drive... just when i got into 4th.. i felt the grinding vibration coming thru the shifter and the clutch.. this happened just this evening (friday)... i turned the car off pushed it back about a km.
oh and i tried started it the starter cranked over but the engine was sitting still

lets have a guess what's wrong and how much damage it would have caused. just need other opinion before i take the engine out and cry like a school girl

my guess.. flywheel bolt wasn't tight enough (i even broke the half in drive tighing it in)
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posted on December 5th, 2008 at 11:41 PM



Think you are right. Sometimes throw out bearing falling off or clulch pressure plate failure can make some horrible noises, but if starter sounds like it's engaging and the crank is not turning........mmm not good news!



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posted on December 5th, 2008 at 11:58 PM



yes on that note...

the answer will be reveal saturday night along with delicious hurtful photo would the crank still be ok?

stay tuned for the answer
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posted on December 6th, 2008 at 12:01 AM



maybe crank broken in half:(..........

but hey, could be better news:D
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posted on December 6th, 2008 at 12:33 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by jsheppard64

my guess.. flywheel bolt wasn't tight enough (i even broke the half in drive tighing it in)


That'd be my guess too, but hope for your sake it isn't.

For next time get yourself a good 3/4 inch drive socket and bar... the gland nut needs to be 254 ft/lb, which is A LOT more than a 1/2 inch drive will safely/regularly tolerate.




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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 12:36 AM



the answer is...
flywheel gland nut.
i broke another 1/2" getting it in.. so i got my dad to do the cave man's way which was weld the socket onto the 1 1/4 3mm thick and used that...
since i got the cheater bar extended it to 1 yard (3ft)
tightened it as hard as i could by hand and then i (50kg... 110oddlbs) stood on the end of the bar so by the definition i've got 330ft lbs on the bolt
but then i kinda jump on it a bit just to be sure..
so i guess i won't really need the proper 3/4" drive I got my own custom made 1/1/4 drive:smilegrin:

it wasn't fun the second time :(
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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 12:40 AM



here're some photos
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/40/l_0139e1fd6a3a48e99d5773ce1283d03e.jpg

notice the bell housing was grinded by the flywheel teeth
not good but could have been worse

the engine that cost me over $1000
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/50/l_230d85841bea42079823c09b11366c41.jpg
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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 02:00 AM



too tight, eh?



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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 11:27 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by hellbugged
maybe crank broken in half:(..........

but hey, could be better news:D


funny that, i found out thro experience they'll still run even with a broken crank
will just get u home if its not to far but with a nice sewing machine note to it tho :crazy:
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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 02:40 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
Quote:
Originally posted by hellbugged
maybe crank broken in half:(..........

but hey, could be better news:D


funny that, i found out thro experience they'll still run even with a broken crank
will just get u home if its not to far but with a nice sewing machine note to it tho :crazy:


yeah, mine turned over like a rocket on the starter.......then trying to turn the motor over with the fan belt, still had loads of compression...........i hoped it was the flywheel loose too, until the begining of teardown revieled several holes in the top of the crank case :fakesniff:
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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 04:48 PM



mm when the flywheel came off the oil kinda splashed into the clutch plate and now my clutch slips... and smokes

also does anyone knows sort of jets i shoulc run on a progressive? it puffs smoke 3000+ rpm

i got main 130 127
air corrector 160 150

and the shop doesn't have anything smaller well.. in stock that is
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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 06:55 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by jsheppard64
mm when the flywheel came off the oil kinda splashed into the clutch plate and now my clutch slips... and smokes

also does anyone knows sort of jets i shoulc run on a progressive? it puffs smoke 3000+ rpm

i got main 130 127
air corrector 160 150

and the shop doesn't have anything smaller well.. in stock that is


did you clean it all with "clutch and pressure plate" aerosol?
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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 10:00 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by jsheppard64
also does anyone knows sort of jets i shoulc run on a progressive? it puffs smoke 3000+ rpm

i got main 130 127
air corrector 160 150




When i ran my prog it was something like
Primary / Secondary
Idles 50 / 55
Mains 130 / 135
Airs 185 / 180 - could have been bigger. TOO long ago

What do you mean it puffs smoke
If it was rich it would back fire
lean it would sneeze

Your secondary main should be larger than primary main by one size

I reckon your airs are WAY to small - ie too rich.
Remember these do air not fuel

Have a read hear

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm 

and here

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/jetting.htm 




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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 10:05 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by jsheppard64
here're some photos
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/40/l_0139e1fd6a3a48e99d5773ce1283d03e.jpg

]


just asking

Is the plate and rubber seperating on the left hand siide of the left hand engine mount??




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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 10:35 PM



thanks for the jets info

it's possible that the rubber may have been cracked.. somehow probably have to replace it when i have the clutch pressure plate done :(
maybe next pay spend it all on the car :(
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posted on December 7th, 2008 at 11:06 PM



New engine mounts are cheap :)



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posted on December 8th, 2008 at 12:59 PM



i know that i was just making this face >> :(
because engine removal wasn't so effortless
and that bolt that goes thru from starter motor out behind flywheel where u have to put the nut in always piss me off.. last time i did it i taped it in so the bolt doesn't get pushed back while i'm screwing the nut in :)
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posted on December 18th, 2008 at 09:50 PM



so i replaced the engine mounts cleaned the clutch plate and now the driveline is good...
and i thought while i have it out i'll adjust the tappets coz it was rattling since the first start. adjusted it to haynes manual it was like .25 something rather can't remember..put the engine back in went for a drive... n' it still rattles. so next day adjusted them again just to check went for another drive still rattles
i couldn't take it so i adjusted so it to like 0.04 and omg it still rattles...
what could it be?? follower clearence was 1.4 mm when i had the case splitted
it gets really annoying and it makes me think that something is going to go wrong and i'd have to tow the car home
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posted on December 18th, 2008 at 10:06 PM



I hope they are the old engine mounts...

the left one doesn't look too good...

Yes, the Gland nut needs to be done up with a 3/4 drive socket and bar plus 3ft or 1 metre of pipe over the bar
and swing on it, jump on it etc...

I snapped off My Sons New Sidchrome 1/2 inch drive bar
trying to undo it.... lol

You can buy a product called "Brakleen" not sure of the spelling but it will clean up the clutch plate...

LEE



PS: the marks in the bellhousing from the flywheel teeth won't hurt it...




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posted on December 18th, 2008 at 10:16 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
I hope they are the old engine mounts...

the left one doesn't look too good...

Yes, the Gland nut needs to be done up with a 3/4 drive socket and bar plus 3ft or 1 metre of pipe over the bar
and swing on it, jump on it etc...

I snapped off My Sons New Sidchrome 1/2 inch drive bar
trying to undo it.... lol




the problem with 1/2" drive and all the other drives are removable from socket. i fixed that problem in my drive.. it was a 1/2" with the socket on it the 1/2" was a custom made (the shaft was made out of an old drive shaft and all the spline was gone lol and i welded the socket on to the shaft and it had never since broken again : )
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posted on March 12th, 2009 at 04:00 PM
Vacuum


before the engine rebuild i got about 20 ins/Hg of vac idling
it was standard 1600 with progressive carb
and now i got about 10 ins/Hg idling
could this be the result of the cam and the ratio rockers?
i did check for the leak in the manifold and there's no leak anywhere

is this something to worry about? or it's the consequence of the cam??


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