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posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 09:24 PM
EJ20 Turbo motor connections
Looking for some help from the subi gurus-
It's been over 18 months since I've stripped this motor down and now that I'm finalally back into it I'm not 100% sure on where everything
goes.
Motor is 94 wrx aus delivered if that makes any difference.
I've chopped and reversed the water inlet, flipped the inlet manifold around and movedthe turbo just to complicate things.
Pipe of the water jacket (k) I'm gessing this went to a heater?
Vacuum lines (b and C) off the inlet manifold and the top of the throttle body. If guessing one of these goes to the turbo- is the other just tee'd
off it?
this is the vac line off the turbo- guessing it joins to b or c?
(K) I'm guessing this is a crank angle sensor, it's bigger than the one on the head. Which bolt hole?
I've got a bunch of hoses left over;
I'm guessing three was a water supply for the turbo (from D) and the rest were power steering and heater stuff?
(f)water pipe, at the rear of the block. Not sure on this one.
Under the throttle body,connect I to H and J to G?
Finally, connecting up the turbo, I'm assuming L is the water return for the turbo (the bottom drain) and the banjo fittings N and M are the to the
banjo fittings on the side of the turbo ? sound right? which is which? D is the water supply to the top of the turbo?
Any help greatly appreciated, Yes I did take some pics before I tore in to this thing, but didn't get any detailed shots after the alt, power
steering and aircon were stripped off- d'oh!
liam66
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posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 09:27 PM
Also (as if I didn't have enough odds and ends!) haven't gopt the breathers from the rocker covers connected- guessing they can just go directly to
PCV valve G?
Brad
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posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 09:36 PM
Dude that thing is very red.
I will start on the easy ones first:
K is the knock sensor and it bolts to the block near f on the small round flat area. Make sure you remove the paint as it need to earth.
K is also the heater supply line and must be plumbed back into the thermostat housing where it would have gone
h is a water line to heat your intake manifold and make it run better, it goes into the cooling manifold.
A lot of your rubber hoses are from the tappet covers breathers, crank breather etc.
If you ring Custom Vee Dub and ask them real nice they have the exact same engine going into a Notch at the moment and the engine is still fully
dressed. Eileen might be able to snap a heap of pictures and send them to you. Most of that stuff will need pictures to explain.
Also be VERY VERY carefull of painting stuff like you have, the EJ REALLY REALLY like a godo earth and your sensors might be in for a rough time with
paint everywhere.
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posted on March 24th, 2009 at 01:05 AM
replace the factory water hoses , it will save you a motor. I have a list off all the hoses you need
7 is the crank breather, the S shaped one goes to the PCV valve under the trottle body
L is the drain for the turbo , this needs to drain back from the turbo
4 is the breather line from the post turbo rubber bend
2 & 3 rocker cover vents
6 ICV valve ( bad photo )
Did you have a look at your OEM turbo lines ? any restrictors fitted to them ( or ) in side the turbo threaded entry ?
Looking at your turbo your plasic covers are going to melt as well, get a turbo bag
Like brad said , you need good clean earths , remove the paint from the pad were the knock unit goes
be sure to get the oil pressure up be for you start this
+ 1 closed deck block
what turbo is that ? TDO4 ?
grey injectors ?
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posted on March 24th, 2009 at 07:48 PM
Ok, you got a bit of connecting to do!
Just to add:
a - line from turbo need to go to the wastegate solenoid valve, this is normally not on the motor but on the car, as with my engine, i didnt get one
and had to get one elsewhere. Also from the T peice, this would go to a 2port wastegate solenoid (i think these where more tha case in later models),
whereas my 94 liberty (and other 94 wrx's) seem to run the 3 port solenoid where the line from the wastegate actuator, the turbo compressor outlet go
to the solenoid as well as venting to the air box.
the three vacuum ports together on the top of the manifold (? b c) go to the MAP sensor (via exhchange solenoid), the fuel regulator and blow off
valve (air bypass valve).
hose 1 went from the turbo to the coolant tank/radiator cap
hose three (coolant) i think went from the turbo to the engine (possibly m), which now looks like you've taken care by the braded lines, are the
braided lines run for coolant and oil, cos it looks like you got one connected to the oil and one coolant. I have N as oil feed to turbo, and m being
one of the coolant lines from the turbo. L is the oil drain from the turbo back into the sump, if you have moved the turbo you would have to block
this and put in a new drain into the sump beloe where the turbo sits.
6 is the hose to the idle valve (ICV) from the air intake pipe before the turbo which connects to the same place as 7 which is the breathers on the
rocker covers.
I have a fair collection of photos from my EJ20T strip down and rebuild. If you want I can zip 'em up and email..
Sharbuilt Beach buggy with Subaru 2L Turbo
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liam66
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 08:44 PM
Thanks guys that s awesome, I recken I can work through most of them now.
Quote:
Originally
posted by seagull
Did you have a look at your OEM turbo lines ? any restrictors fitted to them ( or ) in side the turbo threaded entry ?
Looking at your turbo your plasic covers are going to melt as well, get a turbo bag
Like brad said , you need good clean earths , remove the paint from the pad were the knock unit goes
be sure to get the oil pressure up be for you start this
+ 1 closed deck block
what turbo is that ? TDO4 ?
grey injectors ?
Seagul; Earths won't be a drama, Whats +1 closed deck block mean ? I thought closed decks were the late 2.5 litre aftermarket blocks?
Yes it's a tdo4L turbo off a later car, the tdo5h that came with the motor had some play in the shaft. Bit deceptive in the photo, but the turbo is a
fair distance from the block.
Wont the standard grey injectors keep up with TD04- I'm only running a standard computer.
I've got the original rubber lines off the turbo- so I'll reuse them, restrictors and all.
Ratbug- that would be awesome to get some detailed photos. Let me know what I need to do. I didn't get a wastegate sonoid valve with the car- If i'm
running aftermaket plumb back solonoid will I still need one?
Brad, thanks. Yes it's bright, it's actually straight orange tinter- don't think I'd want to be near it with a hangover.
seagull
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 11:25 PM
Early RS turbo blocks are closed deck and year dates 1994 , see the # lines around the case near the stater motor. Closed deck is the water acket
around the bore of the motor ( the block surface of the motor ) , with a closed deck the motor can run more boost & the wall of the baore does not
move about. Metal head gaskets are also used , how ever I would say your are not.The TD05h is first of the STI motors & are quite a good motor . A
V2 sti came out with grey injectors , TD05H , but had better pistions and rods & the red manifold + a higher boost ecu
early Motors with a TD04 do not have good pistions & rods and as a rule take less boost
what size is the rear turbo housing on the TD05H ? your looking for a number ( 16 ? ) 18 ( or ) 20 , its in side the cast iron housing out let to the
motor side.
The TD04 will keep up with the stock ecu , how ever you would have less power over all . I hate them !
I have a VF23 sti turbo here , it came off my GC8 RA STI , the front wheel has lost a blade . The front wheel & housing you have should fit this
turbo I have here . you will then have a good TD05 ( 18 ) , this would be the way to go.
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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 05:46 PM
Yeah, you will need the wastegate solenoid, pressure sensor and exchange solenoid!
Private message me your email address and i can email you photos (10meg at a time), or give me your address and i can burn them onto CD and post them
to you.
Sharbuilt Beach buggy with Subaru 2L Turbo
Thunderanch Riot with Subaru 2L Turbo
Manxter with FA20turbo Click here for wiring looms
