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Author: Subject:  TIght fit gearbox question
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posted on March 25th, 2009 at 01:53 PM
TIght fit gearbox question


Hi All,
I dropped the new box in last night and it is really close to the frame horns, like touching. I have been told just to squish them down but are interested how others have got around this. Anyone?
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http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f60/turbo54/Gearbox-1.jpg




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posted on March 25th, 2009 at 03:56 PM



mark the areas and remove box apply a little heat and tap an indent to have clearence



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posted on March 25th, 2009 at 05:27 PM



hi t54, is that a type 1 irs trans u putting in, it looks like type 1,um... but i thought type 1 would fit without any mods. i ask cause i trying to put a 091 into my bug. regards grogy
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posted on March 25th, 2009 at 07:15 PM



Heat em up and break out the hammer and create clearance.



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posted on March 25th, 2009 at 09:11 PM



a BIG hammer..........if your taking the body off again, wait till then so to have a good swing at it
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posted on March 25th, 2009 at 09:15 PM



Cut a nice scallop and plate with heavier gauge steel. IRS pans have a more slender and weaker fork in this area, guess that was obvious tho.



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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 05:34 AM



from the pic it looks like a stock bug box on the outside so where is it hitting

you are better off with clearenceing the gearbox to chassis as it wont allow any movement or twist best off having some movement or you will get breakage

looks like Kombi output drive flanges ??




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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 08:07 AM



CV flanges need clearance to frame horns



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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 08:30 AM



Your right matberry,
Clearance issues are the CV Flanges, the box is a stock case, albins gears, quaife LSD and kombi CV Flanges.
I am running kombi CV's and axles so I think when I bolt it all up I will have issues.
Looks like it is body and motor out once again. Is it better to knock them down or cut and weld in a sections like Matberry has suggested?
Anyone have any pics so i can see how much I should knock it down?
Thanks for all your help.
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 08:38 AM



99% are just wacked by a hammer. You only need about 10mm, but if you have big hp and no extra framehorn support it's better not to weaken this area.



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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 09:17 AM



I have 2 bars that go up into the corners under the rear parcel shelf. A bit like a kafer brace minus the cross bar and not on a angle. This will tie into a cage if I eventually do it. The car should have about 300hp. Has anyone got any pics of welded ones.,
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 02:27 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Cut a nice scallop and plate with heavier gauge steel.


Don't just bash it down, It would be a shame on such a nice car.
Do it properly.




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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 04:29 PM



Quote:

Don't just bash it down, It would be a shame on such a nice car.

Do it properly.





yes usea little heat anda nice hammer n dolly you wont notice it as much and a coat of paint will make it factory




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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 07:13 PM



it looks like your gear box banana mounts aint thick enough ???



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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 07:48 AM



Bannana Mounts?
Can you please explain a little more?
T54




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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 08:47 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Turbo54
Bannana Mounts?
Can you please explain a little more?
T54


I had a buggy and the two bannana shape mounts under gear box was soft , causing the drive shafts to hit at times.
I think mine was a IRS pan it may of already had a dish in the arms and the seems along the side of the arms had extra welding along them as well .




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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 10:22 AM



Do you mean like this?
Ian, this is a swinger pan with IRS welded in. Still a little unclear on what your saying. Are you saying there flexing or the metal was just soft?
Do you mean the frame horns when or the actual mounts when you say bannanas? It we are talking mounts I have got a big box mount and nolethane nose mount and a intermediate mount as well as a set of bars with hiem joints going up in the back of the car. I don't think the frame horns are going to budge.
thanks
Heath

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f60/turbo54/Gearbox-1_Welded.jpg




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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 11:06 AM



the two under the gear box at motor.the rubber was soft
I think they welded along the seem of frame horns
to make it stronger.As i think the frame horns crack where the heater cable come out.




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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 11:29 AM



Swingaxle pans do not have the clearance there, when converted to IRS,
so I doubt it is the banana mounts being soft or low.

That is the way to do it, Heath,
but perhaps not that much clearance.

I would make jusy enough to fit a 930 CV(plus about 3 to 5mm) for future upgrades,
and weld carefully a little at a time to prevent the fork pulling upward as the weld cools.
(refering to the new piece to close in your cut-out)




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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 11:32 AM



Thanks everyone,
Were would we be without photoshop?
I think i might tack brace it before cutting and welding and then after cooling cut the bracing back off and bolt up the intermediate mount.
That way it shouldn't move to much. Thanks again everyone.
Heath
T54




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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 02:30 PM



Man, I thought you had cut it already, and was wondering how you got the angle grinder in there without pulling the box.:lol::lol::lol::dork:



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posted on March 27th, 2009 at 02:33 PM



Photoshop?

And I thought you did some really nice welds.........hahah




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