| [ Total Views: 770 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 77344 ] |
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 Andy
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on June 21st, 2009 at 10:48 PM |
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Getting a type 3 ready for the road again (BEARINGS)
Anyone have any thoughts on what to do paint/rust preventer wise to get a car back on the road.
I have a sound unrestored late fast back that has been in storage for ~7 years. I'm going through it all mechanically to make sure it will be a
reliable daily driver again.
I have given it a good clean inside and out to check the body over and this car doesnt have all the usual type 3 rust, I was planning to restore it
one day, but it needs to go back on the road now for a few years.
Any advice on what can be done to prevent it deteriorating while it's back on the road?
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fastyman66
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| posted on June 21st, 2009 at 11:33 PM |
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Take the panels off and have a real good look, there will be rust and it should be repaired as it only will become a greater headache years down the
track.
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Andy
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| posted on June 23rd, 2009 at 12:01 AM |
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Cheers,
I'll try and do the guards one at a time when I get a chance.
Just not sure what's the best stuff to put on? Particularly inside guards, under window rubbers and around the pan-body join line.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on June 23rd, 2009 at 08:30 AM |
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Wire-brush back any visible rust under panels then apply red oxide primer, then Tectyl cavity wax
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Andy
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Andy's Adventures
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| posted on June 23rd, 2009 at 11:03 PM |
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Cheers.
Is the black under body stuff (labelled as sound deadener) any good? Maybe tectyl first then the black stuff over the top?
Anyone know a good way to either remove or fill with rust preventer the stupid foam stuff that causes the rust in the rear pilars?
Not keen to remove the roof lining just yet, which is the best access point.
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Andy
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Andy's Adventures
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| posted on July 8th, 2009 at 12:06 AM |
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OK, the type 3 is getting closer (slowly).
Have decided to go all out in doing it up as the car deserves it.
All brakes/hoses are now new or reco'd.
Front suspension and steering all done. (Is there any way to re-grease steering box?)
CV's are fine and have new grease installed, GB has been sent out for a once over.
Am also fitting new bearings all round.
And there's the problem, how do you remove a stuck rear axle??
Front is all fine, cleaned up and ready to re-install. One side on the rear is apart and ready for new bearings.
The other side though apears to have one hub stuck on the axle. Not sure if it's due to damage on the axle or the hub is rusted on.
Either way it won't budge. There is no movement at all between the hub and axle. Bashing the axle out will not move it. I have installed a puller on
the hub (don't dare to tighten that too much), and have been tapping the hub and axle. Still no movement.
I have soaked in penetrating oil and will try again in a day or so.
Oh, there is no rust anywhere visible, and the side that came appart is nicely lavered in grease, so I would be surprised if this one is rusty. So how
likely is spline damage on a rear axle?
So any other ideas on removing a stuck hub? Would be nice to fit new bearings now an not have to have this as a looming job in a year or two.
My next option is a bigger hammer.......
It's a '73 if that make any difference, but I assume there were no real changes in that area from '69 to the end.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on July 8th, 2009 at 12:18 PM |
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spline damage will make it looser, not tighter: Penetrene stuff for a day or three then a bigger hammer 
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Andy
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| posted on July 8th, 2009 at 09:53 PM |
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Cheers VWCool.
Managed to get the flange off tonight (I think the loud swearing helped the best). Definitely siezed with rust 
The next challenge is the inner race of the bearing and spacer that are also frozen on!!
Maybe some more swearing tomorrow night will have it off!!
Am just worried about damaging something to get it out, as it's basically the inner bearing taking all the load of hammering now.
So much for a quick simple job to replace the bearings...............
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